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02-04-2008, 05:20 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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66 Overlander Revamp in Progress
I started this project a couple of months ago and the weather went bad - real bad...
I am moving the thread here now that we know it is a 196 6 ...lol and it will show my progress as I go.
Start ... how she looked the day I brought it home.
Following up with the after gutting photos.
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02-04-2008, 05:25 PM
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#2
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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After Gutting
From yesterday:
I spent a day removing the whole interior. Don't mind the mess... I was just working around it all.
You will significant water damage, but it is all at the rear.
My plan is to do a shell-on floor replacement from the rear axle to the rear of the trailer.
Tomorrow is the floor removal time.
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02-04-2008, 05:44 PM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Madison
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 396
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Good start for a phot log. I wish I had done better on my on going project. It looks like you still have a couple of hours work left........keep posting updates, I love looking at these types of projects. Best wishes!
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02-04-2008, 05:45 PM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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Removing bad floor.
I spent about four hours cutting out the bad sections (a little more left to do.)
Tomorrow morning, I will finish removing the bad sections, grind off old bolts, remove the remaining interior wall panels, and have a cold one (or two).
The master plan:
~ Pull all interior wall panels and replace. Found perfect material at Lowe's. Am labeling old panels and will use them as a pattern with rivet holes as well.
~ Completely rewire while the interior wall panels are off.
~ Rear queen bed, closet from height of bed to celing at one end.
~ Stand up shower, sink, and toilet in new bathroom over the axles.
~ New stove, sink, cabinets at kitchen.
~ Traffic Master Morocco Slate flooring throughout.
~ Complete exterior clear coat stripping and polish.
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02-04-2008, 05:53 PM
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#5
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4 Rivet Member
1973 31' Sovereign
Bertram
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 277
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Excellent phot log! Are you looking at one of the epoxy or reson pannels for deck or sticking with x plywood?
rob
__________________
Catmando
"There’s not much in life we can’t over-analyze”
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02-04-2008, 05:57 PM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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Right now...
I am going to replace the missing pieces with 5/8 plywood. I will then seal it all up real good to help slow down further damage.
I am keeping the weight down in other areas so I think I may go over the whole thing with 3/8 or 1/4 and seal the two together.
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02-06-2008, 06:32 PM
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#7
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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More progress
First off... I hate rivets!!!
Not really, but a few notes if you pulling the interior walls off.
~ Get a sharpie to label the back of every piece. Use up and front arrows and say it's position. Whether you are reusing the pieces or plan on using them as a pattern, you are going to need this.
~ If you don't own a shopvac. Get one! Get a big one! This is a messy job.
~ Wear eye protection and a mask for filtration. If you are doing an older trailer, you will not believe what falls out of there, not to mention 40+ year old insulation.
~ Get lots of drill bits. 1/8" is working great for me.
So, I spent all of today pulling panels. I am going to be replacing mine, so I was careful not to do too much damage so I can use them as patterns for the new material.
I am also putting all new wiring in. Good thing too, I think she would have went up in flames if I would have plugged it in as it sat. There were burns from shorting all over the place.
Wasp nests! Jeesh. If for no other reason, this was worth it to get those out of between the panels. I cringed at the thought of all of them waking up while I was camping. That would be fun, eh?
Ok, so here are the photos from today.
Will update again tomorrow. I should be able to have all of the interior walls pulled by then.
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02-06-2008, 11:11 PM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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Layout Plan
This is a proposed layout for the finished trailer. I am already working on the cabinets which will mostly be over the wheel wells.
I welcome any comments or suggestions.
The full size bed is done. I have the 'captains bed' style box all ready to go.
The refrig is a top access style that is all stainless. It is like the supermarket style with sliding doors on top.
Click and maximize the new window to view.
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02-06-2008, 11:32 PM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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What do you think of this idea?
Once she is finished, she'll be permanently parked at a year round rv park type resort.
I have year round electric and sewer but no water, so I will have to haul water each time I go.
I was thinking of making a miniature AS that houses a 125 gallon water tank, on a trailer. The 125 gal tank that I had in mind is 32" in diameter and 40" long. I think I could get away with making the finished size 4'long by 3'wide.
I would then just haul the small trailer up as needed and park it right next to my Overlander, hook up the water, and away she goes.
Any thoughts?
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02-06-2008, 11:41 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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After further review, you have a 66 trailer, not a 67 that I previously stated.
The tail lights say that, the windows say that, and the way the furnace is mounted says that.
The bad part is the entrance door is warped. The frame is cast, therefore you cannot simply bend the door back into shape. Instead the frame must be cut, reshaped and heliarced back together. There are several posts that go into detail.
Also from your photo's it appears that perhaps the axles might be on their last leg. Checking them out can be done in less than one minute.
Andy
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02-07-2008, 09:06 AM
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#11
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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We went through this in another thread.
And then I started this one as a photo log of my progress, so I don't want this one to end up like the last one.
But just for kicks...
1. We concluded that the year was 1965 from the plate. I have attached a photo below. Can the plate be wrong?
2. How is the door warped? Everything with the door works perfectly. What photo of the door makes you think it is warped? Opens and closes, seals tight, etc. What's wrong with it?
3. I read your thread with reference to axles and everything looked perfect, just as you said it should be.
1133 65
LAND YACHT
A TRAVEL TRAILER
SI 26 S 6525
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02-07-2008, 09:22 AM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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Just realized
that in my first post I listed that second 'S' as a '5'. Oops. Crow tastes like .....
It does say SI 26 S 6525
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02-07-2008, 09:26 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1967 28' Ambassador
1963 19' Globetrotter
1970 29' Ambassador
Waukesha
, Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,180
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HERE is the key to the code from the Airstream Inc. website.
This is how your VIN translates with one caviot
(S) California model
(I) International model
(26) length
(S) this is the mystery???
(6) 1966
(525) sequencial production number. Over 500 means it has a double bed.
One possible explaination: If you look at the decoder page you will notice that in 1966 the "S" for California is in the 1st position... in 1967 it moved to the 5th position. You may have a VIN plate that was stamped in error placing the "S" at both locations... kind of like in January when we still write the wrong year on our checks.
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02-07-2008, 09:32 AM
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#14
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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Here we go again....lol
Well, in any case I am going out to work on my 1964,5,6,7 mystery trailer right now. More pics coming later today.
If anybody knows what the mystery 'S' means, let us all know!
Thanks. Rivet time...
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02-07-2008, 09:38 AM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1967 28' Ambassador
1963 19' Globetrotter
1970 29' Ambassador
Waukesha
, Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 1,180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWOverlander
If anybody knows what the mystery 'S' means, let us all know!
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NWO,
While you were typing this... I edited my above post to include one possible explaination... check it out.
Glad to see you are getting your hands dirty...good luck!
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02-07-2008, 09:43 AM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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Moderator
If everybody agrees now that this is a 66, can you change my thread title and references to '65'? I hate to start this all over again, again.
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02-07-2008, 11:02 AM
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#17
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Currently Looking...
Jupiter
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,060
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The very first picture if viewed full size shows ominous shadow lines on the door panel to shell frame interface that widen the farther away hinges one looks. Maybe a mild case of fly-open in its past, looks more than stiff gasket tension for sure.
Great energy and execution, pray don't falter, people are watching now
__________________
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
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02-07-2008, 11:21 AM
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#18
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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Will check door.
Thank you for clarifying. I will check that out right now. Never noticed before. It closes tight, doesn't move/wiggle/etc., but I appreaciate you both pointing it out.
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02-07-2008, 06:03 PM
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#19
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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Progress! All walls out and elect pulled!
Long day.
Found the wasp nest from uknowhere....
Here are some up-to-the minute photos:
Not sure what tomorrow brings. I will probably be doing a little dent/crease rolling. May begin putting in new electric wiring.
Should..... fix the floor first...
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02-08-2008, 09:11 AM
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#20
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3 Rivet Member
1966 26' Overlander
Prosser
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 119
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12-2 MC for Wiring?
Any issues with using metal clad 12-2 for interior 120V wiring?
Am I wrong in thinking that this would work great?
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