Cleaning/Waxing Aluminum Interior

[DreamStreamr]

2Air', I agree with what's left of my lungs and other internals -- we don't need additional exposure to chemicals. Between what leaches from manufactured goods in the office, home, tow vee and trailer, then people want the air to smell natural so we're exposed to "fresh scent" air fresheners and sprays, and then I bring up the Windex surface spray -- You and Paula are right, keep it simple and just use basic organic solvents like water and olive oil. We're gonna find out a bit late in the game just how badly all these chems add up. For now we only wonder about all the sensitivities because our bodies are more sensitive than instrumentation at detecting presence of chems. Yuck. So, 2Air', thanks for the health admonition. I plan to heed it. Hmm, is the microfiber cloth really safe? Yeah, for now. (caution: only use as directed by mfr)

[lewster]

Hi Folks,

I have to admit that a discussion about wax is like an oil thread or one on religion. That said, I have tried Walbernize and didn't really like the product. I ended up using a product that I have had wonderful results with for over 5 years on all of my vehicles and motorcycles. That product is called REJEX. It is available on-line from its' manufacturer : corrosionx.com. It is a polymer based product that wipes on and really just wipes off....no buffing.

I have used this on my recently departed 40' MoHo with brilliant results. The bugs either hose off or need nothing more than a light wipe to remove. The product has a higher refractive index than wax so it produces more shine, and when properly applied according to the directions, lasts about 6 months.

Needless to say that I love this stuff and have literally covered the inside and outside of my A/S with it. You need sunglasses at night to enter as it's so bright inside now ! And soooo smoooooth tooooooo.

[2airishuman]

hi lewster and others

there is an error in my post #16....should be ethylene glycol esters.....cannot edit it now.........

you are correct threads on wax, oil, wbcci, hitches and a lot of the topics here can be near religous....

what was different to me about this thread......using the products inside the trailer....where safety might be a bit bigger issue than shine/gloss.

the rejex you favor is fine stuff. it is basically a silicone polymer in a petrol base......like many other products along this line.....but it also has water in the base....thats why the long curing time.....

i like the syn products a lot and use them my self....the rejex label info suggests 'those oily silicones' are bad..... and it's true, paint shops don't want silicone/siloxane things in the shop because they keep fresh paint from sticking! not good. but as cured paint protection, tire, plastic trim and so on they are fine.....the oil base products aren't as nice as the water, alcohol, petrol base products....and the oil bases are sticky....

but rejex is a silicone/siloxane product emulsed in a petrol/water base.

here is the msds.....

http://www.corrosionx.com/msds/rejex.pdf

ALL car waxs and sealants evaporate over time, even after dried out.

i really don't think you want this inside a closed trailer/living space....especially as much wall space as the safaris/ccds have....if it last 6 months inside.......you are breathing it for 6 months inside......

breath what you like.......... just know what's in the air you breath....

if i had a bottle of rejex i'd surely try it on the outside of my airstream and my truck too.


cheers
2air'

[lewster]

2air,

Thanks for the chemical analysis of the product. I haven't heard language like that since I was in engineering school......quite refreshing! Anway, I haven't read the MSDS since I started using the product years ago. I'll re-study it now that it has a little more relevance to my health.

Thanks for your concern! Karma to you !!!!!!!

[bowman68]

Hi All,

Trying to do a restorative cleaning on a '68 Overlander. I think it looks like some oxidation has occurred especially in the window areas. Ideas for how to clean, and make shiny?

[lewster]

Originally Posted by bowman68

Hi All,

Trying to do a restorative cleaning on a '68 Overlander. I think it looks like some oxidation has occurred especially in the window areas. Ideas for how to clean, and make shiny?

I hope you realize that this thread is 9 years old, and that most of the original posters (myself excluded) are no longer participating on the Forums.