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Old 04-20-2014, 06:02 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Safari-Rick View Post
Beautiful job..... What was it that you said your "full time" occupation was ?
Thanks for the kind words. My day job is Nurse, RN. I've always been interested in fixing up old things, boats, cars, machinery, houses and now people. I'm knee deep in trying to get her ready for this season, working on the front end. That whole process is documented here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...on-115482.html
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Old 04-26-2014, 07:55 PM   #44
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That piece of steel is an important part of the structure in these trailers. It sits underneath the floor and above the frame; all the fasteners in the floor go through it. The C channel and other rivets in the skin go through this as well - it's what ties the back of the shell to the frame.

Our 25' Tradewind does not have the rear door. I removed our rusted piece of steel and after replacing the floor, fabricated a stainless angle that extended higher up the rear. Rather than just relying on the rivets at the C channel to hold things together, I added another row of rivets that tie the skin to the stainless angle.

I'd remove any rivets that go through that rusted stuff and replace it w/ stainless, and then re-rivet.

It's not difficult to fix while you have it apart....

Our rear skin was in poor shape for the bottom couple of inches; I added a doubler behind the skin the full width of the trailer and about one foot high; this doesn't show, of course, so it was easy to put in. The back of our trailer is now quite strong .

- Bart
Bart,
I know this is an older post, so forgive me in advance...
Do you have pics of this? Or, maybe another thread where pics are posted?
Ruck
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Old 04-26-2014, 08:58 PM   #45
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Bart,
I know this is an older post, so forgive me in advance...
Do you have pics of this? Or, maybe another thread where pics are posted?
Ruck
Are you talking about this part that goes crossways at the very back of the trailer?

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Old 04-29-2014, 01:21 AM   #46
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Are you talking about this part that goes crossways at the very back of the trailer?

Yes, sir.
Pics of the repair, preferably...
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Old 04-29-2014, 02:58 AM   #47
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Bart,
I know this is an older post, so forgive me in advance...
Do you have pics of this? Or, maybe another thread where pics are posted?
Ruck
Bart's wife here. He's on a business trip at the moment and may not be checking the forum. I don't think there are any pictures of that part of the repair. I had both cameras out of the country and he was working like a madman after work and on weekends just to get the job done so we could travel in it when I got back. Somewhere, there's a diagram. Photos will have to come from someone else's trailer.
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Old 04-29-2014, 06:28 AM   #48
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Yes, sir.
Pics of the repair, preferably...
Pix are in this thread. Look at posts 14 and 15. I had to cut it out with a sawsall and a metal blade. I ended up using a heavy piece of aluminum angle and put a gasket type material to isolate it from the steel frame below. If you have specific questions, then let me know.
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Old 06-11-2014, 08:46 PM   #49
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Wow!!! What a great bathroom. I don't suppose you could write up exactly how you built the shower plan. I could really use it. Im doing the same thing to my 72 TW and need the help. Thanks so much!!!
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Old 06-11-2014, 09:23 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by aquinob View Post
Pix are in this thread. Look at posts 14 and 15. I had to cut it out with a sawsall and a metal blade. I ended up using a heavy piece of aluminum angle and put a gasket type material to isolate it from the steel frame below. If you have specific questions, then let me know.

PERFECT!
Kinda thought that was gonna be the way to go... appreciate the feedback.
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Old 06-11-2014, 09:39 PM   #51
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Wow!!! What a great bathroom. I don't suppose you could write up exactly how you built the shower plan. I could really use it. Im doing the same thing to my 72 TW and need the help. Thanks so much!!!
Shower pan was an off the shelf item. Responded in your original thread. Here is where I think I got mine: RV Shower Pans - Many Styles for Sale - PPL Motor Homes
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Old 06-11-2014, 11:20 PM   #52
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Attached is a diagram I made after the fact to show how I fixed the rear end separation on our 'Tin Pickle'. The key is to get rid of that hinge support that guide water right onto the plywood.

The shower pan is covered in our blog here:

Tin Pickle Adventures: Shower Pan and Vanity




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Old 06-11-2014, 11:33 PM   #53
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Im glad I don't have the rear end separation as described... I'm good with sheet metal but not that good. I'd like to get the plans for the shower pan Bart built for his TW. That would be a blessing. Or maaaaaaybe Bart could build one for us. hahahaha just kidding. I'd like to give it a shot.
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Old 06-13-2014, 01:01 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by jcain63 View Post
Im glad I don't have the rear end separation as described... I'm good with sheet metal but not that good. I'd like to get the plans for the shower pan Bart built for his TW. That would be a blessing. Or maaaaaaybe Bart could build one for us. hahahaha just kidding. I'd like to give it a shot.
This really isn't difficult. Barbie did most of the work. Figure out which walls can be straight, cut out straight walls and floor section from 1/2" nice hardwood ply. Cut out drain hole. Laminate several pieces of 1/8" luan (soft and easy to sand) to build up floor, leaving a rim for the floor drain. Sand the luan to form topo lines to make sure the pan slopes to the drain from all sides; a belt sander would help here. You can use titebond for this - it's easier than epoxy. Pattern and cut curved walls from luan, glue into place.Make sure assembly fits and can be installed and removed. Add additional layer of luan (cut into close fitting pieces if necessary) to curved wall for strength.

Remove to outside working area.

Mix epoxy + filler to thick paste and cove all inside corners and any gaps on inside. Wait until hard; sand smooth (one of those feit-style sanders comes in very handy in corners). Cover inside corners with fiberglass tape and epoxy; let cure and sand if needed. Fill any ridges with epoxy + filler and sand when cured. Cover inside with glass cloth and work epoxy through until cloth is transparent. and there's no separation. You'll need to cut the cloth to fit the inside. If recommended, wet sand after epoxy cures to remove any amine blush. Radius outside seams with sander to min. 1/8" radius. Cover outside seams with epoxy and fiberglass tape (2"-3" wide) to seal and strengthen. Cover any visible external walls with epoxy & glass. Add additional coats inside and out as recommended by epoxy maker; tint final coats (usually white) to hide construction details.

Remember to leave a way of fastening pan down; just the drain flange isn't enough usually.

This is not difficult, and it's usually easy to correct mistakes. Watch out for things moving and growing; check fit often.

Good luck -

- Bart
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Old 06-13-2014, 06:04 AM   #55
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This is a big help Bart!!!! Thanks again! I'm feeling good about this.
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Old 03-04-2015, 10:48 PM   #56
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1974 27' Overlander
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Your Sink Assembly

Hi, Is there any chance of buying your sink assembly and the plastic parts underneath it? I need one for my '74 Overlander which was missing the tub and sink parts when I bought it. Have a tub now but still need the counter-top parts. Otherwise will have to figure out how to build one for it.
Thanks
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