Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 03-06-2007, 02:07 PM   #43
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Simple trick...

I was able to come up with a very simple trick for mounting my top-side skins. I thought it would be a good idea to post it in a seperate thread since it does not have anything directly to do with foil insulation and I would like people that can use the tip to be able to find it more easily. I titled it as follows:

Simple trick for installing upper inner skins...

See what you think.

By the way I made an interesting observation about the red felt. It was fairly easy to tell which holes in my skins had metal ribs behind them because I could generally see the red through the hole.

Malcolm
__________________

__________________
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2007, 08:46 AM   #44
1 Rivet Member
 
1972 27' Overlander
Everett , Washington
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 11
Malcolm,

I'm considering using this insulating technique when I get to that point in my Overlander restoration. My question is with gluing foam strips to the exterior skins and then gluing the foil to the strips, how easy will it be to replace exterior skins? I have several exterior skins to replace to make it "perfect", but probably won't have the money to replace them all at this point(they are the front and rear compound curve pieces). I'm going to replace the worst of them now, but then need to put my limited resources to doing the interior.

I guess the question also applies to anyone needing to repair their coach after any mishap! I do like this insulating approach, but I might have to think of an alternate way of providing the airspace without gluing to the exterior skins...............

Just thinking out loud here, but could you somehow tape or sandwich the foil within the body ribs? I don't know what the profile of these ribs are and whether the shape would lend itself to this. Do you have any thoughts on this?

Thank you,
__________________

__________________
Derek
1972 27' Overlander
Derek D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2007, 09:38 AM   #45
Rivet Master
 
SmokelessJoe's Avatar
 
1976 Argosy 24
now being enjoyed by Heath and Mary in , Vermont
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,422
The butyl tape truck body builders use would be perfect to line the ribs before your re-rivet the panels on.

Not only will it act as a non-conducting thermo block, it will sound deaden. It is also very “sticky”, which will help to hold the sheets while you rivet.

You can see it being used here, post #132, in a somewhat similar application:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...-18448-10.html


Sergei
__________________
SmokelessJoe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2007, 01:01 PM   #46
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derek D
Malcolm,

I'm considering using this insulating technique when I get to that point in my Overlander restoration. My question is with gluing foam strips to the exterior skins and then gluing the foil to the strips, how easy will it be to replace exterior skins? I have several exterior skins to replace to make it "perfect", but probably won't have the money to replace them all at this point(they are the front and rear compound curve pieces). I'm going to replace the worst of them now, but then need to put my limited resources to doing the interior.

I guess the question also applies to anyone needing to repair their coach after any mishap! I do like this insulating approach, but I might have to think of an alternate way of providing the airspace without gluing to the exterior skins...............

Just thinking out loud here, but could you somehow tape or sandwich the foil within the body ribs? I don't know what the profile of these ribs are and whether the shape would lend itself to this. Do you have any thoughts on this?

Thank you,
Derek,

The glue that holds the foam to the outer skin would not really prevent taking a panel off. I had to take out a small portion of my insulation the other day to find and fix a new water leak. The foam strip pulled off of the plastic coating leaving it attached to the outer skin. The general idea that I started with was to provide a strip of foam on the outside and one on the inside. The glue to the outer skin basically just needs to be enough to hold the foam strip in place until you can glue on the foil. I suggest that in your case you just do some spot gluing of the outer foam strips in places where you aticipate having to replace body panels. Also use some inner foam strips. That way you can remove the body panel, fix it, and put it back without disturbing the foam and foil that much at all. Even if you were to use just outrer foam strips with foil glued to them the worst case is that the foil and foam will come out with the body panel. It would be no big deal to peel it off of the body panel and put it back in the cavity before you put the body panel back on. You could add some new foam strips glued on the inner side of the foil to help hold it in place.

I hope this helps,

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-03-2007, 04:15 AM   #47
1 Rivet Member
 
1972 27' Overlander
Billings , Montana
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 17
Images: 5
we are doing the reflective foil in ours as well, found it stayed up fairly well as putting in except used a spray adhesive on ceiling ones, did layers of 3 ...here's hoping it keeps us warm in winter... is clean and easy to put in. we were going to put 4 layers however wanted to leave the airspace, 4 would be tight behind the aluminum walls
__________________
Julie R is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2007, 08:30 AM   #48
4 Rivet Member
 
tinbender's Avatar
 
2001 16' Bambi
2013 23' International
Piedmont Region , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 358
Foam and Foil Adhesive follow up

I have read pretty much all the postings relating to installing foil insulation as I am to that point in my redo on the '72. There are many types of adhesives mentioned and in hopes of finding one that works really well and stays in place, especially in bonding the foam strips to the outer skin, I would appreciate some follow up from those who have completed this task as to how your choice of sealant is holding up.


Thanks, TB
__________________
tinbender is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2007, 08:37 PM   #49
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Unfortunately once I put the inner skins back on I can no longer tell how the adhesive is holding. I think if you are concerned about it that one thing you could do would be to add the inner foam strips or even just some short pieces here and there. My thinking here is that both the outer foam strips and the foil itself are both pretty light weight. The glue would not have to hold all that well to keep things in place. Adding some pieces of foam strip to the inner side that come up against the inner skin when it is put back in would prevent the foil and foam from moving away from the outer skin even if the glue out there did not hold in place.

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2007, 09:41 PM   #50
4 Rivet Member
 
tinbender's Avatar
 
2001 16' Bambi
2013 23' International
Piedmont Region , North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 358
Malcolm,

Now that I am into actually doing this, I think you are right about things staying fairly well intact with the addition of inner strips and things of that sort. I bought an adhesive product sold by GE as it recommended use on both foamboard and metal and it stays flexible after curing. About $2.50 a tube. I did a 2 day test run in our 100 degree temps and it held very well.

I am using 3/4 in. board so by the time I put in the foil, it looks like it will fill the cavity just about right and even if the adhesive would let go it wouldn't make much difference. Got the foam pieces cut and in place for the streetside, just waiting on the foil to be delivered. Decided to try the foil-foam-foil type, Prodex. Thanks for the input and tips.

TB
__________________
tinbender is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-20-2007, 08:27 PM   #51
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
TB,

That sounds like it should be just fine. Have fun and lets us know what you think of the Prodex foil product.

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2009, 07:15 PM   #52
New Member
 
1976 31' Sovereign
Italy Cross , Nova Scotia
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1
Insulation of Airstream

I have a 1976 International Land Yacht 31 ft. I think it had been mouse infested, so the insulation stinks. Is the only way to go, to take off the whole inner skin to replace the insulation. I have already virtually gutted the trailer, dismantled all the cabinetry. I have kept it all, but really want the ultra modern stainless steel look. I feel however, that I have to get inside the walls to clean them out. Your advice please.
__________________
jobirgheidi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2009, 10:20 PM   #53
Rivet Master
 
Wabbiteer's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
St. Paul , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,912
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 2
Cut and paste this into a new post!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jobirgheidi View Post
I have a 1976 International Land Yacht 31 ft. I think it had been mouse infested, so the insulation stinks. Is the only way to go, to take off the whole inner skin to replace the insulation. I have already virtually gutted the trailer, dismantled all the cabinetry. I have kept it all, but really want the ultra modern stainless steel look. I feel however, that I have to get inside the walls to clean them out. Your advice please.
__________________

Wabbiteer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-01-2009, 11:25 PM   #54
Rivet Master
 
Westfalia's Avatar
 
2008 27' International CCD FB
Boerne, TX / , Evergreen, CO
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 904
Images: 35
Send a message via AIM to Westfalia Send a message via Skype™ to Westfalia
Or PM a mod and have them split it into a new post for you.
__________________
Chris and Christina- Boerne, TX / Evergreen, CO - TAC TX-7
2008 27'FB Int'l Signature CCD
Westfalia is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-02-2009, 10:26 AM   #55
Got gandkids?
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
'Possum Holler , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,406
Images: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by jobirgheidi View Post
I have a 1976 International Land Yacht 31 ft. I think it had been mouse infested, so the insulation stinks. Is the only way to go, to take off the whole inner skin to replace the insulation. I have already virtually gutted the trailer, dismantled all the cabinetry. I have kept it all, but really want the ultra modern stainless steel look. I feel however, that I have to get inside the walls to clean them out. Your advice please.

But to answer your question, you will probably have to do exactly what you are proposing to do. The only way to get the smell out of my Overlander was to remove the inner walls, toss the old insulation and scrub everything down, then replace the insulation with new.

Good luck with it. Why don't you start your own thread about your restoration? We love to see how folks do it and how it turns out. Oh yeah, pictures, we love pictures!

Jim
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2010, 09:22 PM   #56
1 Rivet Member
 
1963 22' Safari
Santa Cruz , California
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 9
Prodex?

Hello,
I'm new to it all and getting ready to do the insulation in my 63 safari. I don't understand the benefit of the prodex. The reflective quality seems moot as it is between the skins. However, to put in all that time, you must think it far superior to the messy pink stuff. it also seems that may on this forum are floowing youru advice. If you would be so kind as to fill me in on why prodex is the better option, I would very much appreciate it. I am much more concerned about keeping heat out, but then perhaps a big shade structure might help that. Again, Thank you so much!
__________________

__________________
Santa Cruz is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Finally, got started ~ 53flyingcloud Cleaning, Stripping & Polishing 512 10-03-2017 11:32 PM
Backing up - Tip & tricks LI Pets Towing, Tow Vehicles & Hitches 56 08-27-2012 01:02 PM
New Owner Questions Hol & Lols 2005 and newer - Bambi all models 49 08-10-2006 08:47 PM
Replacing Black Water Tank Tamara Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 15 06-18-2002 11:45 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:43 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.