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Old 02-07-2009, 09:46 PM   #29
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Thanks Klatawa,
Wonderfully Handsome and professional work.
Only thing I question is if you break one of the panes you'll have to build a new door section to fix it. Or maybe you would rout it out and then use 1/4" quarter round sticking.

I suggest both of the door customizations should be highlighted in Airstream Life. If not Handyman or Popular Mechanics etc.
Great pictures and descriptions too.
Thanks again
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Old 02-07-2009, 10:22 PM   #30
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I had not thought about replacement untill you mentioned it. I would most likley router out the bottom section and up about one or two inches. These panels were very flexable and would slide in. Now you have me thinking I should pick one new panel before the design changes and can't find one.
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Old 02-08-2009, 04:11 AM   #31
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You all are so talented!! I am not, but you have inspired me to at least try some things, my MH may look like a collage when I attempt it, but that is ok, it will be unique lol.
Wow!! I am so glad you post this stuff, than you!!
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Old 02-08-2009, 09:28 AM   #32
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Klatawa,
I love this design. Can you post any particulars on how you did this?

Thanks
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Old 02-16-2009, 09:03 PM   #33
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New folding door

You saw the accordion door in our '65 Caravel, well we just finished the accordion door in our 27' Excella.

On the bedroom side of the door, we used the same fabric that we will use on the duvet covers. We wrapped the front side material around the edges one panel to give the door more body around the edges.
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:04 PM   #34
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Thumbs up Gridlines

Jim I notice that all the fabric you use has lines "built-in" in the design of the fabric.
I think this must make sewing the vertical pockets alot easier. That is; helping with the line of stitch. Seems no lines or random designs would make for a nightmare to keep pocket lines straight and parrallel to one another?
Is this why yall choose such paterns?
Again great looking work.
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Old 02-16-2009, 11:44 PM   #35
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No........ The door in the Caravel was a nightmare as it was very hard to line up the squares. Lynn said at that time, "If I ever do another one of these things, I will get a fabric with a random pattern. Maybe no pattern."

Well, as you can see, that didn't happen. It is very difficult to keep the pattern lined up. It would seem easy, but is isn't, as the pattern in fabric is not exactly the same, as it is on wallpaper. The bigger the item, the harder it is to line up the pattern. This may be due to stretch, or just the way the fabric is woven.

I would strongly urge people to use fabric with no pattern, or where the pattern is random, or very large, where lining it up is not important.

Making the stitch lines straight can easily be done with a ruler and pins. You want to pin the back and front together to keep them even and flat anyway.
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Old 02-17-2009, 01:19 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Foster View Post
No........ The door in the Caravel was a nightmare as it was very hard to line up the squares. Lynn said at that time, "If I ever do another one of these things, I will get a fabric with a random pattern. Maybe no pattern."

Well, as you can see, that didn't happen. It is very difficult to keep the pattern lined up. ....
Look up "walking presser foot"

One problem with all sewing machines is that the feed dogs move the bottom layer of fabric past the needle, while the top layer is squeezed down on the bottom layer by the presser foot... often causing the top layer to stretch.... a horrible example can happen when you put a zipper into plaid fabric, and you can NEVER keep the plaid lines lined up together. The zipper looks like the San Andreas fault after a magnitude 7 quake.

A walking presser foot can be adjusted to move the top layer of fabric in concert with the bottom one. Mine has a hand wound spring thingy that works like feed dogs on the top layer of fabric - look at one and you'll instantly see how it works. I started sewing at about 3, but I first saw this type of foot when I was in my 20's... haven't been without one since!
Slows you down quite a bit, but where accuracy is paramount and your fabric has any natural slippriness, well worth using.

Paula
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Old 04-08-2009, 04:35 PM   #37
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Jim- I am having troubles finding replacement slats at HD and Lowes. Maybe just in my area they don't carry them. I guess I should just buy a complete blind and cut it apart? I can't think of another material that would be light, thin and stay straight.

Also- I am having troubles finding a magnetic device or locking device that would work well to secure the door. I didn't hang onto the old door, so that was a mistake. I think Lowes has an accessory part for their PVC folding doors that is a lock device, but it looks large and obtrusive and I don't think it will work well. Any suggestions?
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Old 04-08-2009, 05:36 PM   #38
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We needed two sets of replacement slats because they come 12 to the set and we needed 14. We ended up buying a whole blind on special at a place called "Anna's" for less than the price of two sets of just the slats. We had to cut them down to the 2 1/2" width we wanted as they only come 3 1/2". 2 1/2" went away a couple of years ago.


As for the magnetic catch, the one that was on the old door didn't work for the new door, and was very ugly anyway, so we found a good used one that just fit the bill at an RV wrecking yard in Sacramento.
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Old 04-08-2009, 05:45 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foiled Again View Post
Look up "walking presser foot"

One problem with all sewing machines is that the feed dogs move the bottom layer of fabric past the needle, while the top layer is squeezed down on the bottom layer by the presser foot... often causing the top layer to stretch.... a horrible example can happen when you put a zipper into plaid fabric, and you can NEVER keep the plaid lines lined up together. The zipper looks like the San Andreas fault after a magnitude 7 quake.

A walking presser foot can be adjusted to move the top layer of fabric in concert with the bottom one. Mine has a hand wound spring thingy that works like feed dogs on the top layer of fabric - look at one and you'll instantly see how it works. I started sewing at about 3, but I first saw this type of foot when I was in my 20's... haven't been without one since!
Slows you down quite a bit, but where accuracy is paramount and your fabric has any natural slippriness, well worth using.

Paula
We have two machines with a built in walking foot. A Phaff 1473 and a 1475. We use them mostly for sewing kites made of very thin rip-stop polyester, where a walking foot can be very important, especially on longer seams.

The problem lining up the pattern on the folding door was not from the material crawling, but rather from the pattern on the material not being consistent.
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Old 04-19-2009, 11:18 PM   #40
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Jim- would you mind posting a photo showing the top track and the connection you did with your custom door? I think I follow, but want to see how the rings work with the track.

I am still running into dead ends with the slats. Nobody seems to have them here in Memphis. I found a 4x8 sheet of this Alder Ash wainscot material at HD that is pretty thin and looks to be made of a particle material with a thin paper veneer material on one side. I am thinking about ripping it down to 2.5" strips on the table saw, but concerned that it will be too flimsy and bow once it is in the sewn pockets.

The cheapest blind I have found that is at least 72" long is on ebay for $50+ shipping. It is real wood, looks to be a mis-sized custom that someone ordered and it trying to unload. I was just thinking that this project wouldn't cost that much.

The only other idea was to buy one of the PVC folding doors at HD for $28 and just cut strips out of the PVC with a utility knife.

Anyone have some good ideas for cheap, thin, straight and light material that would work for a custom fabric folding door??
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Old 04-20-2009, 12:23 AM   #41
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This is the best I can do to show the track, hangers and rings. We are 400 miles from the trailer, and will not return there for a month.
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Old 04-20-2009, 08:28 AM   #42
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Thanks Jim.
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