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malconium · 03-02-2007, 10:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robandzoe

Check out the 58 Sovereign fo the Road... it is coming along:

Sweet Sovereign of the Road

Rob

You unit is looking great. I gather that you are putting in all new wiring? Is your foil spaced away from the outer skin? If so you don't have very much space left for the fiberglass. My guess is that you would do just as well to leave the fiberglass out. I think the foil is most effective with a clear air gap next to it which the fiberglass would block at least some. Also 3/4" of fiberglass would have an R value of maybe 1 or so. Not all that much.

Malcolm

malconium · 03-02-2007, 10:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SmokelessJoe

Malcolm,

Just get three or four strong guys to help you. It will be faster, cheaper, easier than building, buying or renting any of these devices.

Sergei

The problem is that I have to do the different parts of the inner skin in stages rather than all in one session so it may not be all that easy to collect 3 or 4 guys just when I need them. If I can figure out a few simple things with scrap lumber I should be OK since I have enough of that around without having to buy anything else. I tend to consider things like this a bit of a challenge to see if there is a simple way that I can do it all by myself or at least with minimal help. I am still thinking about it though so we shall see and I will report back later.

Malcolm

malconium · 03-06-2007, 01:07 PM

I was able to come up with a very simple trick for mounting my top-side skins. I thought it would be a good idea to post it in a seperate thread since it does not have anything directly to do with foil insulation and I would like people that can use the tip to be able to find it more easily. I titled it as follows:

Simple trick for installing upper inner skins...

See what you think.

By the way I made an interesting observation about the red felt. It was fairly easy to tell which holes in my skins had metal ribs behind them because I could generally see the red through the hole.

Malcolm

Derek D · 03-08-2007, 07:46 AM

Malcolm,

I'm considering using this insulating technique when I get to that point in my Overlander restoration. My question is with gluing foam strips to the exterior skins and then gluing the foil to the strips, how easy will it be to replace exterior skins? I have several exterior skins to replace to make it "perfect", but probably won't have the money to replace them all at this point(they are the front and rear compound curve pieces). I'm going to replace the worst of them now, but then need to put my limited resources to doing the interior.

I guess the question also applies to anyone needing to repair their coach after any mishap! I do like this insulating approach, but I might have to think of an alternate way of providing the airspace without gluing to the exterior skins...............

Just thinking out loud here, but could you somehow tape or sandwich the foil within the body ribs? I don't know what the profile of these ribs are and whether the shape would lend itself to this. Do you have any thoughts on this?

Thank you,

SmokelessJoe · 03-08-2007, 08:38 AM

The butyl tape truck body builders use would be perfect to line the ribs before your re-rivet the panels on.

Not only will it act as a non-conducting thermo block, it will sound deaden. It is also very “sticky”, which will help to hold the sheets while you rivet.

You can see it being used here, post #132, in a somewhat similar application:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...-18448-10.html

Sergei

malconium · 03-08-2007, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Derek D

Malcolm,

I'm considering using this insulating technique when I get to that point in my Overlander restoration. My question is with gluing foam strips to the exterior skins and then gluing the foil to the strips, how easy will it be to replace exterior skins? I have several exterior skins to replace to make it "perfect", but probably won't have the money to replace them all at this point(they are the front and rear compound curve pieces). I'm going to replace the worst of them now, but then need to put my limited resources to doing the interior.

I guess the question also applies to anyone needing to repair their coach after any mishap! I do like this insulating approach, but I might have to think of an alternate way of providing the airspace without gluing to the exterior skins...............

Just thinking out loud here, but could you somehow tape or sandwich the foil within the body ribs? I don't know what the profile of these ribs are and whether the shape would lend itself to this. Do you have any thoughts on this?

Thank you,

Derek,

The glue that holds the foam to the outer skin would not really prevent taking a panel off. I had to take out a small portion of my insulation the other day to find and fix a new water leak. The foam strip pulled off of the plastic coating leaving it attached to the outer skin. The general idea that I started with was to provide a strip of foam on the outside and one on the inside. The glue to the outer skin basically just needs to be enough to hold the foam strip in place until you can glue on the foil. I suggest that in your case you just do some spot gluing of the outer foam strips in places where you aticipate having to replace body panels. Also use some inner foam strips. That way you can remove the body panel, fix it, and put it back without disturbing the foam and foil that much at all. Even if you were to use just outrer foam strips with foil glued to them the worst case is that the foil and foam will come out with the body panel. It would be no big deal to peel it off of the body panel and put it back in the cavity before you put the body panel back on. You could add some new foam strips glued on the inner side of the foil to help hold it in place.

I hope this helps,

Malcolm

Julie R · 08-03-2007, 03:15 AM

we are doing the reflective foil in ours as well, found it stayed up fairly well as putting in except used a spray adhesive on ceiling ones, did layers of 3 ...here's hoping it keeps us warm in winter... is clean and easy to put in. we were going to put 4 layers however wanted to leave the airspace, 4 would be tight behind the aluminum walls

tinbender · 08-14-2007, 07:30 AM

I have read pretty much all the postings relating to installing foil insulation as I am to that point in my redo on the '72. There are many types of adhesives mentioned and in hopes of finding one that works really well and stays in place, especially in bonding the foam strips to the outer skin, I would appreciate some follow up from those who have completed this task as to how your choice of sealant is holding up.

Thanks, TB

malconium · 08-16-2007, 07:37 PM

Unfortunately once I put the inner skins back on I can no longer tell how the adhesive is holding. I think if you are concerned about it that one thing you could do would be to add the inner foam strips or even just some short pieces here and there. My thinking here is that both the outer foam strips and the foil itself are both pretty light weight. The glue would not have to hold all that well to keep things in place. Adding some pieces of foam strip to the inner side that come up against the inner skin when it is put back in would prevent the foil and foam from moving away from the outer skin even if the glue out there did not hold in place.

Malcolm

tinbender · 08-17-2007, 08:41 PM

Malcolm,

Now that I am into actually doing this, I think you are right about things staying fairly well intact with the addition of inner strips and things of that sort. I bought an adhesive product sold by GE as it recommended use on both foamboard and metal and it stays flexible after curing. About $2.50 a tube. I did a 2 day test run in our 100 degree temps and it held very well.

I am using 3/4 in. board so by the time I put in the foil, it looks like it will fill the cavity just about right and even if the adhesive would let go it wouldn't make much difference. Got the foam pieces cut and in place for the streetside, just waiting on the foil to be delivered. Decided to try the foil-foam-foil type, Prodex. Thanks for the input and tips.

TB

malconium · 08-20-2007, 07:27 PM

TB,

That sounds like it should be just fine. Have fun and lets us know what you think of the Prodex foil product.

Malcolm

jobirgheidi · 04-01-2009, 06:15 PM

I have a 1976 International Land Yacht 31 ft. I think it had been mouse infested, so the insulation stinks. Is the only way to go, to take off the whole inner skin to replace the insulation. I have already virtually gutted the trailer, dismantled all the cabinetry. I have kept it all, but really want the ultra modern stainless steel look. I feel however, that I have to get inside the walls to clean them out. Your advice please.

Wabbiteer · 04-01-2009, 09:20 PM

Cut and paste this into a new post!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by jobirgheidi

I have a 1976 International Land Yacht 31 ft. I think it had been mouse infested, so the insulation stinks. Is the only way to go, to take off the whole inner skin to replace the insulation. I have already virtually gutted the trailer, dismantled all the cabinetry. I have kept it all, but really want the ultra modern stainless steel look. I feel however, that I have to get inside the walls to clean them out. Your advice please.

Westfalia · 04-01-2009, 10:25 PM

Or PM a mod and have them split it into a new post for you.

Jim & Susan · 04-02-2009, 09:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jobirgheidi

I have a 1976 International Land Yacht 31 ft. I think it had been mouse infested, so the insulation stinks. Is the only way to go, to take off the whole inner skin to replace the insulation. I have already virtually gutted the trailer, dismantled all the cabinetry. I have kept it all, but really want the ultra modern stainless steel look. I feel however, that I have to get inside the walls to clean them out. Your advice please.

But to answer your question, you will probably have to do exactly what you are proposing to do. The only way to get the smell out of my Overlander was to remove the inner walls, toss the old insulation and scrub everything down, then replace the insulation with new.

Good luck with it. Why don't you start your own thread about your restoration? We love to see how folks do it and how it turns out. Oh yeah, pictures, we love pictures!

Jim

Santa Cruz · 07-28-2010, 08:22 PM

Hello,
I'm new to it all and getting ready to do the insulation in my 63 safari. I don't understand the benefit of the prodex. The reflective quality seems moot as it is between the skins. However, to put in all that time, you must think it far superior to the messy pink stuff. it also seems that may on this forum are floowing youru advice. If you would be so kind as to fill me in on why prodex is the better option, I would very much appreciate it. I am much more concerned about keeping heat out, but then perhaps a big shade structure might help that. Again, Thank you so much!

Becky B. · 07-28-2010, 09:04 PM

I chose to use Prodex because it doesn't hold any water, unlike the pink stuff. Also, it doesn't have the little bubbles like some silver type insulation. From what I've read here, the bubbles can pop if they get really hot & the insulation won't be effective. The Prodex is very thin & very easy to work with. I used it on the bottom of my trailer. I didn't reinsulate the interior. If I did, I absolutely would use it again there. I did notice a difference after changing the insulation. I ran the a/c while camping a couple of weeks ago & the temp went all the way down to 59 in there! Never before was it that cool. I used the "low" setting after that! Good luck with your decision.

Canlib · 07-28-2010, 09:37 PM

I'm really happy to see this thread coming back to life just as I am getting ready to insulate! Thanks to Malconium and Boatdoc for documenting their processes.

I bought a locally available double foil/double bubble product. I'm planning to use 1/2" foam/dfdb/1/2 foam/dfdb held to the outer skin using PL300.

The foil surfaces make a huge difference since they reflect radiant heat that has been conducted by the skins. Judging by the condition of my old fiberglass, having a moisture proof, rodent UN-friendly material is important.

Ian

Santa Cruz · 07-29-2010, 12:03 PM

If it does not hold any water, where does the water go? I just opened another pannel and the old batting is dry dry dry. is it possible that the metal foil on the prodex would cause more condensation? And isn't the foil made to reflect light? which in the case of sunlight also brings the heat.