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Old 04-26-2013, 08:49 AM   #15
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It can be a leak source but as long as you have the top edge sealed it should be pretty water tight. I would leave the bottom edge open so water can drain out. The problem with the bumper plate is that the seam is covered by the moulding so you can't see or reseal that area unless you remove the moulding which is a real pain to do once a year, not to mention all the wallowed out rivet holes you are going to have. I am all about low maintenance.

Perry
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:33 AM   #16
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Perry,
I like the way you finished that bumper area. Did you leave the hold plate or remove it?
thanks
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:58 AM   #17
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You have to leave the hold down plate. Most of the contact between the shell and frame is accomplished with that plate. When that plate rusts out and the two bolts on each frame rail rust out the rear end separates. I left the hold down plate in and sectioned the floor. My hold down plate was still intact.

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Old 04-27-2013, 10:16 AM   #18
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You can remove that plate to replace the floor but then you have to have Buck rivets to put back in. If the plate is rusted out you are going to need to make a new hold down plate and use buck rivets to put it back in. This means having a rivet gun and a learning curve for installing the rivets.

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Old 04-27-2013, 11:02 AM   #19
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Good. I really didn't want to mess with the buck rivets.
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:46 AM   #20
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Extra bracing

Decided to add some extra bracing in the bathroom. The plywood is only 7/16. I'm replacing it with treated, but I just don't like the way it feels underfoot. Actually adding two braces that my father (retired sheetmetal worker) made up at the shop. One of the pics is a close-up of one of the angle braces.
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Old 05-04-2013, 07:57 AM   #21
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You don't want to use treated wood because of the acid content. It will eat anything metal that touches it. You also need to make sure there is enough of that hold down plate left to do its job. Did you look at the upper part of it where it goes under the wall skin?




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Old 05-04-2013, 10:23 AM   #22
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agreed

Yes, I believe the treated was a bad idea. I found a sheet of marine that was just a little more than exterior grade that I will use.
Is that plate buck riveted on the exterior wall?
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Old 05-04-2013, 12:08 PM   #23
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The L-Bracket is buck riveted to the back wall of the trailer. Just about all of the frame support for the back half of the trailer is carried by that plate. If there is too much rust there won't be enough of it left to carry the loads. In my opinion, this is a design weakness. There should be support all around the trailer.

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Old 05-04-2013, 12:23 PM   #24
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I can say this. When I removed the floor in the rear(along with all the bolts and screws in the C channel), there was no give whatsoever in the rear. Meaning, I could not widen the gap in the rear between the frame and C channel at all.
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:04 PM   #25
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New floor in

Went with marine plywood. 60 bucks for one sheet. A friend down at the marina recommended polyurethane- said that is what they use a lot on boat floors. He said that sealing in something like epoxy was fine too as long as you seal all your screw and bolt holes, because it will trap moisture. I used one coat of poly, so as not to over do it.
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:21 PM   #26
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Perry,
Your hold down plate is a little different than mine. It would appear from your photo that your rear channel hangs off the back of your frame, and the hold down plated is actually what "holds" them together. My channel sits directly on top of the frame. In fact, I have 7 bolts that anchor it to the frame. Two of these bolts(on the corners) have an iron plate that rests inside the channel for added strength.
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:29 PM   #27
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Here is an illustration by Barts and what he did was real similar to what I did. I did not add extra skin material to the hold down plate area because I did not break the rivets. The L-bracket goes under the floor. The floor will be wedged between the C-channel and the L-bracket. This is why you can't put in a single piece of floor without sectioning it unless you remove the L-Bracket install the floor in one piece from the back and then install the L-Bracket and then drill through all the layers or use existing holes and bolt it all together. I added stiffeners to the top of the C-channel.

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Old 05-08-2013, 11:31 PM   #28
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Stripped off the vinyl clad on one of the interior skins. The rest in the bathroom will be hidden or in closets. Fresh primer coat of KILZ paint.
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