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Old 02-09-2013, 08:46 AM   #15
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A little more progress this week. Pulled the rest of the belly pan from right before the axles back to the rear of the trailer. Removed all the pink insulation and found that the frame and floor are in remarkable condition for 40 years. A bit of staining on the plywood in one area but I think that was due to a leak that might have come from the bathroom at one point. Plywood was solid so no worries.

I also dropped both axles. I'm waiting on finding a welder to weld the shock brackets on, got one quote of 125 to do all four, but the guy never showed back to do it. In the mean time I got the frame cleaned up with wirebrush, put some ospho on it and then primed it. Waiting on some warmer weather to finish painting it. I'm also going to get the foam board insulation this week and get that part done while we have some warmer weather in the forecast.

As for that extra steel angle iron, that I removed after cutting the bottom off and then judiciously drilling rivets or cutting them off with a cold chisel.


You can see the steel cross member here, its rusted but still substantial enough to do the job.



Frame and floor in good condition considering the age of the trailer:







Now I need to find a 3" piece of aluminum L channel. Went to the local big boxes and biggest they had was 2" which may work if I cant get anything else. I'd like to have this all buttoned up by the end of this coming week to mount the axles. Will see how close I get to that estimate...
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Old 02-11-2013, 04:21 PM   #16
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Had some luck over the weekend. Got a lead on a guy doing welding on the side from craigslist. Sent an email and he called me back, said he would come by in a couple of hours (Sunday). Nice young guy, works at a local shipyard (we have a bunch here next to Norfolk) and does it on the side. Gave me a price of 100 bucks to do all four brackets. When he was done I let him have the old axles for free, he can get a few more bucks for scrap with em and I didn't have to mess with them.






Primed up:




Hopefully will have these on by next weekend and get the trailer off the jack stands.
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:13 PM   #17
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Just a thought. Im turning my water tank into a gray tank. I'll put my new water tank in the back of my truck with the pumps. When I go boondocking I'll have fresh water. When I run out I just unhook and get more
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Old 02-11-2013, 05:43 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Thisisliving View Post
Just a thought. Im turning my water tank into a gray tank. I'll put my new water tank in the back of my truck with the pumps. When I go boondocking I'll have fresh water. When I run out I just unhook and get more
Thats an interesting thought. Since the water tank is fairly far forward, that would entail running the sewer back from the bath, plumbing in a vent and then running the discharge all the way back aft. But if you do it, I'd like to see it.

One thought I had was to put an extra gate valve in right before the discharge so I could close that while opening the black valve essentially turning the tank into a black and gray tank in a pinch. I don't anticipate us doing much or any boondocking, but if we were on the road, it would let us use the toilet or run a sink to wash hands. We would then dump it when we get where we are going.
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Old 02-19-2013, 06:52 PM   #19
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I have been keeping up a reasonable pace on the trailer, trying to get it ready for the axles as well as upgrading the insulation for the floor. The chassis frame was in good shape with only surface rust, so it was cleaned up with a wire brush and painted with rustoleum primer. I picked up some sheets of the pink 3/4" XPS foam boards from HD and made a two layer sandwich for a total of 1.5" or R8. I sealed the edges with duct tape and mounted them with 2" coated deck screws and large fender washers.



A bit more work has been done on the bath floor. I have cleaned things up and primed and painted the frame in that area as well and then using some masonite, made a template for the floor section. That was cut out and then I started making cuts for the black tank protrusions. This took several tries, never getting it quite right till I realized that the tank was moving a bit every time I slid it back up to check. So I finally got smarter and cut the holes way bigger and then positioned the tank where I knew it needed to go. At that point I used duck tape to mark the positions for the cut.





Marked with tape:



So once the masonite template was finished I used it to transfer the lines to a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" ply. Unfortunately for me, it was pressure treated ply. So after I got the wood cut and slid inside, I kept reading about the issues it has with aluminum and steel and decided it wasnt worth the risk. Monday I picked up a sheet of exterior rated ply and using the template, cut that and swapped the two pieces out. It was much quicker the second time around. No pix of the latest floor version, but here is the PT version for the short time it was inside.

Floor inside but not installed yet.



Getting the floor underneath the shell took some time and sweat. While the 1/8th inch masonite slid in easily, the 3/4 ply did not. In the end I had to trim about a 1/4" of the aluminum overhang on the side by the heater in order to get the wood to go underneath and even then, it was back and forth with the shell side oilcanning a bit, but with no permanent damage. By the time I did it the second time, I had it down to 10 minutes.

I still have to fasten the wood to the frame and then drill and fasten the shell to the wood. I'm going to wrap the ends of the ply with some aluminum flashing as well as seal them up with some paint when the temps go up a bit. I've got all stainless hardware to tie the shell and floor together so that hopefully wont rot out in 40 years like the old steel ones did. All in all its coming together, but slower than I would like. I start my new job next week, so things will really slow down. I'm also hoping to get the axles mounted as well, but that is another story.
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:18 PM   #20
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Today I finished up mounting the axles and getting the trailer back on rubber and off the jack stands. I posted that update over in the axles section so that down the road, folks looking for info on that subject would be better able to find it.

Here is a direct link if you're interested: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f437...es-101681.html

And here she sits about 4" higher on her new axles:

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Old 04-25-2013, 06:54 PM   #21
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OK, it's been a while since I've updated the progress. Been working fairly regularly on the old girl, but it seemed as if there was not a whole lot to show for the time I've been putting in on it. But I am definitely over the hump and starting to reconstruct and it's a very good feeling.


Going back a month or so, I was able to get some aluminum locally for a really good price and with it I remade the lower wraps that are behind both wheel wells. The driver side was in really bad shape, having been patched at one point and having some damage from the PO and some sort of road debris. Here are the old parts laid out flat ready to be copied. Of course I had to have some supervision.









Pattern traced out on new metal.






First side cut out. This aluminum was .040, would have been a bit easier to work if it was .032 .


Working on the second part. The orange tool is a harbor freight sheet metal shear, about 32 bucks, well worth it IMHO. Once you get the hang of it, it makes a fairly smooth cut very quickly.






Passenger side <points up> and driver side <points down>









Besides getting the sheet metal fixed I have been making progress on the bath interior. The plan is to replace the old tub with a shower and update all the plumbing with pex. I'll also be making a corian countertop for the bath that will run from side to side just like the old counter. I've got a nice stainless oval sink to go into the counter and will be making a new floor to ceiling cabinet to go over the water heater.


Here you can see the drain from the sink redirected down under the floor and an extra 3/4" layer of plywood to sit the shower base on. I needed the extra clearance to accommodate the drain which is very close to the black water tank box on one side.


The new drain line going south:






The new shower base in place. Held in with some construction adhesive.


Some underside plumbing, again a very tight fit up against the box for the black tank.






The new drain sits behind the black tank and ties into the old abs pipe.






The new shower will run back to the side wall, with a seat made out of corian.





The new vent line that services both the black tank and the sink drain:

New pex plumbing. I reused the old pressure relief valve but installed a new check valve.








Pressure tested the system, all the pex is good, one small leak where it joins up with the existing copper. Its under the bunk and the copper seems to resist being cleaned up well enough to let the solder flow. I'll get back to it, but I'm happy with the progress. So that's it for now, will be working the next 4 out of 5 days, so probably no progress for another week or so. Thanks for looking.





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Old 05-07-2013, 02:11 PM   #22
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Bob you doing an awesome job where is you local source for aluminum? And yes once I finish with the carave with Jeannie I am going to find a 74 overlander for me I will go as old as a 72 but not any newer. Thanks for the post and all the pictures!
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:15 PM   #23
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Making slow progress in the bathroom remodel

It's not done yet, but it's getting closer. I've managed to mount the shower base and plumb in the drain and have made progress on the new cabinetry for the surround and the sink base as well as a tall cabinet to serve for most of the linens. All the wood is a light colored hardwood plywood from lowes and some soft maple that I've ripped down to make the face frames. I'm keeping my fingers crossed on the plywood, it seems fairly decent, not too many voids and should look good enough with a very light colored stain and varnish and should match the maple well enough. I havent decided yet whether to do full rail and style doors or do something with the plywood and a hardwood edge.

The shower stall walls will get covered with some white fiberglass reinforced plastic (FRP) panels also from Lowes. The original white panel will get a covering as will the vertical surfaces that see water from the shower. The horizontal tops will get covered in some corian and will act as a seat or spot to sit shampoo and toiletries. The shower will be a hand wand with a hook up towards the ceiling to spray downward. This configuration has lots more room than the previous tub and the surrounding cabinets. I do have a couple of holes to patch up where I had to reroute some wiring to a thermostat and the lights over the bunks.


Shower base with seats:



Another angle:




The sink base and new sink, a stainless oval. Counter will be corian scribed to fit:




The new tall cabinet going over the water heater:




Yes, it will be a bit of a tight fit for the toilet. Unfortunately I didnt have that many options when it came to this one. I will box in the back area over the plumbing and that will also get covered with the same white FRP which should keep it all pretty waterproof. I havent decided on what type of flooring to put down yet, but it wont be parquet, thats for sure. Hoping to make some progress on this in the next few weeks so we can get her back on the road in June. Wish me luck.
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Old 05-26-2013, 02:35 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by RM66caravel View Post
Bob you doing an awesome job where is you local source for aluminum? And yes once I finish with the carave with Jeannie I am going to find a 74 overlander for me I will go as old as a 72 but not any newer. Thanks for the post and all the pictures!

There is a little place here in Portsmouth, United Sheet metal on Virginia Ave. Its a fabrication shop, but the old guy that runs the place doesnt seem to be averse to selling me metal or doing some cuts for me on their big shears either. As a matter of fact, when I was last there and told him what I was using the metal for, he told me that a long time ago he actually rebuilt an airstream including making the ribs for it. He's kinda gruff looking and dont go there when he and the boys are on lunch break, but I have no complaints, especially for the price I've gotten the metal for. A while back I had them make me a new door panel for an old delta wood lathe and they were able to punch the louvers in it as well.
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:45 PM   #25
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Still making progress on the bathroom. Got some of the FRP up on the wall and today I started cutting the corian I've had rat-holed for a while looking for a suitable project. I knew this would be tight, I had about 5' of it left and I wanted to make a counter top as well as the two horizontal surfaces inside the shower. The counter itself was about 60" long so I had to cut judiciously in order to have enough to finish everything.

If you have never worked with corian or some other solid surface, its fairly straightforward, cuts with ordinary woodworking tools. I use epoxy to glue it together, I'm sure corian has some special adhesive they work with that is only sold to licensed installers, but most likely its just an different type of epoxy glue with colored filler. I've had good success with just standard epoxy, and I cant see the joint. YYMV.
Here are some pictures of the progress.

Making the initial cuts:





Most cuts done, finish up with jigsaw:




First test fit in the bathroom:




Besides using the track saw and jigsaw, I used the bandsaw to make the curved cuts on the two pieces for the shower seats.




Fit looks good so far:




Cutting corian sure makes lots of "snow".



Now I need to glue up some edging on all the pieces and then rout some nice edges on it. All corian countertops are 1/2", they only look thicker due to the built up edge. I also need to cut the holes for the sink, the faucets and finish up with the FRP. I've also got some plastic 1/4 round to clean up the joints where the bulkhead wall meets the curved wall on the side. Like all bathroom jobs, they look lots nicer once you clean up all the raw ends with molding and caulk.

Thanks for looking.
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Old 06-01-2013, 06:59 PM   #26
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Still making progress on the bathroom. Got some of the FRP up on the wall and today I started cutting the corian I've had rat-holed for a while looking for a suitable project. I knew this would be tight, I had about 5' of it left and I wanted to make a counter top as well as the two horizontal surfaces inside the shower. The counter itself was about 60" long so I had to cut judiciously in order to have enough to finish everything.

If you have never worked with corian or some other solid surface, its fairly straightforward, cuts with ordinary woodworking tools. I use epoxy to glue it together, I'm sure corian has some special adhesive they work with that is only sold to licensed installers, but most likely its just an different type of epoxy glue with colored filler. I've had good success with just standard epoxy, and I cant see the joint. YMMV.
Here are some pictures of the progress.

Making the initial cuts:





Most cuts done, finish up with jigsaw:




First test fit in the bathroom:




Besides using the track saw and jigsaw, I used the bandsaw to make the curved cuts on the two pieces for the shower seats.




Fit looks good so far:




Cutting corian sure makes lots of "snow".



Now I need to glue up some edging on all the pieces and then rout some nice edges on it. All corian countertops are 1/2", they only look thicker due to the built up edge. I also need to cut the holes for the sink, the faucets and finish up with the FRP. I've also got some plastic 1/4 round to clean up the joints where the bulkhead wall meets the curved wall on the side. Like all bathroom jobs, they look lots nicer once you clean up all the raw ends with molding and caulk.

Thanks for looking.
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Old 06-04-2013, 05:01 PM   #27
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Couple more shots of the bathroom countertop. Glued up some edging and trimmed and routed it, cut the hole for the sink and faucet. Bit by bit I'm getting closer to getting her back on the road.





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Old 06-04-2013, 06:06 PM   #28
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Thanks for the excellent pictures. I'm pondering replacing the pipes in my '74 overlander with PEX and figured I may end up knee deep in a bathroom restoration at the same time.

-Creech
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