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Old 02-03-2009, 11:14 PM   #15
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That's one of the nicest mods I have seen--great job!
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Old 02-04-2009, 12:23 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Klatawa View Post
We totaly gutted our 63 safari and using the original layout we used birch for all of the wood work. We originaly left the curtain but I replace the curtain with a three section sliding door. With the door partialy opened it acts as a head board for the gaucho. Attachment 75035

Attachment 75036
Klatawa- does the door slide back into a pocket? That is a good detail as well. Also- do you have a source for your door track? Did you custom make the door panels or did they come like that stock?
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Old 02-04-2009, 06:16 AM   #17
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We replaced the door in our Argosy with a stock accordian door from Lowes by just cutting it to fit and using the old hardware to hang it. It's a little tricky, but you just keep adjusting until you get it. Remember that if you are using carpet runners on a wood floor, cut it so it clears the runner. Don't ask how I know this!
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Old 02-04-2009, 01:22 PM   #18
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Modarch- The first door is fixed the next two doors have a wood flange on the back to catch each other when pulling them out or pushing them in. These are custom doors, I plane all of my material down to the thickness that I want. The slider unit is a commercial 48" unit that I cut down to size and fastend into the place that the original curtain was and made a front valance to cover the slide.
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Old 02-05-2009, 07:04 AM   #19
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Klatawa,
That interior is absolutely beautiful!!! Nice work. Can we see what the outside of the trailer looks like??? I am sure it is just as nice as the inside.

I am trying to talk the Mrs. into a vintage unit, but she hates the old interiors. I bet I coult talk her into a vintage unit if I could find one like yours. I would like to attempt a remodel of a vintage unit, but with work and other commitments it would turn into a never ending project.

The other accordian doors are also inspired solutions.
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Old 02-05-2009, 08:22 AM   #20
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Thumbs up 2 Nobel Prizes for Airstream Interior Item Upgrades

Wow some of you guys are so talented.

Jim Foster that is a real neat eyecatching creation.Wish you could post more pix. Closer up of fabric and also with door folded open etc.
Is the material upholstery weight? Would starching and pressing first make any difference or improvement in some fabrics?
Is there any need or advantage to sew in some weights at the bottom?
Are you the sewer or the wife?

Klatawa I had already saved pix of your interior this morning and am glad I opened this thread to learn more.
Beautiful work. When I first saw the pix float by above the portal I figured it was the newest 2009 model. I was staggered when I saw it was a 63 Safari custom job.
What is the "glass" in the doors?
If plastic is it cut from light diffuser screens? You know those drop in covers for flourescent fixtures in commercial settings.
Decorative plastic (maybe plexi) sheets like that were redily available in various textures and colors back in the 70's but are no longer produced that I can find. I think K-Lux was the prevalent brand name back then. Now defunct.
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Old 02-05-2009, 10:50 AM   #21
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When we picked up the Safari the floor had been replaced and most of the original interior reinstalled with the exception of the gaucho. I started by pulling out the front end portion and then decided to completely gut the unit. We used marmolleum for the floor and counter tops. Birch wood was used I purchase all of my wood ruff cut and plane down to the thickness that I want. I also radiused all of the cabinet corners. Deb my wife did all of the upholstery work with a upholstery grade material. We replaced all of the foam which was not cheap. The gaucho was constructed using oak slides using 1/4 aluminum pieces for slides and support the table has hinges routered in so the leafs fold up on top to allow more seating room. It all has been fun and rewarding.Click image for larger version

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Old 02-05-2009, 11:05 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Distantdrummer View Post
Wow some of you guys are so talented.

Jim Foster that is a real neat eyecatching creation.Wish you could post more pix. Closer up of fabric and also with door folded open etc.
Is the material upholstery weight? Would starching and pressing first make any difference or improvement in some fabrics?
Is there any need or advantage to sew in some weights at the bottom?
Are you the sewer or the wife?
This material is fairly heavy, but I don't think it would be heavy enough to do upholstery.
No starching or pressing necessary, I wouldn't.
No weights necessary as the slats used (replacement slats for berticle blinds) do the job very well.
Lynn and I both sew, however Lynn did this project. Next week she will be making another for our '83 27' Excella.
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Old 02-05-2009, 11:13 AM   #23
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accordion folding doors

Very nice job. I gutted my '65 Globetrotter and did a very similar job. Birch sure looks good when it has many layers of varnish on it. I trimmed out all the windows, doors and bathroom in teak to make it look like a wooden sailboat. My only wish is that mt trailer was a little longer. I could sure use three or four feet of interior space. Next trailer will be longer. I love your bathroom door and almost did that as well. Every one one my cabinet corners are custom made. No mitered corners. Kenny
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Old 02-05-2009, 11:54 AM   #24
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Note on the Slats

Important note on the slats


When we made the door in the photos, we used slats that were 2 1/2 inches wide. We have found that all of the manufacturers seem to have gone to 3 1/2 inches wide. When folded, that will make the door nearly four inches wide when you include the 1/4 inch clearance allowance in the pockets and the fold in the material.

So............what we are going to do this time is cut the slats to length, cutting off at the top where the whole is, then cut the slats lengthwise to the 2 1/2 inches we desire. Then make a new hole near one end of each slat, in the middle of the slat, for the key ring. The ring goes through the material, then the slat, then the material. That way, the material is not supporting the slat. The ring supports both the slat and the material.

Being made of light plastic, the slats should cut easily.

Another note

The slats have a slight bow, side to side. When sliding them into the pockets, the first one, nearest the attaching wall, should be done so that the concave side is against the wall, then alternate the slats so that they "nest" and fold tightly together.

We will be making the new door next week. I will post and tell how it comes out, and if I have any trouble cutting the slats. We really don't want them 3 1/5 inches wide.
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Old 02-05-2009, 07:21 PM   #25
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Kannyp315, hope you purchased your teak a while ago, I just purchased some teak from my normal supplier at $35.00 a board ft. to build some wicker/teak doors for our boat. The different types of woods you used should look good with the contrasting colors and grains.
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Old 02-06-2009, 05:59 PM   #26
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Found a vertical blind new, 78" wide, containing 24 (only need 12), 3 1/2" x 80" long slats at a fabric store in Lake Forest CA for $14.99. The slats cut easily with a pair of scissors.

It was cheaper to buy the whole mechanism than just the replacement slats.
The replacements at Home Depot were $12.00 for a package of nine.

Go figure.
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Old 02-07-2009, 01:31 PM   #27
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Arrow Bump to Klatawa

Quote:
Originally Posted by Distantdrummer View Post
Wow some of you guys are so talented.

Klatawa

What is the "glass" in the doors?
If plastic is it cut from light diffuser screens? You know those drop in covers for fluorescent fixtures in commercial settings.
Decorative plastic (maybe plexi) sheets like that were redily available in various textures and colors back in the 70's but are no longer produced that I can find. I think K-Lux was the prevalent brand name back then. Now defunct.
Klatawa I thought you might have missed this part of my question.
So I am bumping it back. Hope you see it.
I suppose you routed the backside of the doors to receive the panels of "glass". How deep ? And what type of sticking holds them in?

Are the frame jambs joined with an overlap joint or dowels or biscuits or what type of connection where the styles mate with the jambs?
Lastly, did you have to use two separate overhead tracks since the motion doors are not on the same plane? Or is it just a standard bi-pass track?

those doors and their header could probably be sold to many Airstreamers if you wanted to produce them. Same for Jim Foster's Accordion customs.
They would fit almost all vintage units I believe.
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Old 02-07-2009, 08:03 PM   #28
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Distantdrummer, Yes they are light difusser screens I cut them on the table saw.
I use a thin cut saw blade to cut a 1/4" deep grove in the edge of all syles and side pieces.
I butt jointed, glued, screwed and plugged all joints with the difusser panels in place.
The slider unit is a 48" commercial that you can purchase at any box store and cut down to fit.
I pruchase all of my material ruff cut and plane down to the dim. I want, these doors are just under 3/4"
If you have any other question just let me know?Click image for larger version

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