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02-19-2017, 07:56 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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1980 International 25ft Bath Renovation
Hi all. We purchased a 1980 International 25 ft airstream on ebay as a family Christmas present. We drove to Charlotte NC to check it out and all seemed well so we made the purchase. A great big ribbon and Christmas was a success! Christmas night was spent in the trailer, all four of us and "Moose" our lab/mastif mix. Redid all the breaks and hubs and got it inspected in Via. Our first real down the road adventure was over next spring break with the kids. We had a blast. Then I noticed the blue liquid coming from the belly skin at the rear of the trailer. We apparently have a black tank leak. Darn....Well that was three years ago and two teenagers, travel baseball, wife's beach house and lots of life..... Well now it is time to fix the leak and I decided that maybe we would try and update the bath at the same time. So here goes my documenting of the tear down rebuild of the rear bath... After reading so many great adventure/ renovations here on the forums I decided to give it a try. Partly so I can remember how I took everything apart, partly so i have pics to help my work and partly to share with anyone who has interest and maybe can offer advice. So here goes.
Rick
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02-19-2017, 08:15 PM
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#2
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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I should mention that we purchased in 2012 and used in beginning of 2013. Has sat until now . attached is her profile pic as well as a few bath pics prior to removal.
Rick
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02-20-2017, 07:45 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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Took sink, counter, toilet and black tank out.
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02-20-2017, 08:19 AM
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#4
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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Black tank removed showing approximate 2 inch crack in tank. To try and fix or not? Also showing deterioration. In floor under tank. I am not feeling like I want to dig too much deeper at this time. I am seriously considering replacing flooring with new solid plywood over top existing and a composting toilet. My reasoning is that I am not looking for a major overhaul at this time. Just want to get it fixed and usable to get on the road. I know that like many in the forum I could spend much more time on a complete overhaul but now not the time.
Rick
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02-20-2017, 09:29 AM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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Ok here are a couple more views of what I am working with. I am surprised that the plywood flooring which is pretty badly deteriorated in spots does not appear to be but maybe 3/8 inch. I would say that generally throughout the rest of the trailer the flooring seems pretty solid given that it is only 3/8 inch thickness. I don't really know anything about typical plywood use other than some use marine grade, while others don't. I will have to see what others in forum say. Also do have some rusted frame issues. Especially the square bar running over top of the black tank thetford valve. It is rusted through.
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02-20-2017, 12:31 PM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member
1998 34' Limited
Lawrenceville
, Georgia
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 220
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That crack could be freeze damage if valve was left closed with liquid inside or it could be from stress. If it is hard to find a tank, I would try to repair it with reinforcement around it and reinstall. Relatively speaking, it's an easy tank to access. (I realize that I'm not the one who had to remove it).
I would think long and hard before installing a composter, especially if you have more than 2 folks using it.
With good reinforcement around that neck, maybe fiberglass mat and good epoxy, it would last a long time. I'm assuming it is accessible from underneath?
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02-20-2017, 01:50 PM
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#7
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Silver Star
1970 23' Safari
Victoria
, British Columbia
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 352
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If it was me I would skip the compost (especially with a family using).
Since the crack is on the out pipe and will be under liquid a lot I would go for a new Tank ....Check out Vintage Trailer supply or Inca Plastics ... I replaced my Black in a similar situation and got a perfect fit tank from Vintage ....also the previous owner had done a epoxy?? repair and it didn't hold..... you don't want to have to do it again...... have fun.
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02-20-2017, 07:20 PM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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Fwjumper and rucos,
Thanks for the replays. I cut a 12 x 18 inch access panel in belly plan to identify the leak. When I first determined the source of the leak I thought it might be in a tough area to fix. I quickly then decided that a composting toilet might not be a bad way to go. When I actually removed the tank yesterday I again thought maybe just fix it or get a new tank and put it back like it was. But then I also thought this may be a good opportunity to do "a little renovation". My wife was definitely into the idea versus putting the old yellow butterfly toilet back. Additionally I am thinking that rather then put the black tank back, I could lay down some new thicker plywood as a way to structurally help all that had over the years deteriorated and put the composting onto of that. I also noticed a frame rail that crosses the thetford valve is rusted out, so the new plywood might help that. My wife seems to be torn depending which Youtube composting toilet I show her. So in the end I am still trying to decide but nothing I do can't be undone. Thanks for your advice and supsupport. Natures head versus airhead versus butterfly toilet ???
Rick.
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02-21-2017, 09:16 AM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member
1998 34' Limited
Lawrenceville
, Georgia
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 220
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If the tank can be found or made in that configuration, by all means, buy it. I'm guessing you need to repair rusted frame area regardless of how you decide to toilet. The rusted part you refer to may be an outrigger. They are available and need to be welded.
I certainly would not reinstall ole butterfly, but new modern toilets are much less expensive than. composters, and in my opinion, usually use less water in the end, (no pun intended) considering the water that most folks use to clean them between cycles.
If you can send pics of the rusted frame parts, we'll be happy to thrill and exasperate you with our never-to-be-humble opinions.
Wish you good luck and great camping with the family. Some of the very best, never to be forgotten days of your lives.
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02-21-2017, 01:08 PM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member
Newcastle
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 120
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Neck Bone to the Foot Bone
Nice trailer. I have the 1979 Trade Wind that is in similar shape. If all you want to do is camp until you can get a newer trailer then I would do as you said, lay plywood down, get a new tank and patch it up and go.
I started with a minor repair and one thing led to another. I now have the trailer gutted. I am leaving the shower out and turning that space into a closet. I am building a cabinet, putting in a new toilet and sink, and hooking up an exterior shower for boon docking. New axles after that and from there, who knows.
So, Like I said, "The Neck Bone is Connected to the Foot Bone"
Make your choices on the money and time you want to spend on the trailer!
Good Luck
MC
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02-23-2017, 07:01 PM
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#11
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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Fwjumper, thanks for your opinion and support. Here is that rusted out frame above the black tank thetford valve. I' m going to do a little more investigating but I am really hoping to not mess with this particular frame rail at this point. Like "MickeyC"said you start peeling back that onion and the next thing you know you know I have a gutted trailer. I'm at least two years away from any major trailer gutting. So given that I am not looking to prepare that frame rail I am still leaning towards putting down some good 3/4 inch plywood to sure up the back bath area and just put a natures head or air head composting toilet in. Price wise if you look at a new black tank at approx. $300, new toilet at approx. $200.00 probably will also need new thetford valve$ 50.00 so $ 550.00 versus a composting toilet at $1000.00. Also I feel like the extra cost will be worth the added flexibility of the composted and NO BLACKTANK And being that I am a biochemist by training, I'm kinda looking at this as a science experiment. Just like my days back in the lab! . I do appreciate all your thoughts and ideas. Hopefully will keep the pics coming. Loving this warm spell we're having! MickeyC, I think you are reading my mind as to my desire to stay away from a major gutting at this point! And A great big welcome to the forum!
Rick.
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02-25-2017, 09:47 AM
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#12
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3 Rivet Member
Newcastle
, Oklahoma
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 120
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Thanks rhutson
I am really glad I found this site. I have found an enormous amount of knowledge to help me in the process of redoing this trailer.
I have considered the compost toilet myself but I don't know anybody that has any experience with one. When I think of one, I think of the old port-a-potty's that we had years ago. I am sure that is not the case. I have watched several online videos on how they are suppose to work and the concept is great. I would just like to see one and talk to someone who has used one for a while before I committed to going that way. I do like the idea of getting rid of the holding tank.
MC
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02-25-2017, 06:55 PM
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#13
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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Thanks Mickey C. I agree that there's a ton of info here. I just have to not get too ahead of myself. It sounds like you too have looked at the numerous Youtube composting toilet videos. We've watched The Wynns of course as well as a couple of other couples. I just think as long as you install it right and use as it was designed it should be fine. I'm thrilled about no black tank! I have done quite a bit of research on both Natures head and Air head and I'm not really sure but I am leaning Natures head. Attached pic is a 19" X 19" template that I am using to make sure I have the necessary space. The toilet base is only 13 " but you need another 6" for the seat, exhaust portals and spider handle. The air head is slightly smaller but only by a fraction of an inch. So natures head I think, its slighty cheaper $960.00 and available on amazon. I also think the natures head was more flexible about changing exhaust port side and handle side. Who knows I'm sure they are both about the same.
Wish me luck! I will show pics soon. Also MickeyC i would love to see some pics of your rig if you have them.
Rick
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02-25-2017, 07:00 PM
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#14
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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I forgot to mention that when I was taking the closet Grey tank port cover out i found a piece of tthe previous owners dark green 1980's shag carpet. (See previous pic 2ith carpet piece on white template background) Wow! Takes me back.
Rick
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02-25-2017, 07:49 PM
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#15
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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Going to take out bath closet to give more options with regard to renovation. See pic prior to removal. Labeled wires going into upper fan switch and lower pump switch. Yellow wires fan switch. 1 top wire, 2 bottom wire. Red/orange wires pump switch wires, 2mwires, 3 bottom.
Rick
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03-02-2017, 07:15 PM
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#16
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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Natures head toilet arrives
Natures head composting toilet arrived yesterday from amazon prime with two day shipping. Decided on natures head versus air head based on a number issues. Available from amazon..., only slightly largest footprint then air head..., slightly cheaper..., more flexibility in able to switch handle and exhaust on either side..., sidle handle versus extended handle..., slightly larger seat... , all good reviews... After receiving the toilet, it looks well made and I am pleaded with it. Just for kicks placed it in bath on footprint to verify it will wok. Looks good... Now to get the closet wall down and get the floor replaced....
Rick.
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03-05-2017, 01:16 PM
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#17
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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Bath closet removal
Decided to remove closet wall to give more options for bath set up. Shown are closet shelf poor to removal, closet rod attachment and screws, closet wall attachment to interior via screws and finally closet wall removed to show sink drain and venting pipes. Not sure how exactly I am going to configure. I guess next step is to remove drain pipes and cut and prepare new floor plywood. Planning on moving vent and drain pipes closer to exterior wall to open up space. Will have to talk with wife to see her preference.
Rick.
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03-07-2017, 07:29 PM
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#18
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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Bath view with closet toilet and sink removed
Here is another view showing bath area with closet, toilet and sink removed. Also showing 1 and 1/2 inch abs vent pipe and thetford valve to be capped. Went to Home depot today and looked around to get some ideas as to how will complete bath. Still planning on putting good plywood down over original and build new bath counter sink cabinet.
Rick.
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03-12-2017, 07:55 PM
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#19
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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New floor prep
Preparing the bath area prior to putting in new floor. Capped off the thetford valve from old removed black tank. Measure the diameter of the extra Grey tank opening to plug it closed. Plugging it so as keep height minimal. Cap raises height too much so will try to use lower profile plug if possible. New floor will go over the plugged Grey opening. Bought. 3/4 inch Birch plypossible.new floor. Prepare new floor template from cardboard prior to cutting plywood.
Rick.
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03-20-2017, 07:09 PM
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#20
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2 Rivet Member
1980 25' International
Lorton
, Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 62
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Cut and prepare new 3/4 inch floor
Measured new birch 3/4 inch plywood floor using template. Recessed small hole in bottom surface for capped Grey tank opening. Place new natures head composting toilet in bath on new floor to make sure we have enough room. Treat new floor with indoor/outdoor polyurethane. Will treat plywood edges and underside with polyurethane. Still considering weather or not to treat complete upper side with urethane. Of note I have been monitoring what appears to be the classic rear bumper leak. Very interested in work from a few years back of "Top" Steve Bryan and "perryG".
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