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Old 06-21-2008, 09:27 PM   #1
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Profile:  1975 31' Sovereign
, various
Posts: 359

Question 70's era Metal Ceiling Specs and R & R (Remove & Replace) Facts

OK I don't have any facts on: And there are few threads on this subject that I have found or recall seeing. Remember I am seeking 70-80 era info.
So I ask:
  • what is behind the ceiling,
  • what is space to roof?
  • does insulation tend to settle or stay well in place up there?
  • what holds ceiling up?
  • how to remove it,
  • replace it,
  • is this a monumental task for single person?
  • what size the panels are. exact please. Mine is a 31' RB.
  • anything special about the edges of the ceiling panels such as crimping etc?
  • Is the channel along each side still available?
  • Is there a better channel alternative?
Any direction or ideas or just useful conjecture would be appreciated.

thanks
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Old 06-21-2008, 11:41 PM   #2
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Profile:  Corona , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Distantdrummer View Post
OK I don't have any facts on: And there are few threads on this subject that I have found or recall seeing. Remember I am seeking 70-80 era info.
So I ask:
  • what is behind the ceiling,
  • what is space to roof?
  • does insulation tend to settle or stay well in place up there?
  • what holds ceiling up?
  • how to remove it,
  • replace it,
  • is this a monumental task for single person?
  • what size the panels are. exact please. Mine is a 31' RB.
  • anything special about the edges of the ceiling panels such as crimping etc?
  • Is the channel along each side still available?
  • Is there a better channel alternative?
Any direction or ideas or just useful conjecture would be appreciated.

thanks
All those questions have lengthy answers.

A service manual would answer all of them, and more.

What year is your Airstream?

Andy
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Old 06-22-2008, 03:47 PM   #3
Rivet Master
Profile:  1975 29' Ambassador
Reno , Nevada
Posts: 1,065

I agree with Andy that the full answer is not so simple. It is very interesting to take apart the inside of an Airstream and try to figure out why it was built that way and the purpose of what you find (other than a dead squirrel or similar artifact sometimes).

Basically there is an inch and half of space filled by fiberglass insulation between ribs that is prevented from bunching by some internal strips of aluminum in strategic places.

The interior skin rivetted to ribs by rivets is an important part of the structure. A key is the panel at the top with its two rails - that's a pop in fit. The ribs have dimples for wiring and both the outer and inner skin are riveted to them.

I would not consider dealing with the inside skin a one man job. The panels are large and a relatively heavy gauge. From taking apart a '75, I don't see any special tools or techniques as being required, just the patience to deal with lots and lots of rivets!

In some areas (kitchen or bath expecially) you may find more than one layer of inside skin. If you have the vista view windows, the screen for them is just a slide - seemed rather crudely mounted to me. When the edges of a panel are exposed, they are covered with just a simple plastic trim.

Taking it apart is the easy part of the job. Getting it back together again can be interesting. I am heartened by the fact that it appears a number of folks around here have managed the task.
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Old 06-22-2008, 04:04 PM   #4
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Profile:  Corona , California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leipper View Post
I agree with Andy that the full answer is not so simple. It is very interesting to take apart the inside of an Airstream and try to figure out why it was built that way and the purpose of what you find (other than a dead squirrel or similar artifact sometimes).

Taking it apart is the easy part of the job. Getting it back together again can be interesting. I am heartened by the fact that it appears a number of folks around here have managed the task.
The interior metal must never be removed, UNLESS THE CHASSIS IS FIRST PROPERLY SUPPORTED.

If not, the shell and frame will droop out of position, making the reinstallation of the interior panels very difficult, because the rivet holes will not line up.

If the droop is ignored and new holes are made for the interior metal, the the trailer will forever have a locked in droop.

Andy
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