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Old 02-09-2008, 11:55 PM   #29
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Feb 09 Progress

More busy work - photos to come in the am.

I did one whole side of the exterior with Auto Strip to remove the clear coat and other .... This stuff works great. I wish I would have known about it when I was working on a couple old cars. Anyway, did half the trailer and will post before and after tomorrow. Even without polish it took years off the exterior appearance.

Also spent some time working on the exposed frame parts. Removed rust as much as possible by hand and then used Naval Jelly (also really great product) to clean the rest off. Will paint in the am and post photos as well.

Productive day but not as much as I would like to get done.

Am trying something different for replacing the floor panels (or at least getting a pattern for the back end without having to lift the shell. First using drop line around edges where the rear endcap connected and measuring the distance from bottom of line to inside edge of c-channel.

Will then use the end cap as a pattern for getting the curve and move in from that edge the distance as measured.

Doing this on cardboard to get the curve matched, and then will use the cardboard as a pattern on the plywood.

That's the plan anyway - whether or not it will work is yet to be seen.

Confidence is high.
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Old 02-10-2008, 06:12 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by NWOverlander
Well, in any case I am going out to work on my 1964,5,6,7 mystery trailer right now. More pics coming later today.

If anybody knows what the mystery 'S' means, let us all know!

Thanks. Rivet time...
It stands for SUPER. As in you are doing super job on your 64,65,66,67 Airstream.
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Old 02-10-2008, 12:21 PM   #31
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Ha!

I wish that were true!

Thanks for saying that, though. It is appreciated. More motivation to keep on keepin' on!

My wife is raving about your interior. You may have gotten her inspired as well.

What exact flooring did you use?
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Old 02-10-2008, 03:14 PM   #32
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You have me laughing now... you must be looking at the before pictures. The previous owner installed vinyl sheet flooring, I think that is what you wife is seeing. Photos do not always tell the truth, that flooring looks very bad up close and is too busy for such a small space. I will be using a cork floor for the new flooring. My blog has the now pictures. Two weeks ago the back half of my trailer looked like yours does now. Good luck with your 64,65,66,67 Airstream.
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Old 02-10-2008, 03:39 PM   #33
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Double Ha!

Good. I wasn't terribly fond of the black and white but she loves it for some reason... lol

I think I can talk her out of it, especially since I already have the stuff I was going to use purchased.... That should change her mind!

Honey (my wife), if you are reading this, I already bought the flooring. Don't worry, you'll like it. There is a photo down below here.

There, now she knows.

Whew, glad that's out of the way!

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Old 02-10-2008, 11:32 PM   #34
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I would hesitate on the aluminum spiral armored cable since it is stiff but live enough vibration could find a spot in resonance and get sliced through rapidly on a sharp edge.

Explore the plastic corrugated flex automotive style armor - others have used it well in rehab applications, there are engineered systems but you only need the tube to protect romex passing through sharp aluminum passages.

Also beware bulk slathering of Vulkem or other 'caulk' over existing interior seam sealant, my 73 had a Vulkem on rear end cap interior that freeze cycles and time turned into bladders that wept out water when lifting shell during floor work. Once their original sealant loses its bite on the aluminum a leak can/will telegraph a considerable distance.

Others may know better on your Vintage AS but I suggest if you have a confirmed leak a heatgun to soften old sealant and lift & scrape the compromised area away and reseal, otherwise just the alcoa seal or silkaflex over exterior seam lines and some spot treatment inside.
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Old 02-11-2008, 10:02 AM   #35
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That is the reason

I thought the metal clad would be better. It would take some serious vibration to cut throught it, I would think. I was going to use rubber hose where the MC passes through the frame to stop rubbing. If that isn't going to work, now is the time to fine out.

As soon as I am done with her, I am pulling 90 miles to a lake and she will stay sitting there for many years. I don't plan on pulling her except for the once. But, I also don't want to mess it up if I decide to sell her sometime down the road.

So, is it the metal clad or no?
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Old 02-11-2008, 11:40 PM   #36
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Aluminum MC is problematic to install. The bare crew type clamp works poorly with the soft aluminum; deforms it badly and easily pulls free. I've used romex saddle type clamps with good results, ensure you use the red plastic wire protector inserts, the small tab is meant to protrude from clamp slot for inspectors, and cut the coil without leaving 'inside' jagged edges. Also some price leader aluminum MC has an aluminum ground that is nearly useless and/or reduced ground conductor size, and can have reduced conductor insulation thickness from the MC designation.

But hey, what do I know. I'd go with the flat style romex and oversize it one grade and use guards going through sheet metal and not look back.
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Old 02-12-2008, 12:34 AM   #37
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Convinced.

You talked me out of it.

Regular ol' 12-2 is what i will use.

I just thought it would actually be of benefit. Should listen to my wife... 'Stop thinking..'

Thanks!
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Old 02-13-2008, 10:39 AM   #38
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Sub-Floor in!

I keep forgetting to take pictures before it gets dark.

I managed to get the replacement subfloor pieces installed over the last couple of days and did a mock up of how shelving, etc. will be sitting.

Well, that made me realize I had squeezed to much in that little space. Reworking all of that right now.

Will get some photos up when I get home.


Question--

I am going to be hooked up to full time sewer. My two sinks are forward of the toilet. If I put a small black water tank under the toilet, can I run the water from the two sinks through it and into the sewer to help keep everything flowing good?

Simple mockup of the scenario below.... will of course have traps, etc.

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Old 02-13-2008, 02:33 PM   #39
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Best to not leave the black tank open all the time. All the liquids will drain off an leave the solids behind. With an RV toilet you don't get the "big flush" to wash the solids down. It's not a bad idea to give yourself the option to run the grey water through the black tank, but if you only run into a small back tank you may find yourself dumping a lot.

You might consider installing a macerator and then you can evacuate your waist with the flip of a switch.
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Old 02-13-2008, 03:29 PM   #40
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You could be on the right track

I would suggest this,

In your drawing, add another "fluid" drain line off the side of the black tank near the top. This would allow the gray water to enter the black tank, drain off as the black/gray water gets near the top. Also, by having the primary drain for dumping at the bottom, you will still get the tank cleared out.

In the end, this method would work very much like a home "septic tank drain field" setup. As with the above, in them config. the "septic tank" fills up and only the water goes into the "drain field". Also, FYI, the pipe that connects into the side(on the top) must have a 90 degree elbow pointing down into the black tank a few inches. This reduces the chance of "floaters" clogging up the drain pipe on the top.
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Old 02-13-2008, 05:11 PM   #41
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And then I started this one as a photo log of my progress, so I don't want this one to end up like the last one.

But just for kicks...

1. We concluded that the year was 1965 from the plate. I have attached a photo below. Can the plate be wrong?

2. How is the door warped? Everything with the door works perfectly. What photo of the door makes you think it is warped? Opens and closes, seals tight, etc. What's wrong with it?

3. I read your thread with reference to axles and everything looked perfect, just as you said it should be.


Attachment 53906

1133 65
LAND YACHT
A TRAVEL TRAILER
SI 26 S 6525

You have a 1966 Airstream 26 foot International trailer, made in Santa Fe Springs, California.

Andy
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Old 02-13-2008, 11:12 PM   #42
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Thanks Andy

Thanks Andy.

Is that what the extra 'S' means? Santa Fe Springs?
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