Visit our Popular Forums

pamelake · 01-04-2007, 09:19 AM

I hope this isn't a duplicate... my last attempt didn't seem to go through. I am hoping to find someone who has installed electric radiant heat in their Airstream. I have the bamboo ordered to float in my 25' 1974 Tradewind and would like to consider radiant heat to go under it. I have reviewed old threads and looked at the websites for NuHeat, WarmlyYours, and a few others. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks, Pam

Inland RV Center, In · 01-04-2007, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pamelake

I hope this isn't a duplicate... my last attempt didn't seem to go through. I am hoping to find someone who has installed electric radiant heat in their Airstream. I have the bamboo ordered to float in my 25' 1974 Tradewind and would like to consider radiant heat to go under it. I have reviewed old threads and looked at the websites for NuHeat, WarmlyYours, and a few others. Any advice would be appreciated! Thanks, Pam

Pam.

DON'T DO IT....

The water system in your Airstream is very dependent on air circulating through the heat ducts, especially in very cold weather.

If it's freezing, the water lines will freeze, "unless" hot air goes through the ducts.

Using "radiant" heat sources will "not" warm the water lines.

Nice idea, but not practical, for a travel trailer, that "could" be exposed to freezing weather.

Andy

pamelake · 01-04-2007, 10:05 AM

Andy, Thanks for your reply. I am not considering the water filled systems.... but electric 'mats' that are made to go under floating floors.... The idea is to use this as a nice way to take the 'chill' off of the floors while plugged in. My planned use for the AS will be using it while plugged in..... so if the panels work, the idea works for me.... Am I making sense? Pam

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

DON'T DO IT....

The water system in your Airstream is very dependent on air circulating through the heat ducts, especially in very cold weather.

If it's freezing, the water lines will freeze, "unless" hot air goes through the ducts.

Using "radiant" heat sources will "not" warm the water lines.

Nice idea, but not practical, for a travel trailer, that "could" be exposed to freezing weather.

Andy

Inland RV Center, In · 01-04-2007, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pamelake

Andy, Thanks for your reply. I am not considering the water filled systems.... but electric 'mats' that are made to go under floating floors.... The idea is to use this as a nice way to take the 'chill' off of the floors while plugged in. My planned use for the AS will be using it while plugged in..... so if the panels work, the idea works for me.... Am I making sense? Pam

As long as you do not use the mats for primary heat, you will be fine, and your Airstream will be too.

Andy

pamelake · 01-04-2007, 11:00 AM

Andy, Have you seen it done? Pam

Inland RV Center, In · 01-04-2007, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pamelake

Andy, Have you seen it done? Pam

Heard of it, but have never seen it.

Andy

01-04-2007, 11:20 AM

An excellent idea. I just installed it in a bath remodel for a customer under ceramic tile. Pretty much plug and play.

markdoane · 01-04-2007, 12:06 PM

I've done two residential bathrooms, both under ceramic tile. All I can say is WONDERFUL! I used 'Warmly Yours' for both. They have good stuff and you can order online.

I don't see why it wouldn't work just as well in an airstream as long as you pad it well to prevent abrasion of the wires.

LI Pets · 01-07-2007, 01:02 AM

Works great, I use reptile undertank heaters, they draw hardly any elec.

They are paper thin

VSP Raleigh · 01-07-2007, 08:44 AM

I would be worried about abrasion of the cables sitting between two wood surfaces with the flexing of the vehicle.

Mike Lewis · 01-07-2007, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lipets

Works great, I use reptile undertank heaters, they draw hardly any elec.

They are paper thin

just curious, how much is "hardly any" ??? KWH's ???? of course it doesn't matter when using nightly RV sites where electric is included in site rental. Just curious as most monthlys meter electric. ----pieman

LI Pets · 01-07-2007, 12:33 PM

Abrasion not an issue just install it with a little thought.

See Here

VSP Raleigh · 01-07-2007, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lipets

Abrasion not an issue just install it with a little thought.

See Here

Umm... thats a lizard tank warmer....

And I can't just dismiss the abrasion issue either. Electric heat cable/mats are supposed to be installed in thinset or a lightweight concrete skim coat under tile.

Foureagles · 01-15-2007, 12:59 PM

Pam:

Sounds like an interesting project! I might just have to look into it as well, and size my new solar stuff accordingly. I've seen, experienced, but never installed hot water radiant floors, and they are indeed luxurious. I too wonder about an electrical setup under a floating floor -- not much padding space there, and the stuff does move.

To be clear, I think what Andy was addressing in his first reply to this thread was not freezing in a water-based radiant system, but in the trailer's existing plumbing supply lines. They run adjacent to the forced-air heat duct in the floor, and rely on heat loss from those ducts to avoid freezing. I knew this when I installed a backup catalytic gas heater in my trailer, and was sure that I'd have the presence of mind to regulate things enough to keep the pipes warm. Well, wouldn't ya' know it, one night of too much wine and too little dilegence led to busted pipes. I'd think that going small on the radiant setup, perhaps just heating a few strategic footpaths, ought to be enough to ensure that you need the forced-air heat as much as your pipes do.

Best of luck, and please keep us posted on this and your other projects.

Ted Foureagles

pamelake · 01-15-2007, 01:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

just curious, how much is "hardly any" ??? KWH's ???? of course it doesn't matter when using nightly RV sites where electric is included in site rental. Just curious as most monthlys meter electric. ----pieman

I just talked with WarmlyYours and the type of mats I am purchasing draw 10 watts per sq/ft. For my project I am ordering 2 2'x8' mats for a total of 160 watts. Not too bad, eh? Pam

pamelake · 01-15-2007, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Paul NC

Umm... thats a lizard tank warmer....

And I can't just dismiss the abrasion issue either. Electric heat cable/mats are supposed to be installed in thinset or a lightweight concrete skim coat under tile.

The mats I am ordering are made to be placed under enginered flooring. No thin set. They are pads covered in kind of foil and require 110. If you are interested, go to warmlyyours.com and look at the Environ 11 product....

pamelake · 01-15-2007, 01:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Foureagles

Pam:

Sounds like an interesting project! I might just have to look into it as well, and size my new solar stuff accordingly. I've seen, experienced, but never installed hot water radiant floors, and they are indeed luxurious. I too wonder about an electrical setup under a floating floor -- not much padding space there, and the stuff does move.

To be clear, I think what Andy was addressing in his first reply to this thread was not freezing in a water-based radiant system, but in the trailer's existing plumbing supply lines. They run adjacent to the forced-air heat duct in the floor, and rely on heat loss from those ducts to avoid freezing. I knew this when I installed a backup catalytic gas heater in my trailer, and was sure that I'd have the presence of mind to regulate things enough to keep the pipes warm. Well, wouldn't ya' know it, one night of too much wine and too little dilegence led to busted pipes. I'd think that going small on the radiant setup, perhaps just heating a few strategic footpaths, ought to be enough to ensure that you need the forced-air heat as much as your pipes do.

Best of luck, and please keep us posted on this and your other projects.

Ted Foureagles

Ted, thanks for helping me understand that very critical difference. I didn't ever think the radiant flooring would be my complete heat source. Now I have another good reason to use my furnace! Thanks again, Pam

markdoane · 01-15-2007, 02:03 PM

Pam,

I'm sure you will be very happy with the warmlyyours product. Are you ordering the thermostat, or just going to run it off a rheostat.

BTW, check your math on the power, I think you have 320 watts of mat. Still pretty low power use, for being able to leave your socks and slippers off year round.

pamelake · 01-15-2007, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by markdoane

Pam,

I'm sure you will be very happy with the warmlyyours product. Are you ordering the thermostat, or just going to run it off a rheostat.

BTW, check your math on the power, I think you have 320 watts of mat. Still pretty low power use, for being able to leave your socks and slippers off year round.

You are right about the math... the 160 was per mat. I am glad no one is relying on me for the details of this project and I trust my floor installer! I am ordering the GFI thermostat. The support people tell me it also comes with a sensor that tells the exact temp of the floor to prevent over heating. In some instances this has helped negotiate with a flooring company that wanted to void a warranty because of the radiant heat.

Okay, just when I think I am getting a handle on some of the technical stuff.... what the heck is a rheostat? I have heard the word before! I think I need to know this....Pam

markdoane · 01-15-2007, 02:32 PM

Pam,

Good decision on the thermostat.

Warning: don't lose the instruction sheet. I put a mat in my wife's bathroom and she lost the instruction sheet. She has a hard time figuring out the icons and programming steps.

A rheostat is like a light dimmer. Its a manual control for the heat mat, without the sensor. The thermostat is a little expensive, but worth it in my opinion.