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Old 12-08-2014, 06:23 PM   #29
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You would build it outside the trailer & then install just the outer edges with olympic rivets or pop rivets. That's my guess. The originals make it through the door in one piece & are riveted in place with simple pop rivets. When I took mine out, I didn't remove the bucked rivets & it came out in one piece.
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Old 12-08-2014, 07:50 PM   #30
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I like the build it in place technique. I would think that if you build it outside the trailer you would need a fixture that simulates the contour of the endcap. If you use Olympic rivets and shave the heads they will look pretty close to buck rivets. If you were to sell a kit I am guessing that the hole in the panels would have to be laser or water jet cut. Even then, a little slop in the rivet holes and the end cap may not fit.

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Old 12-08-2014, 08:12 PM   #31
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Aerowood and Zep, How do you buck these panels unless you build it outside the trailer and buck it together then install it?
Buck outside, then install the edges with pop rivets. As others have said, a complete dome can get through the door. It's very flexible until the edges are attached.

You need a fixture to hold the edges when you buck outside. You can make the whole thing out of one sheet of plywood. My fixture duplicates one-half of the Airstream interior shape. It's hinged so that it can be flipped to represent the other side. Once you have the two halves, you don't need a fixture to buck them together. OK, not two halves, since one of them will have the center leaf.

Luke Bernander (airstreaminco@gmail.com) and I made a dome cover for his generator on the front bumper of his tow vehicle. About the same size as what you'd need to cover two propane tanks. I can't find the photo--he might have it.

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Old 12-09-2014, 11:24 AM   #32
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I plan on riveting it together in place, after all I will have 1.750 clearence to slide my hand in with a flat bucking bar. I was able to shoot solids into my aluminum fresh water support pan and it was had only 1 inch of space and it was 50" wide. Bucking bar was 3' long and 1/2" thick.
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:13 PM   #33
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Nice work Larry. I would love to do this with my 69. But what to do with the control panel, radio, and speakers?
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:13 PM   #34
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I plan on riveting it together in place, after all I will have 1.750 clearence to slide my hand in with a flat bucking bar. I was able to shoot solids into my aluminum fresh water support pan and it was had only 1 inch of space and it was 50" wide. Bucking bar was 3' long and 1/2" thick.
Ha
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:17 PM   #35
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So wait a minute.... you guys think that this dome, while clecoed together, will be too flimsy to take outside and buck in each rivet while removing each cleco? Wont hold its shape well enough? Deform?

My thoughts were to assemble in place with clecos, then pull it outside to buck the rivets. I would think that the holes are the holes.... get the rivets in and it will be back in shape. And if its that flexible, then it shouldnt be a problem to flex it up into place.

You guys thinking thats a mistake?
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:32 PM   #36
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Kip you are very dedicated and skilled at buck riveting. Sounds very time consuming.

Perry

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I plan on riveting it together in place, after all I will have 1.750 clearence to slide my hand in with a flat bucking bar. I was able to shoot solids into my aluminum fresh water support pan and it was had only 1 inch of space and it was 50" wide. Bucking bar was 3' long and 1/2" thick.
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Old 12-09-2014, 12:47 PM   #37
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No I don't think it's a mistake at all. Let me put the way I teach my apprentice mechanics. The goal is to get to Salina Kansas from where we are standing now. I don't care if you ride a bike or fly there. The goal is to get there. It's the same with projects such as this, it doesn't matter how you accomplish the project just that you get the outcome you want, this is how we learn. Your procedure could be entirely different then what I do and that's fine just as long as you accomplish the goal.
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Old 12-09-2014, 07:46 PM   #38
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So wait a minute.... you guys think that this dome, while clecoed together, will be too flimsy to take outside and buck in each rivet while removing each cleco? Wont hold its shape well enough? Deform?

My thoughts were to assemble in place with clecos, then pull it outside to buck the rivets. I would think that the holes are the holes.... get the rivets in and it will be back in shape. And if its that flexible, then it shouldnt be a problem to flex it up into place.

You guys thinking thats a mistake?
I don't see a reason why this wouldn't work, I have never worked with buck rivets, thats why I used olympic rivets. If there is ever a next time I think I would investigate buck rivets approach. The method I used was very fast, and I reached my goal and moved on to other items on the trailer. Post pics very interested in seeing others approach.
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Old 12-10-2014, 07:55 AM   #39
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Clecos will hold it together but that many of them are going to get heavy. You might do one segment at a time. Unless the interior is finished, there is no reason you can't do the bucking while it is inside the trailer. I would think that you would do each corner then buck them together with the center panel last. Kip probably has it all figured out.

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Old 12-10-2014, 09:04 AM   #40
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The method I used was very fast, and I reached my goal and moved on to other items on the trailer.

There is a lot of wisdom right there.



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Old 12-10-2014, 11:36 AM   #41
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I know it's not the "right " way

But why couldn't you just rivet aluminum over the plastic end caps. I am planning to rivet some quilted stainless steel on just the flat top section of my bathroom ( to cover a crack and to fancy it up.)
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Old 12-10-2014, 06:57 PM   #42
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But why couldn't you just rivet aluminum over the plastic end caps. ..
You could in the back. But in the 70s models, the front endcap is odd shaped, with the cabinet in the middle. The plastic endcap also overhangs on both sides. If you cut all that away, the plastic won't have any stability to lay your aluminum panels on.

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