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Old 01-16-2020, 10:28 AM   #1
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De-winterizing with my new winterizing kit installed

Hi all,
While at the factory, I had them install a winterizing kit which should make it much easier for me to winterize in the future (it is very cramped space in my unit). Here's my question:
The petcock on the brass fitting at the pump site is in the closed position (unit is winterized).
This spring, when I d-winterize, I will:
Hook up to city water
Twist the winterizing kit petcock to open position.
Run the water at each faucet (hot and cold), the toilet, shower and outside shower until it all runs clear.
Here's the question: I then CLOSE the petcock for the season until I winterize again? Right?
Thanks all.
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Old 01-16-2020, 11:23 AM   #2
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You should probably check with the factory, which installed the unit. There are a variety of setups, so it is risky to give a 100% accurate answer IMO. Did they give you any paperwork or a manual on this? Photos would help.

Assuming that your brass petcock is what enables you to suck antifreeze out of its bottle, that valve would remain closed until the next time you want to winterize IMO. If you open it before then, you would just be sucking air into the pump, if I have understood you correctly.

You also have a separate bypass valve at the water heater, which prevents AF from going into the water heater, correct? That should be closed now, and would be opened when you "summerize."

Good luck,

Peter

PS -- The Winterizing etc. sub-forum, and the sticky topic at the top of the page, are good resources FYI:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458/
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f458...rize-7222.html
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Old 01-16-2020, 11:35 AM   #3
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Generally the winterizing valve is not open/closed, but rather the handle points to the source - towards the side where you place a jug of antifreeze or the other way for water to flow from the fresh water tank. When it is pointed towards the antifreeze it prevents any flow into or out of the tank to the pump.
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Old 01-16-2020, 11:37 AM   #4
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Ray I think her new brass petcock valve is separate from the AS OEM bypass valve at the water heater? [see Post #2]

Peter
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Old 01-16-2020, 11:45 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
Ray I think her new brass petcock valve is separate from the AS OEM bypass valve at the water heater? [see Post #2]

Peter
Thanks, I know that. The operation of the winterizing valve is simple - one way for water from the tank, the other way for antifreeze from a jug. It isn't a bypass setup.

If it is left pointed towards the antifreeze jug the city water connection will still work fine, just no access to the fresh water tank.
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Old 01-16-2020, 01:14 PM   #6
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Pat, please clarify your setup, with photos if possible. Is the brass petcock valve new, and different than the OEM bypass valve at the water heater?

Thanks,

Peter
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Old 01-18-2020, 07:22 PM   #7
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I will take photos next time I'm in the AS. Thanks for your inputs so far.
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Old 01-19-2020, 05:44 AM   #8
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I always have the water heater valve closed until I flush the lines of antifreeze.

If there is a valve that, when open, permits pulling antifreeze from a gallon jug, it would need to be closed for flushing the lines with city water hookup.
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Old 01-20-2020, 02:37 AM   #9
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I will take photos next time I'm in the AS. Thanks for your inputs so far.
Thanks for the update.

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Old 01-20-2020, 07:52 AM   #10
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major airhead - thanks, that's what I thought.
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Old 01-20-2020, 10:23 AM   #11
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Like Adventure.AS posted, the (brass) valve is moved towards the jug as the source, then switched back to use the water tank as the source. I get the feeling you were asking about the bypass valve for the water heater, however. You want to get rid of the antifreeze before you take it out of bypass or antifreeze will get into the water heater and you'll have foamy hot water.

Since I have to sanitize the fresh water tank too, instead of hooking up to city water I open the low point drains and taps to get out as much antifreeze as I can. Then I close the drains and pump the sanitizing water through the water lines until I smell bleach.

I let that sit for 4 hours, open the low point drains and pump the water tank empty. Then I fill the water tank with fresh water and pump it through all the lines to clear out the bleach. Then I open the low point drains and pump until the tank is empty again.

Then I take the water heater out of bypass, hook up city water, fill and drain the water heater to clear out sediment, put the plug back in.

This seems to get rid of most of the foaming and smell from the antifreeze and keep the water and hot water tanks clean.
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Old 01-22-2020, 10:38 PM   #12
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richw46 - thanks. I wasn't asking about the water bypass valve. I just wanted to be sure of my process when using my de-winterizing kit. The way majorairhead answered my question, I could tell he understood what I was asking, despite how poorly I put it to the forum. Thanks all.
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:55 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatLee View Post
richw46 - thanks. I wasn't asking about the water bypass valve. I just wanted to be sure of my process when using my de-winterizing kit. The way majorairhead answered my question, I could tell he understood what I was asking, despite how poorly I put it to the forum. Thanks all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by majorairhead View Post
...

If there is a valve that, when open, permits pulling antifreeze from a gallon jug, it would need to be closed for flushing the lines with city water hookup.
The winterization kit is normally installed between the fresh water tank and the pump.

It doesn't make any difference which way that valve is turned when you use the city water connection as the pump is a check valve and water shouldn't flow back past it through the winterization kit or into the fresh water tank. The valve does need to be turned to be inline with the pipe from the tank if you want to use that source of water.
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