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09-09-2013, 07:18 AM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1988 32' Excella
Radcliff
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 8
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Cracks in interior plastic endcaps
How can I fix cracks in the plastic ceiling interior endcaps of my 25' 1988 excella?
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09-09-2013, 07:50 AM
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#2
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4 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Hopkins
, Minnesota
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 458
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I'm repairing mine with epoxy resin and fiberglass cloth from the auto parts store
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09-10-2013, 09:49 AM
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#3
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1 Rivet Member
1988 32' Excella
Radcliff
, Kentucky
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 8
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Thanks, I have a couple ideas, but your sounds most likely.
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09-10-2013, 10:08 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
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The bad news is...........
I am hearing that taking the end caps off is the best way, so that you can bond the backside as well as the front. Some have reported that the cracks can reappear if you just repair the exposed side. I drilled a hole at the end of the crack. That supposedly stops the crack from cracking any further. Sorry. Don't shoot the messenger. There is a current thread about a very good product for this application.
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09-10-2013, 03:21 PM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
1963 28' Ambassador
Vintage Kin Owner
Northern VT
, Vermont
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 360
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A front side patch may or may not last, you would have to extend the patch well beyond the crack in all directions to "feather" the edges so as not to show especially the "shadow effect" from angled lighting. Ideally you would remove the cap and patch front and back. There is an old school trick we used to use on Vettes. May sound a bit intimidating but it works. You cut at the crack enough to allow insertion of a rectangular wet fiberglass/resin patch on a thin stiff backer, a pull string in the middle. Slid it in the cut, rotate, pull tight with the string, tie it off tight on something, let it dry. Now you can repair / fill the exposed side.
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09-11-2013, 07:38 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Denver
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 768
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What putback is describing sounds like the way you fix a hole in wallboard. Same sort of methodology. What I do is tie a pencil to the string, then you simply wind the pencil till it is as tight as you'd like, then you leave it in place till the backing is dry.
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09-11-2013, 07:46 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2008 27' International FB
Venice
, Florida
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 706
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pictures are always good. I have cracking at the upper corners at the fold, difficult area if you do not want to paint. Removing the end cap WOW what a job! Addition trouble, the front end cap discolored. Not the same as rear anymore?? If I can get a picture taken I will post.
__________________
Bill and Janice, We're lovin' it! (Airstreaming)
Airdreamers
WBCCI #8880
AIR #41310
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09-11-2013, 01:26 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1972 27' Overlander
Denver
, North Carolina
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 768
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Not sure if the job is that difficult. Take a close look basically the end caps are held on by a bunch of pop rivets. Once unriveted, you could take them out and paint them with the correct epoxy paint in the color you want....or baring that idea, you could simply tarp everything,mask with blue tape and have at it! Wear a respirator!
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09-18-2013, 10:27 AM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member
1976 27' Overlander
Hartford
, Alabama
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 74
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So, duct tape is out?
TomJ
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09-18-2013, 11:45 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1976 Argosy 22
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 533
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I fiberglassed mine on the backside and bondoed the front side... Then I repainted everything. The problem I ran into was that getting the caps back into place and reinstalling the cabinet on the front side is a pain. They are a tight fit or were for me... In that process I ended up bending them too much and some of the cracks recracked. My plan is to wait until the whole trailer interior is back in 100% and then rebondo and paint.
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