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Old 12-30-2014, 05:02 PM   #15
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Try a yoga mat or one of those closed cell foam mats used in the gym for floor work. They are fairly thin but have some insulation value. I would use Velcro to attach to the wall so you could remove for cleaning and/or aesthetics. Either can be cut down to size.

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Old 12-30-2014, 05:09 PM   #16
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I had stock wall pads on a 70s model and took them apart to reupholster. They were corrugated cardboard wrapped in batting and then covered with fabric. No sewing - this is a glue gun project. They were riveted onto the walls. I reused the cardboard and they were surprisingly effective.

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Old 12-30-2014, 05:32 PM   #17
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My husband uses one of those body pillows along the wall in winter. It takes up less room than me and doesn't snore or steal the blankets!

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Old 12-30-2014, 06:10 PM   #18
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We made a cozy pad with fleece on both sides and polyester batting inside. It is about 10 inches high and attaches all around the aluminum walls of the bed. The attachment is snaps to allow removal for washing. We camp each year where it is very cold at night and the pad was our reaction to the first year there! Our walls have the mouse fur, but the cold wall was bad anyway. I hate to think about what the bare aluminum is like.

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Old 12-30-2014, 06:32 PM   #19
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Fwiw, last winter in Lubbock, I was able to keep the Airstream toasty warm in low teen weather with a single space heater....

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Old 12-31-2014, 10:37 AM   #20
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Camping in the cold

We have a AS 325 MH. We woke up one winter morning outside of Albuquerque NM in late January 2011 and it was -6 degrees! That's 6 degrees below zero! Yes, the walls by the beds in back were cold and they are covered with a velour material. This was our answer, we had electric mattress covers and oversized feather bed quilts on each bed. The beds were VERY warm and toasty. Our problem was the water lines froze!
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:20 AM   #21
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this is really interesting ... I have been considering velcro for lots of stuff but, ...... what keeps stopping me is this. If I decide that I want to move/remove the velcro strip attached to the aluminum wall, will I have a remaining mark on the aluminum wall?
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Old 12-31-2014, 11:31 AM   #22
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We finally came up with a solution that works great for us. These sleeping pads from Walmart provide just enough of a barrier to keep those cold walls away from us. We originally used them "as is" without any sort of cover but found that condensation would build up between the pad and the walls. I sewed some pad covers out of inexpensive heavy weight upholstery fabric and that took care of the moisture prob as well as adding a bit of insulation. We just tuck them in between between the mattress and the trailer wall of the front bed using extra pillows to help keep them upright. We also use them on the dining table bed tucking them between the mattress and outside wall AND using clothespins and elastic to keep them from flopping over. One of our dogs sleeps in the doorway space so we cut a pad to fit to insulate that area for him. The pads are easy to roll up and store in the off season or leave them flat and store under the mattress full time. Walmart: Stansport Pack-Lite Camping Pad
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:04 PM   #23
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Hot Springs , Arkansas
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I'm not sure what your bed arrangement is, but in my Sovereign there are upholstered panels mounted on the wall side of the twin bed, and behind the sofa. It's constructed of 1/8 inch Masonite , thin foam under fabric which is secured with glue and screwed into the walls. My 11y/o nephew and I, camp at least 2-3 times a month. Last night it was around 25F. The strip heater kept it very tolerable.
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:21 PM   #24
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I attached indoor/outdoor carpet on the walls adjacent to the bed. It's inexpensive, light weight, easy to trim to size and comes in complimentary colors. The top of the carpet is easily held in place by sandwiching it between the lower curtain railing and wall.
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:23 PM   #25
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Lots of great ideas here... taking notes for the next project
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:24 PM   #26
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My 86 Safari has mouse fur walls. Much better insulation than bare metel.

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Old 12-31-2014, 01:47 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by TMT View Post
We just camped for the first time in our new to us 2005 Airstream Interstate.
It was in the low 40's at night, and we did have the heater on appropriately.
But boy, those walls beside the bed are really cold! COLD!

I would love to hear what some of you have done to combat those cold walls. You just can't help but touch them somethings during the night.

I made an adult-sized "crib bumper" for our 2010 Flying Cloud 20'. I cut a 7' length of 1 inch thick white urathane foam, seven inches wide. This strip reaches from the head-end hamper to the one at the foot of the bed. I wrapped this with quilt batting, and sewed a long, skinny "envelope" made from part of a fleece blanket in a color that coordinates with the color scheme of our trailer. I turned the fabric after sewing right sides together, inserted the foam core, then whip-stitched the opening by hand. Inserted it between the mattress and the wall. Works like a charm! Some trailers come equipped with built-in fasteners for commercially made bumpers, but not our 2010 FC20. You can purchase ready-made "core" material at Hobby Lobby, but it's more expensive. It's a fiber-filled batting material about an inch thick.

Hope I've provided you with understandable directions.
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Old 12-31-2014, 04:14 PM   #28
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Conduction Paths

Originally Posted by Ted S. View Post
I totally agree. Aluminum is a fantastic conductor. My company performs energy models for new buildings, if we tried to model an aluminum house it would fail so bad.

Even knowing this, I just had to have an Airstream. Because they're cool. No pun intended.
The exterior skin is cold, due to radiation to the night sky (3.7 deg K cosmic background) and also convection with the cold air. The radiation component will make the skin even colder than ambient on a clear night.

Though the warm zone is insulated with pink in the airspaces between the skins, the insulation is defeated by excellent conduction paths from the cold exterior skin via the structural rubs leading to cold interior aluminum skin. You can see the effect in where condensation forms inside on the bare Al.

Aluminum home windows can be warm if the conduction paths are interrupted. In the airstream trailer what us needed would be a thermal barrier between the exterior skin and the ribs. Much easier would seem to be a nonconducting barrier between the interior skin an the structure ribs either during initial construction, or during interior refurbishment/remodel.

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