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Old 09-16-2015, 04:12 AM   #43
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Wood

wonder if this would also work with wood. what do ya think???
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Old 09-17-2015, 07:52 AM   #44
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I've seen wood endcaps. They used one type of wood for the segments, and a different kind of wood for the slats to hold them together. It looked great!
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Old 09-18-2015, 04:04 AM   #45
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I guess my question is would this method work for a wood installation.
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Old 08-31-2016, 09:14 PM   #46
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Great info... I'm new to the forum. A few questions. When laying out the pattern along the large end of the pieces, do you measure a certain distance,, 11"? That plus the .5 overlap would account for the width of the panel. Would it be easier to pre-drill the holes in the lower side of the panel and then place panel and then drill thru the pre-drilled holes thru the overlaid piece? I see in the picture that it is necessary to trim the overhang at the window side, is it necessary to trim along the rib end or is it that which determines the lay of the panel? lCould the number of panels be increased by adjusting the math, example ,,, 20 pieces 5.5" by 51" I am thinking about doing this in copper.
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Old 09-02-2016, 09:22 PM   #47
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Very nice! Clean and straight, curved, but ... straight!
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Old 09-03-2016, 09:49 AM   #48
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This is not my work but from working on outside skins and reading other threads let me voice my view.

Yes folks have done this in thin birch plywood; there are other threads with good info on the forum.

I believe the size of each part was selected to minimize the need to have a compound angle bends; keeping the width small allows for easier fit and a better approximation to the compound curve. The hidden side could have a larger overlap so that it is easier to fit the next part, this is how the outside skin is done, the last/top skin overlaps the two other skins be a couple of inches.

The rivet count is high as the author's choice.

You might see folks post about structural support requirements from the inside material. This has not been proven and when one views the internal framing and the sparse number of rivets, it seems very unlikely that this is the case.

Let us know how it turns out.
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:49 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mack31 View Post
Great info... I'm new to the forum. A few questions. When laying out the pattern along the large end of the pieces, do you measure a certain distance,, 11"? That plus the .5 overlap would account for the width of the panel. Would it be easier to pre-drill the holes in the lower side of the panel and then place panel and then drill thru the pre-drilled holes thru the overlaid piece? I see in the picture that it is necessary to trim the overhang at the window side, is it necessary to trim along the rib end or is it that which determines the lay of the panel? lCould the number of panels be increased by adjusting the math, example ,,, 20 pieces 5.5" by 51" I am thinking about doing this in copper.
I will try to answer your questions
Large end roof side I took the total distance to the middle of the trailer -5" for center peice and divided it by the number of pieces (5). work on one side at a time. The center piece acts as a cap and is not part of the measurement. Center piece is 11.5" wide. Tried to get the window end as close as possible for width to one another ,once you start laying it out you will see the aluminum will want to go where it goes once pushed against the styrofoam blocks. This method you have more overlap in areas than others. It allows you not worry about patterns and cutting curves exact. Once one side is done take measurements off that side to complete the other side. This will give you the same look side to side.

In my opinion there is no way to pre drill holes, at least with this method. The only place I trimmed was the window end. The rest of the excess doesn't hurt a thing it's all hidden by the other panels or the side and upper interior skin. You can add the number of panels but not reduce because of the compound curves.

I used a small piece of aluminum with two holes and a straight edge to match up with the edge of the segment panel. This allowed me to get the same distance from the edge and from rivet to rivet spacing. I used this spacing because I like the look not for structure. It replaced a weak piece of plastic all for looks no structure.

Hope this helps.
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Old 09-11-2016, 06:20 PM   #50
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I will try to answer your questions
Large end roof side I took the total distance to the middle of the trailer -5" for center peice and divided it by the number of pieces (5). work on one side at a time. The center piece acts as a cap and is not part of the measurement. Center piece is 11.5" wide. Tried to get the window end as close as possible for width to one another ,once you start laying it out you will see the aluminum will want to go where it goes once pushed against the styrofoam blocks. This method you have more overlap in areas than others. It allows you not worry about patterns and cutting curves exact. Once one side is done take measurements off that side to complete the other side. This will give you the same look side to side.

In my opinion there is no way to pre drill holes, at least with this method. The only place I trimmed was the window end. The rest of the excess doesn't hurt a thing it's all hidden by the other panels or the side and upper interior skin. You can add the number of panels but not reduce because of the compound curves.

I used a small piece of aluminum with two holes and a straight edge to match up with the edge of the segment panel. This allowed me to get the same distance from the edge and from rivet to rivet spacing. I used this spacing because I like the look not for structure. It replaced a weak piece of plastic all for looks no structure.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for your help.
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Old 09-15-2016, 02:19 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by larry b View Post
I will try to answer your questions
Large end roof side I took the total distance to the middle of the trailer -5" for center peice and divided it by the number of pieces (5). work on one side at a time. The center piece acts as a cap and is not part of the measurement. Center piece is 11.5" wide. Tried to get the window end as close as possible for width to one another ,once you start laying it out you will see the aluminum will want to go where it goes once pushed against the styrofoam blocks. This method you have more overlap in areas than others. It allows you not worry about patterns and cutting curves exact. Once one side is done take measurements off that side to complete the other side. This will give you the same look side to side.

In my opinion there is no way to pre drill holes, at least with this method. The only place I trimmed was the window end. The rest of the excess doesn't hurt a thing it's all hidden by the other panels or the side and upper interior skin. You can add the number of panels but not reduce because of the compound curves.

I used a small piece of aluminum with two holes and a straight edge to match up with the edge of the segment panel. This allowed me to get the same distance from the edge and from rivet to rivet spacing. I used this spacing because I like the look not for structure. It replaced a weak piece of plastic all for looks no structure.

Hope this helps.
I laid out my panels today with posterboard. The method works,, my first try was not as nice as yours. I noticed the viewable parts of my panels at the window were not the same. I believe this is what made my pattern off. I plan to try again, this time keeping my window ends the same measurement, about 5.25 inches.
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Old 02-27-2017, 02:34 PM   #52
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Im looking at this ... it seems pretty good ... I am going to replace my inner skin on the walls with the plastic sheet material you can get at home depot for about $ 20.00 for a 4'x8' sheet. It pretty durable and local RV guy says they have been using it with great success in all types of repairs .

Its (Model # 63003 ) (Internet #202090190)(Store SKU #179646)
1/16 in. x 4 ft. x 8 ft. Plastic Panel $19.98 per sheet.

I wonder if I could cut this up and POP RIVET it like you say to make matching END CAPS ????

Im hoping it take one see up each wall and a strip down the middle.
Seems should fall upon the support every 4ft. they make T Joints for it if not.

Im also going to have the interior spray foamed. that will add to strength and make more ridged.

Any ideas ?
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Old 02-27-2017, 09:18 PM   #53
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Why not just paint your original walls? Replace aluminum walls with plastic? Doesn't seem like a good idea to me. Plastic doesn't hold fasteners well, will crack, is weak, etc.

Seriously don't do this IMO. Grab some Krylon fusion and paint those walls nice and white.
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Old 06-30-2017, 11:12 PM   #54
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This is outstanding Larry B! The other post by Cochise & this one have set me in motion to replace the fiberglass endcap in my '60 Tradewind. Will have it out tomorrow and will order all the foam, aluminum, rivits and clecos next. Thanks for the technique.
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Old 08-02-2017, 09:17 PM   #55
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Need some advise please. The metal shop I took my mixed box of 5052 & 20-24 T3 cut 7 of the 11 needed panels from the 20-24 T3. It should have all been cut from the 5052. My expensive mistake. Reviewing the specs of these two materials the 20-24 T3 Alclad is a stronger material but should I use it alongside the 5052 panels for the segmented endcap? Will they look and age the same and be equally installable. This is a 60 Tradewind which I have stripped the Zolatone out of so all the unpainted interior skin will be seen. Correct if I'm wrong but the interior skin is already 20-24 T3 Alclad. Am I creating a problem where there is not one? :-)

Tnx, Richard
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