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Old 04-02-2013, 07:57 PM   #15
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1975 31' Sovereign
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Originally Posted by NJtoNC View Post
this looks incredible. How did you ensure both sides were symmetrical and even? ie, first outer panel on left and right the side width, the second one in the same on left and right side, etc?
NJtoNC,
Measure,measure,measure, still not perfect, the rear is better than the front because of experience. But overall its measuring and checking again after a few holes are drilled. If not right remove the clecos and realign and drill new holes.

Larry
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Old 04-02-2013, 08:11 PM   #16
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Hearty congratulations on developing a very quick and effective method. My method was obviously over-thought. I'm going to give your method a try on the back end of my Overlander.

The only refinement I'm going to try is that once all the clecos are in, I'll take the whole thing down and use solid rivets. I know from my previous dome that you can assemble the whole thing and still get it back in.

Zep
Zep,
Very interesting, never thought of this. Not sure what buck rivets cost but my wallet is much lighter after going thru roughly 600 shavable rivets . I can see removing and reinstalling very challenging to handle hope you have a helping hand or hands. Removing half and then buck riveting and reinstalling would be much easier. You would still have to use blind rivets for the center piece though. Please post pictures when you are doing this I am very interested in this refinement. I have never done any metal work like this so very interested in learning different methods for next go around. God willing!

Larry
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Old 04-02-2013, 09:04 PM   #17
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That is really nice work Larry. Thanks for sharing your work and process!
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Old 08-12-2014, 05:38 PM   #18
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1972 27' Overlander
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Larry - beautiful work!

How did you figure out where the panels after the first one started and ended? Did you have a template, or know the final measurements?
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Old 08-18-2014, 08:15 AM   #19
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Quote:
now you are ready to hang the first piece of aluminum and then start working your way towards the center.
I am still amazed by your work. I don't think anyone else has started at the edges. This makes me more willing to do the other end of the Safari!

Zep
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Old 08-18-2014, 06:40 PM   #20
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Beautiful!
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:36 PM   #21
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Looks really nice! Is that closed cell spray foam b/t your rigid insulation board blocking (spacers). Want to use closed cell only safari but have heard a lot of negatives. Would love your thoughts. Also how far apart did you place your rivets? The curve looks very smooth. Thanks for posting!
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:05 PM   #22
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Looks really nice! Is that closed cell spray foam b/t your rigid insulation board blocking (spacers). Want to use closed cell only safari but have heard a lot of negatives. Would love your thoughts. Also how far apart did you place your rivets? The curve looks very smooth. Thanks for posting!
Tentmaker,
The rigid blocks were used to keep a consistant gap between the outer skin and the new interior segments. The insulation between the blocks is fiberglass insulation that I just pulled small pieces off a roll of insulation. I made a gauge to get all the rivets the same distance from the edge and the same distance apart. I just measured the distance on a exterior end cap and copied that spacing. The gauge was nothing more than a small piece of aluminum with two holes and a straight edge to align with the edge of the panel.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:13 PM   #23
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Larry - beautiful work!

How did you figure out where the panels after the first one started and ended? Did you have a template, or know the final measurements?
In the beginning of this thread it states the rectangular size of aluminim that was used for each piece. I just did allot of measuring and marking with a china marker until i got it right. I also did one side of the front with old belly pan material I had laying around to make sure this method would actually work. The second end cap / rear was much easier to complete since i had a routine down.
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Old 11-25-2014, 07:11 PM   #24
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I am still amazed by your work. I don't think anyone else has started at the edges. This makes me more willing to do the other end of the Safari!

Zep
Hey Zep- you still going to try this? I'm thinking cleco and buck it.... interested to see if solid rivets worked.... 600 Olympics is a pretty penny...

Mic
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Old 11-26-2014, 09:03 PM   #25
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Yes, but I'm still four months away from finishing the new house, which has been my personal gulag now for 18 months. The up side is the new house comes with the new Airstream Hangar.
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Old 11-29-2014, 06:20 AM   #26
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Ooooh- thats nice!
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Old 11-29-2014, 10:22 AM   #27
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I plan on using solid rivets when I do both ends of my GT. I also plan on a 15 panel.
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Old 12-08-2014, 01:48 PM   #28
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Aerowood and Zep, How do you buck these panels unless you build it outside the trailer and buck it together then install it?

Good Work Larry on the end caps.

I wonder if I could make a propane shroud this way? The old one was a trapezoid but this might be cool to do.

Perry
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