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Old 09-06-2012, 05:23 PM   #29
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El', I just love people who do "repairs" to things when they don't know what they are doing, or never think that they or someone else will have to figure out how to fix those "repairs" years later.

The wires coming out of the wall look like Romex—120 v. cable. It should have a rubber or plastic covering over two insulated wires—one white (common) and one black (hot)—and a bare copper wire that is the ground. Disconnect shore power, strip back the insulation enough to expose the wires, reconnect power, get the leads from a multimeter on them and check them for electricity when shore power is connected. If they are connected to the breakers and the breakers are on and work, you should get 120 v. between the black and white and between the black and ground wires. You can check breakers by putting checking the place on the breaker where wires are connected and the buss bar. The buss bar is behind the breakers, but can be accessed where the shore power comes to the breaker panel—it is usually a bare copper bar.

The spaghetti mess looks like 12 v. wires, some of them in a cable harness. They should be coded in various colors. While black and red usually mean hot, and white may mean common or ground, you can't be sure of that. Some are solid colors and some have a solid color and a different color stripe on them. You can trace them as best you can and see what color 12 v. wires come to the fuse panel. They may tell you what they are and whether they are hot. Sometimes a 12 v. appliance or light is grounded to the body, sometimes it has a ground wire. Also check the fuses—you can't always tell visually they are good, so get some replacements to check the wires to see if any are hot. That's assuming the converter works. You can check that when plugged into shore power and seeing if the wires coming out of the converter to the fuse panel are hot.

You need a multimeter to check both 12 v. DC and 120 v. AC. I suspect none of those wires are hot as most idiots have the sense to not leave them hanging like that when they are hot, but do not underestimate an idiot's wiring (or plumbing).

The first photo shows two 120 v. receptacles. One is installed in the wall as it should be, but the other is a surface mount and was added after the trailer was built. That shows a lot of changes were made to the wiring. It may be you'll have to remove inner panels to rewire the entire trailer as it should be. It is time to get a book on basic wiring so you understand the principles. Auto wiring (same for trailers) has its quirks, but roughly follows the same principles. An exception is sometimes things are grounded to the body. The other exception is 12 v. doesn't kill you, but 120 v. could, though you have to be well grounded and most people pull their hand away very fast (I can show you a melted screwdriver to prove how strong 120 v. can be).

The first photos looked really good, but the wiring (and it seems the plumbing) are a mess. I admire your effort to get right at this and fix things. But … take a deep breath, ask yourself what you are getting into, and then do a lot of research on these things before you go further.

Gene
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:53 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrawfordGene View Post
El', I just love people who do "repairs" to things when they don't know what they are doing, or never think that they or someone else will have to figure out how to fix those "repairs" years later.

Gene
I think that quote will be my motto for this entire trailer lol. I checked the 3 flat wires in the 2nd pic. Only 1 was hot and yes it was HOT... 120v hot! Im having a sick feeling Im gonna have to remove the panels just to get a good idea as to whats goin on... Iv done my fair share of auto wiring and did some electrical in high school so Iv got a basic idea of what Im doing but remoing wall panels/bely pans was WAY more in depth than I was wanting to get
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Old 09-07-2012, 08:55 AM   #31
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Glad to hear you have some experience with auto wiring. That'll help you determine what is wrong and make it right. Buying an older trailer always has surprises.

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Old 09-07-2012, 08:56 AM   #32
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Yup... I shoulda looed it over better before I agreed to get it. But thats how it goes I guess! Itll all pay off once I park this bad boy in a campground for the first time!
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Old 09-07-2012, 04:37 PM   #33
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How about my water pump? Anyone got any idea on that?
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:35 AM   #34
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Hey guys! DreamSmasher makes a comeback! I took my AS on her maiden voyage last weekend and I gotta say, camping is a lotta work but well worth it! While camping I noticed one major problem: either my black or grey tank leaks. EEK! Major problem. Im sure that is a problem that is ticket-worthy and doubt most parks would appreciate my poo leaking on the ground. How would I fix this problem? Would it require the removal of the belly pan?
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Old 11-22-2012, 11:49 AM   #35
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The color should tell you which tank is leaking. Let's hope it isn't brown.

First thing to do is look behind the two dump valves and if there are access plates on the belly pan, you can look up in the cavity where the tanks are. After putting on your diver's helmet, take off the plates and look around. You may find the leak, or, if not, you may have to go further.

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Old 11-23-2012, 08:23 PM   #36
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Mine looks like a somewhat accessible area held on with large screws instead of rivets. It looks like it covers the tanks. Ill have to drop it and see what I can find.

As for color: I couldnt tell. We didnt #2 in the toilet. I knew we would only be camping for a few days and I didnt wanna have to deep clean the black tank right before winter. It wasnt clear water by no means but that could mean the tanks were dusty/dirty themselves.
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:06 PM   #37
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The grey tank can have a brown liquid appearance . . if you dump off enough coffee as I do. But there is no mistaking the black tank smell.
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