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Old 11-23-2014, 12:01 PM   #1
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Corrosion inside of exterior skins - anything to do?

Hi All,

I have my inside skins out and am in the process of reinsulating. I have a lot of white, sort of chalky areas on the inside of the exterior skins...I suppose from where spots of fiberglass insulation stayed wet for long periods of time.

Is there anything I should do to mitigate before covering back up?

Thanks,
--Jason
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:15 PM   #2
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I would just clean it up and seal the leaks.


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Old 11-23-2014, 01:43 PM   #3
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From my experience the really bad white chalky interior corrosion that you show in your picture is causes by soaked mouse urine insulation mixed with water from a leak. Think acid! You need to remove this corrosion if it has not already eaten its way through your skin. As J. Morgan said clean it up and make sure the leaks are sealed up well. To clean up the corrosion you need to DA the white chalky stuff off until you see nice shinny aluminum, if you do not remove it it will over time eat through the skin.
Good Luck
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Old 11-23-2014, 01:55 PM   #4
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Thanks guys, glad I asked. I think I have the leaks taken care of.

vinstream...what does "DA" mean?

Thanks,

--Jason
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Old 11-23-2014, 02:07 PM   #5
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Dual action sander I thinks.


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Old 12-05-2014, 06:30 PM   #6
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Again, glad I asked. Some of the metal, like around my running lights was so flaky that when I hit it with the sander it just crumbled. Better to know now when it's easier to patch.

White stuff is gone!

PS. Definitely need the respirator and goggles for that job...nasty corrosion dust everywhere!
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Old 01-05-2015, 05:18 PM   #7
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would covering the inside portions with a corrosion sealant (POR 15)be any help?
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Old 01-06-2015, 11:50 AM   #8
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Not sure about POR15 for aluminum corrosion, but I think it sanded off pretty clean. Now with rigid foam insulation and everything sealed off, vermin can get in and even if small leaks develop, the foam won't stay soaked like the fiberglass did.
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Old 01-10-2015, 12:56 PM   #9
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Looks good...what grit sandpaper did you use? The picture makes it looks like there's some pitting left after you sanded (I have the same issue). Did you do anything to remove the corrosion from the pitting?
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Old 01-10-2015, 04:20 PM   #10
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I was told (and saw myself) patches of corrosion by internal shell seam overlaps are 90% likely to be from a missed rivet (10% by a loose one) but it's not like the ones drilled through two or more sheets --- for ease of assembly the sheets are pre-punched and often they just cant make 50 out of 50 align correctly so end up skipping one that is only punched on the outside.

Wander out and scan the seam rivet lines closely and see if you can spot a top sheet hole w/o rivet, or a rivet lifted above the exterior shell sheet...
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Old 01-11-2015, 10:18 AM   #11
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I mainly used an 80 grit sanding disc on my angle grinder. In tight spots I did it by hand with whatever grit I had. There is still some pitting, but I had to draw a line on how deep I wanted to go. Beyond that I am just wiping everything down with a bleach solution before I stuff the rigid insulation in.

To Wabbit's point, I had leaks all over the place. Something like a branch must have crashed onto my roof. Somehow the exterior skin doesn't show it but the frame got bent in spots causing nearby rivets to get loose and in some cases pop off. In other spots clearly rodent excrement was the culprit. I bent my frame back into place as best I could and used stainless steel screws to reattach with vulkem to seal the deal. After many days of rain and no drips I am moving forward with the insulation.
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:44 PM   #12
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Zinc Chromate Primer

Just getting to this thread, and surprised no one mentioned using a zinc chromate primer. I scuff as much of the white stuff off with a general grit sand paper. Then spray it with a vinegar/water mixture to neutralize it, let it dry, then spray the zinc chromate primer.

The DA method may work as well, but I had some really bad areas. Just afraid to wear the skin to thin on my 1947 CW.
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