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Old 02-07-2008, 10:38 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWOverlander

If anybody knows what the mystery 'S' means, let us all know!
NWO,

While you were typing this... I edited my above post to include one possible explaination... check it out.

Glad to see you are getting your hands dirty...good luck!
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Old 02-07-2008, 10:43 AM   #16
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If everybody agrees now that this is a 66, can you change my thread title and references to '65'? I hate to start this all over again, again.
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Old 02-07-2008, 12:02 PM   #17
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The very first picture if viewed full size shows ominous shadow lines on the door panel to shell frame interface that widen the farther away hinges one looks. Maybe a mild case of fly-open in its past, looks more than stiff gasket tension for sure.

Great energy and execution, pray don't falter, people are watching now
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Old 02-07-2008, 12:21 PM   #18
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Will check door.

Thank you for clarifying. I will check that out right now. Never noticed before. It closes tight, doesn't move/wiggle/etc., but I appreaciate you both pointing it out.
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Old 02-07-2008, 07:03 PM   #19
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Progress! All walls out and elect pulled!

Long day.

Found the wasp nest from uknowhere....

Here are some up-to-the minute photos:

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Not sure what tomorrow brings. I will probably be doing a little dent/crease rolling. May begin putting in new electric wiring.

Should..... fix the floor first...
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Old 02-08-2008, 10:11 AM   #20
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12-2 MC for Wiring?

Any issues with using metal clad 12-2 for interior 120V wiring?


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Am I wrong in thinking that this would work great?
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Old 02-08-2008, 10:21 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWOverlander
Any issues with using metal clad 12-2 for interior 120V wiring?
Am I wrong in thinking that this would work great?
...A couple things come to mind

1. Dissimilar metals corrosion where the cladding contacts the aluminum (I don't think the wire cladding is Aluminum).

2. I assume the metal clad wire weighs more... likely not much, but you'll find a lot of "not much's" can add up to a whole lot.

It is shiney and silver though!
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Old 02-08-2008, 10:29 AM   #22
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The metal clad is aluminum-

At least the ones I am looking at are aluminum. A 100' roll is surprisingly light. I expected a lot more weight, but it really isn't bad. 13 pounds for the whole roll.

So with that, can you think of any other reason not to use it? I want this to be a one time thing and this is more economical that running conduit.

After seeing the old wiring that I just pulled yesterday, I am not wanting to go that route.
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Old 02-08-2008, 10:39 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWOverlander
At least the ones I am looking at are aluminum. ... this is more economical that running conduit.
Definitely not conduit! You trailer should have had plastic jacked "romex" type wire.

One other issue with the metal jacket wire might be whether your boxes will accommodate the appropriate "BX" connectors.

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Old 02-08-2008, 11:42 AM   #24
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Was in very bad shape

The old wiring was terrible. Lots of shorts, wires free from the jacketing, bare wires doing nothing where wire nuts had come off. I am so glad I took the walls down.

I just used the MC wire in my shop this past summer, so I have worked with it before. I was just trying to find out if it would work in the AS with no issues. Everything will be purchased new and be compatible. I'm not reusing anything out of the trailer except for the endcaps. I will have an inventory to post on here to offer the AS forum.

One other questions for everybody:

While I have the walls off the interior, what is the best product to use to seal the seams with? Is there anything in particular that has been successful?
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Old 02-08-2008, 04:42 PM   #25
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Wire - I see no good reason not too... it sounds more protected than the plain plastic, but I'm not sure if the weight of the metal jacket may promote more shaffing as the weight will get bounced around more than the lighter plastic romex? I think if it's secured, it should be fine.

Sealing - I think others have used silkaflex with good results from the inside.

Also - has your trailer had an upper rear (the curbside) replaced in the past? I noted the lack of tar material on that side from your shots. Interesting the history one finds... kind of like an archeological dig.

Looking good!
Marc
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Old 02-08-2008, 04:59 PM   #26
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Sealing part II - I think Parbond works as well.
Marc
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Old 02-08-2008, 06:22 PM   #27
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Saw that too

First, thanks for the info on sealing.

And,,, it looks like they at some point replaced the upper and lower at the section you mentioned. The one on the bottom actually has ALCOA and you tell it is newer than any of the others. Must have been a long timie ago because you cannot tell a difference from the outside. It is all equally weathered.

Now that I think of it, that section also has the clear coat residue... at least it looks like that's what it is.
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Old 02-08-2008, 06:27 PM   #28
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Update for Feb 08

No updated photos for today. I spent the day mapping out the new electrical for the inside, drawing in switches, outlets, etc. Also spent quite a while cutting off the bolts where the new floor section is going.

Frame from cut out section forward looks to be in good shape, pretty much rust free in comparison to the rear.

Off to Home Depot with my list in the morning and then back to work!

Hard work...sheesh. The vision of the end result keeps you going.
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