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Old 07-28-2010, 10:04 PM   #57
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I chose to use Prodex because it doesn't hold any water, unlike the pink stuff. Also, it doesn't have the little bubbles like some silver type insulation. From what I've read here, the bubbles can pop if they get really hot & the insulation won't be effective. The Prodex is very thin & very easy to work with. I used it on the bottom of my trailer. I didn't reinsulate the interior. If I did, I absolutely would use it again there. I did notice a difference after changing the insulation. I ran the a/c while camping a couple of weeks ago & the temp went all the way down to 59 in there! Never before was it that cool. I used the "low" setting after that! Good luck with your decision.
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:37 PM   #58
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I'm really happy to see this thread coming back to life just as I am getting ready to insulate! Thanks to Malconium and Boatdoc for documenting their processes.

I bought a locally available double foil/double bubble product. I'm planning to use 1/2" foam/dfdb/1/2 foam/dfdb held to the outer skin using PL300.

The foil surfaces make a huge difference since they reflect radiant heat that has been conducted by the skins. Judging by the condition of my old fiberglass, having a moisture proof, rodent UN-friendly material is important.

Ian
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:03 PM   #59
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prodex redux

If it does not hold any water, where does the water go? I just opened another pannel and the old batting is dry dry dry. is it possible that the metal foil on the prodex would cause more condensation? And isn't the foil made to reflect light? which in the case of sunlight also brings the heat.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:51 PM   #60
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Here's some info on radiant barriers.
Radiant barrier - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 07-29-2010, 05:48 PM   #61
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http://www.2hsc.com/residential/manu...vm_physics.pdf
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:36 PM   #62
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The reflective aspect of the foil is extremely important even though the foil is between the skins. While the skins are opaque to radiant energy in the visible spectrum they do let through radiant energy in the invisible spectrum - specifically in the infrared part of the spectrum. Putting an air gap on both sides of the foil reflective surface helps the foil to do a much better job of reflecting radiant energy. This is true whether it is heat that is trying to come in from outside or if it is heat trying to get out from the inside.

I don't seem to have mentioned it here in this thread but I added small drain holes at the bottom of my wall cavities in case water did get into the walls. I drilled one or two holes about 1/4" or so in diameter at the bottom of each cavity and glued some screen over them to keep bugs from being able to crawl in. I have no idea if the technique really works but it seemed like a good idea at the time. This should give water an alternative route to exit the wall other than by running on on the floor.

I actually used Reflectix foil insulation which I believe I bought at Lowes - that's what they carry. I liked the sound of the Prodex variety and would probably consider using it instead if I were to do this again. The principle difference seems to be that there is a layer of foam insulation between the layers of foil rather than a layer of bubbles. That seems like a good idea to me. As I recall one of the forum members found that Prodex could be purchased through the Internet at a better price than what I was paying for my insulation at Lowes. That is a good thing too.

Malcolm
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Old 08-03-2010, 09:02 PM   #63
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I am all about saving money where and when I can.........I work for Sysco foods and they use a lot of different packing stuff to keep things frozen. The other day the cleaning guys came by my shop and had what looks like buble wrap made of foil and they had a lot of it. Being thrify (cheap) like I am I brought it home with a bunch of 1.5 inch styrofoam. I was thinking (which tends to get me in trouble) why not glue the buble foil to the wall then use the pink stuff then put another layer of the buble foil over the pink. I also thought about using some of the styrofoam too. The only reason I would use it is because its free but I wonder if is a waste even if it is free.
I dont quite understand what you guys mean by "air gap". Would my plan not leave the "air gap"?
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Old 08-03-2010, 11:02 PM   #64
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The air gap...

What I mean by the air gap is that the foil works best when there is space between the foil surface and the inner or outer skin. This keeps the foil surface from being in contact with the skin so that less heat is transferred to the foil by conduction. It also lets the foil do a better job of reflecting the radiant energy. So the idea is to suspend the foil in the middle of the wall cavity and leave an air gap or space on both the inner and outer sides of the foil. This means that the foil is about 3/4" from the outer skin and from the inner skin since the wall cavity is about 1-1/2 in overall size. The narrow foam strips that have been mentioned in this thread are used as spacers around the edges of a given part of the wall cavity to hold the foil suspended at the mid point between the two skins. It is not necessary or desirable to have foam everywhere if that forces the foil to be in direct contact with the inner or outer skins. If the wall cavity is full of foam you might as well leave out the foil.

I hope that helps...

Malcolm
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Old 08-04-2010, 05:38 PM   #65
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Thanks for explaing the air gap for me. I guess it just makes more sence for me to just use the pink stuff I have laying around already.
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Old 08-05-2010, 12:07 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uoshane View Post
Thanks for explaing the air gap for me. I guess it just makes more sence for me to just use the pink stuff I have laying around already.

The reason I decided not to use the pink stuff was the amount and smell of the rodent feces contained within it. It's a home for rats, mice and snakes. The foil/ foam/ foil is not hospitable as a nice fiberglass nest is. If money is the concern I can tell you it was less than $350.00 for my safari, and that was with 2 layers of Prodex.
Best to you,
Rich the Viking
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Old 08-05-2010, 07:53 PM   #67
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Can one of you that used this strip method for the air gap post some pics or post the link of a pic so I can see how you did it? I kinda get the idea by reading but I am better wih pics.
Did you use the Prodex to make the strips?
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Old 08-06-2010, 06:49 AM   #68
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I used 5/8" thick semi-rigid foam insulation cut in about 1" wide strips glued to the subfloor. Have not got to the walls yet will do the same there. Glue the strips to the inside of the exterior skin and the the Prodex to the strips. Very much like Uwe did here, look at post #24 http://www.airforums.com/forums/f39/...n-27759-2.html I have seen where some have actually cut strips of the Prodex to use as the strips, I wanted more air space so chose to use the semi-rigid foam.
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Old 08-06-2010, 02:48 PM   #69
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Thank you very much! It makes much more sence to me now. I think I will try this method!
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Old 01-25-2012, 08:34 PM   #70
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So after doing lots of reading and researching I have decided to use Prodex too. My question is for malconium. What is the result of all your hard work? Have you had her in the summer heat or the freezing wither weather yet? I plan on full timing in my AS and live in extreme climates!! Also when you install 2 layers of Prodex is there any extra room on the inside? Would I be better installing 3 layers or will that ruin the benefit of the air gap??


Thanks for any replys!
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