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Old 09-27-2004, 09:40 PM   #15
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1973 31' Sovereign
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Pointer to some test results...

In case you didn't notice it I have posted some insluation test results in another thread. Check it out:

http://www.airforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=13363

Malcolm
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Old 08-27-2012, 09:41 PM   #16
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2010 28' Flying Cloud
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I love my 28' cloud but the windows are thin plastic (and a lot of them) and all the cold comes in through them
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Old 08-28-2012, 01:58 AM   #17
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I would suggest that one thing you could do would be to use some form of insulating curtains. You might also be able to use some foil insulation film to make removable panels kind of like what you could put inside your car windows to keep out the hot sun. The idea would be to keep in the heat when it is cold outside in this case though.

Malcolm
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:47 AM   #18
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Thanks for the information. I do have the curtains and the foil insulation. My point is really for the money you pay for an airstream, the windows stink. They should go to therma panes or something especially since the room is there between the inner and outer skins.

This is even more important since Aristreams have so many windows. thanks again for the tips
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Old 07-22-2015, 10:54 PM   #19
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How many layers of the foil, which I think is called reflectix ,did you use? We need to re-insulate the walls in our '68 overlander. We will be fulltiming at least in the summer so we want something to help keep it cool.
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:15 PM   #20
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It is surprising that at the price, Airstream still only offers single-pane windows. And the aluminum body with insulation is a relatively poor insulator to the outside.

It has become pretty clear that Airstreams are not very well suited to environments with particularly high or low temps. They seem to be fine "fair weather" coaches... that is if you stay in a temperate comfort zone... and move along when temps get especially cold or warm.

The Arctiic Fox (and others) seem to be much better suited to temp extremes, but then you lose the "Airstream experience". Urgggggh.

We don't plan on sticking around (in our Airstream) anywhere that starts getting quite hot or very cold.
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:35 PM   #21
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Dual pane windows probably wouldn't hold up to the bouncing and bumping. They fail on stationary houses!


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Old 07-23-2015, 12:32 AM   #22
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Bowman,
I did this last summer and this spring. Used Prodex mostly , but came up a little short and finished up with reflectex(silver bubble wrap you see at lowes and Home Depot). My 23' used one full Prodex roll which was 48"x 170' or some length close, and a few rolls of 16" reflectex. They sell wider reflectex, but for what I needed to finish up it was a good size. Both were pretty easy to work with, the Prodex cut a little easier.
Key is getting the trapped air layers, you don't want it going right against the skin.
I did 2 layers of the insulation. The process involved cutting about 5,000, 1"x1" square pieces of 1/2" thick rigid insulation. Yep, 5,000, a little over a full sheet got cut up into little cubes. I set up a little station and would use a razor knife to cut a bunch of 1"x48" strips. Then just slice 1" pieces and feed another inch to the razor. Set up a little 'jig' on a small 2'x4' piece of plywood. Eventually cut through the plywood with the razor cutting in the same spot over and over.
Each section between horizontal and vertical ribs gets done individually do you have to measure and cut the Prodex or reflectex to fit each one.
First I would go to each section and take some of the 1" blocks, I would put a big dab of polyurethane sealant/adhesive(used black poly roofing sealant) on one side of the block and adhere some around the perimeter of the section and then some somewhat randomly in the interior portion, spaced to minimize conductive heat transfer, but enough so they would hold the insulation off the skin and create a air space. I'd let the poly set up over night then put a layer of insulation in. Then I hot glued(so I didn't have to wait for poly to set ) blocks to the face of the next layer of insulation, around its perimeter and spread out in the middle, then put that over the first layer. Each piece of of insulation was cut to fit snug at the edges of each section. You'll quickly realize that the ribs look straight and parallel but often aren't, do lots of measure and cut.
If you can imagine the layers from outside-in, it would be outer skin, foam block, insulation, foam block, insulation. But the foam block layers were really mostly air.
All the wiring got sandwiched between the layers of insulation so it wasn't against the outer or inner skins directly. Figured this will help keep it cooler and last longer and protect from chafing.
Took a lot of work, especially with my OCDism, and the way I did a few things, but I am very happy with it. No insulation can keep a closed up trailer sitting in the sun from getting hot inside. But if I go down to work on it and open up the windows and put the awnings out. It will easily stay very close to outdoor ambient. Haven't had a AC unit on the trailer for almost 2 years working on her so it definitely helps keep cool. No furnace either, When it's cold I turn on a small catalytic heater and it warms up quick(10 min), then I'll usually have to turn it off to keep from getting to hot, running it for 5-10 min an hour to keep it warm.
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Old 07-27-2015, 10:26 AM   #23
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These posts are on the end of a pretty old thread but still the topic is relevant. I believe there are some links that I supplied in one of the earlier posts in this thread to a number of details that I supplied for foil including some tests. I have a couple of quick suggestions here:

1. Using foam strips to space the foil off of the surfaces of the inner and outer walls works great. I put in just one layer of foil but 2 would indeed be better. I also found that a lot of the cavities were fine with just strips around the edges. I would add an additional strip here and there in the middle of very large cavities.

2. I found that if you held foil up against the cavity you were trying to fill that you could get the outline transferred to the foil by running your finger around the edges of the cavity while pressing on the foil.

3. It definitely pays to shop around for the best foil prices. Also the foil does not necessarily need to have bubbles in it. I think this would be especially true using 2 layers.

I would be happy to try to answer other questions about foil.

Malcolm
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Old 01-07-2016, 01:01 AM   #24
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Malcom, in one of your older (much older posts) you mentioned a study you did on different insulation. The link doesn't seem to be working. Do you still have the information? Can you repost it?
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:45 PM   #25
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Here is the link...

Here is the link to where most of my test results are - starting especially with post 82 in this thread.



http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...red-13363.html

Some other places with insulation testing are:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...sts-40442.html


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f4/i...lts-13953.html

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