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Old 04-19-2013, 11:27 AM   #1
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1979 23' Safari
, Ohio
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'79 Safari - Just need some clarification

My 79 Safari-
I have just begun refurbing the bathroom and what to my surprise? Why, floor rot of course! I've read through several threads on this and the repair steps seem to change based upon the year of the unit.
As I understand it, these are the steps I need to take in order to make this repair:
1. Remove rotted floor
2. Remove lower interior skin for access to the C-channel bolts
3. Remove banana wrap to gain access to underside of C-channel
4. Cut plywood to fit space(s) and replace sections
5. Replace bolts

I have Two big questions:
1. What kind of bolt do I use in a 79 for the C-channel?
2. How do I attach plywood to the other frame members?

Thanks alot,
I'll post pics of the finished refurb.
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:46 PM   #2
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1973 25' Tradewind
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Hi

You use elevator bolts. And also screws. You can see them at Vintage Trailer Supply which is a good resource. I bought mine from there.

Vintage Trailer Supply - parts and supplies for vintage travel trailers and campers!

I would suggest also that you at least paint the edges of your plywood. I epoxied mine.

I had to cut mine to install ( yet to do) Notice the half lap joint I will epoxy and bold through. I will also have an other piece of ply over top as part of my bath rebuild to reinforce the joint even though it doesn't really need it.

I only had to go back to the first x member but thought it would be better to go back 4 feet.

I also painted the frame with POR15 after all the prep. Mine was in pretty good shape to start.

The pic shows a pattern being used before I cut my expensive marine plywood.

Good Luck

Tony
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Old 04-19-2013, 02:56 PM   #3
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1979 23' Safari
, Ohio
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Thanks alot for your post. Do you anticipate any difficulty getting the two-ply into the C-channel? That looks like the same amount of flooring I would like to replace. How did you create your template?
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:07 PM   #4
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1973 25' Tradewind
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I took the scrapes of what was left of the original floor and approximated things on some card board. A 4 x8 sheet you can get from a place that sells plywood.

I cut it in two and fitted it with a sharp utility knife in hand and cut to fit better. Then I used it to make the wood template. The interior will be out which will make it easier. I actually have it in three pieces half lapped over frame member. As said will glue and then reinforced on top although that is not needed. The glue weather titebond three, tite bond 2 or epoxy is stonger that the wood itself.

I think I will have to work a little to get it into place. I will have a flat bar rubber mallet and a chunk or two of 2 x 4 one as counter part, mate, of the half lap. I probably will have a helper.

Take advantage of having the floor out to attend to frame, tanks or whatever.

Tony
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:21 PM   #5
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1979 23' Safari
, Ohio
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Tony,
When you removed the plywood from the rear, did you come across a flat piece of iron sitting on the rear of the frame? I don't know what the purpose of this piece might be, and I am not really sure that is an original part of the trailer. It's badly rusted, so I was planning on pulling it out when I replace the plywood. I try to post a pic of it so you can see if you recognize it from your tear apart.
Thanks
Thom
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Old 04-22-2013, 05:38 PM   #6
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Finger points to the mystery metal(rear bathroom)

Anybody know what the metal plate is? sitting on the rear frame
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:38 PM   #7
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Time's up!

Well, I had to answer my own question. After much research it turns out that the mystery metal piece is a "hold -down plate".
Let the Airstream gods smite me for saying this, but the rear end frame/channel design on this particular year is a pooper. It appears to be designed to rust out the rear frame (via directing all the water from the bumper area towards the floor). Lucky for me, aside from the hold-down plate, the rear frame is pretty solid. I know that the PO kept it under shelter most of the year.

That said, if anyone has any modification ideas to better direct H2O away from the rear frame- please chime in.
I'm gonna use this thread to chronicle my bathroom refurb in case anyone is interested.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:43 PM   #8
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Shower bench repaired

Fiberglassed inner and outer and then smoothed with bondo. Gonna paint sink counter, tub, bench and plastic insert with "Tile-doc" next week.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:45 PM   #9
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Bathroom Floor removed

Bolts were tough to get out, but no match for a grinder.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:47 PM   #10
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Floor out

Floor out
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:48 PM   #11
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Get rid of that bumper plate and put wraps around the back side just like on the sides. Move the plate back and extend the bumper a few inches.

Perry

Quote:
Originally Posted by thomdial View Post
Well, I had to answer my own question. After much research it turns out that the mystery metal piece is a "hold -down plate".
Let the Airstream gods smite me for saying this, but the rear end frame/channel design on this particular year is a pooper. It appears to be designed to rust out the rear frame (via directing all the water from the bumper area towards the floor). Lucky for me, aside from the hold-down plate, the rear frame is pretty solid. I know that the PO kept it under shelter most of the year.

That said, if anyone has any modification ideas to better direct H2O away from the rear frame- please chime in.
I'm gonna use this thread to chronicle my bathroom refurb in case anyone is interested.
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Old 04-25-2013, 06:48 PM   #12
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Ready to make template

laying it out
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Old 04-25-2013, 08:19 PM   #13
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See if this link will help you with the bumper plate issue. It has been over a year and the floor is dry as a bone back there. I coated the new floor with polyurathane. Get rid of all the stinky pink insulation and use something that won't act like a sponge. No insulation is better than the wet stinking pink stuff.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f476...fun-91686.html

Perry
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Old 04-26-2013, 07:38 AM   #14
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Thanks for the info Perry. Regardless of how I go about this, I'm gonna do an extensive water tightness test with a garden hose before I put the floor back in or replace the lower inner skin. That molding that runs over the banana wrap seam seems like a leak source as well.
thom
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