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Old 03-28-2016, 11:32 AM   #15
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2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach , Virginia
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What no posts showing the stripper pole pose?

Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
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Old 03-29-2016, 08:50 AM   #16

1968 20' Globetrotter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 451
For Paula's eyes only

Turns out, I'm adding supplemental income to its list of features…

BTW, thanks for the PM
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Old 03-30-2016, 05:03 PM   #17

1968 20' Globetrotter
Join Date: Apr 2011
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Thanks all, and if anyone has pictures of their shower solutions, I'm certain there's much interest in more detail of other approaches..

Steff, I tried to include “All Except Caravel” in the title, just to rib you, but there wasn't room.

Details, Notations, What to Expect…
The strength of the shower rod is attributed to its three points of attachment. The anchorage that the two towel bar mounts creates is important. I agree with ED, a pre-1967 bath enclosure is more challenging, but there is a bulkhead to work from. I'd start with a sliding “T” bevel to determine the angle at wherever the endcap attachment is desired. Certainly, use a length of MGB brakeline, Ha! to mock up the rod, or ˝ inch EMT conduit is really cheap material to prototype with and doesn't need sand to bend… ED had success with a shower rod which I guess is brushed chromed steel, five feet long, and thinner walled than the longer stainless tube that I used. I bent a very tight return at the bulkhead. I worried that thinwall tubing couldn't stretch enough make the outside radius.

Tub Faucet,
I wish I had inverted, flipped 180 degrees, the factory position of the tub faucet so there would be a single catenary curve in the shower hose, instead of the overstressed double curve the moronic factory installation created. The hose is long enough to reach two feet out the bathroom door, so it doesn't need to point upward for any reason. This issue occurs in older baths too, not just '67/'68. Consequently, from the head-mount, the hose doesn't drape naturally. It has an awkward, space invasive angle because of the “S” curve exiting the faucet. The Alsons installation booklet says not to stress the hose in this manner. On my GT, Airstream installed the Alsons bath faucet upside-down, without reversing the H&C valves, just swapping the handles. This made the handle rotation counter-intuitive. An important note here is that the distance between handle/tubwall hole centers is 3-3/8” which is same as old clawfoot tubs. Lavatory faucets are 4”.

What are these 1” eyelets really for?? Are there any two Airstreams with them positioned alike?? They are mounted randomly, seemingly at the installer's inattentive whimsy. On line they are sometimes described as “towel holders”, but the Airstream shower hose is shown looped through them. On mine, the eyelet is installed to conflict the hose with the shower-head mount. The 1967 Alsons parts list illustrates and describes them as a hose guide. Airstream installed mine in a position absolutely impossible to guide the hose. Totally worthless.

Pocket Door,
The clearance in the pocket for the sliding door may be an issue. There, I cut the SS screws short so that they would not interfere with the door. I long ago re-made my door to 3/4” thick Douglas Fir and plasticized Japanese Shoji paper. The original door was 1-1/16 thick. Stay aware of the clearance, as you will disable the door's action with long screws. Since the shower-side of the plywood bulkhead is sealed with melamine, the unsealed side expands with humidity, and stretches a bow inward to interfere with door's glide. There is plenty of room inside the bulkhead wall for the end mount to be anchored with Mollys if preferred, as the door does not glide into the pocket that far. There, I screwed and taped. VHB Tape is wicked strong and sticky. If you mis-locate and try to reposition, you'll wish you were wrestling an alligator instead. Pocket door clearance is minimal. Beware.

Tub Mount,
The rectangular SS mount at the tub was trimmed and ovaled with hack-saw and grinder. It's attached with VHB Tape only. When using VHB Tape, be damned sure that you have it positioned exactly, as it is absolutely unforgiving. At first thought, it seemed a little hokey to have the support pole, but it really has proven to be an asset. The pole is very handy. Highly recommended.

Shower Rod,
The “rod” is locked into the 60 degree endcap mount with socket-head set-screws. As an added precaution, I gently snugged the set-screws, so if there becomes any undue joint twist, it will over-ride the set, and relieve any stress to the endcap. The tubing fits through the bulkhead mounts (towel bar) with adequate interference as they are designed to fit snugly without set-screws.

The first image below is copied from the 1967 Alsons brochure that was part of my GT's original owner's packet. You may want to avert your eyes… A few are from google images...
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Old 04-13-2016, 05:57 AM   #18
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1967 24' Tradewind
Greenville , South Carolina
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Will be keeping this for future reference. Nice job!
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Old 06-30-2016, 10:02 PM   #19
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1968 30' Sovereign
New Richmond , Wisconsin
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Originally Posted by ALUMINUMINUM View Post
I've perused most all threads concerning the '67/'68 shower curtain. There are some valiant efforts to solve the issue. Here's mine, perhaps not for everyone, but a viable option….

The beauty,
I find the '67/68' bath to have excellent proportion, clarity, adequate storage, it's big and bright and easy to clean… It was genius to position the tub toward center so a six-footer like myself can stand tall and still have a few fingers of headroom. The toilet attaches to the under-floor black tank in a simple, conventional manner, none of the plumbing is hidden or captured inside walls, you can easily reach the supply side of all the fixtures. I'll never understand why Airstream changed it for 1969, there's been nothing like it since…

There's the shower curtain “thing”. It may be the most bizarre, scabbed on, dysfunctional, annoying piece of junk in Airstream's history. Who could even think up this Velcro and snaps, flapping accordion contraption?? The folding door/curtain, which is permanently affixed, is 16 square feet of potential festering petri dish. It's such a shabby design, I'd guess that few even exist today. When I discovered the hot seamed plastic/cardboard bacteria haven, I immediately drilled it off the bulkhead and tossed it out the door.

Why not a simple, conventional curtain rod??
In the last few years, I think that I've looked at every shower rod and every style of shower rod mounting hardware on our planet. I found nearly nothing that you can purchase off shelf, is neat and strong. There are different gimbal/hinge/collapsing/swing-away rod devices, but they cannot affix to the bulkhead and follow the tub's shape to terminate at the endcap. There are also curved rod solutions that don't follow the tub contour.

I'm not a fan of the earlier sixties style curtain ring channel that is riveted overhead to the endcap contour. It's action is bit awkward, and the unique curtain, which has to be cut and trimmed to its unusual shape, doesn't drape elegantly, or seal remarkably well vertically, so I didn't bother to pursue that avenue.

A fix that is not too invasive, fits the era, a reasonable expenditure of time and money, uncomplicated, and has simple, familiar function.

KISS Material List,
a few handfuls of fine masonry sand
two wine corks
two feet of electrical tape
ten feet of 301 stainless steel one inch Outside Diameter .049” wall tube, hacksawed at 43.5”--76.5”
one 60 degree degree boat-rail round base (fits to endcap)
one boat-rail “T” (rod support)
one 90 degree boat-rail base (fits to tub)
one boat-rail support (fits to bulkhead)
one boat-rail end support (fits to bulkhead)
one foot of 3M 30# VHB tape
seven SS screws

How it went,
I scribed the decreasing radius of the tub onto cardboard and used that as my bending gauge.
Filled the 76.5” tube with tamped sand, corked and taped its ends. An ordinary 3/4” conduit bender will contour the SS tube with ease, to perfectly match the tub's shape.

Boat-rail mounts come in a wide variety of angles and bolt patterns. A 60 degree round mount angles so perfectly against the end-cap, it's astounding! The other two mounts stand off the pocket-door bulkhead creating a towel bar. The endcap is fiberglass, so after drilling for the 60 degree mount, I buttered the holes with epoxy. As it set, I started Antiseized screws into the epoxied holes, the squeeze-out creates an epoxy grommet. Later, I removed screws, VHB taped the mount in place, and gently snugged the screws to the endcap. Doing this makes me feel that the rod mount will not cause stress to the fiberglass. I likewise VHB'd and screwed the mounts onto the bulkhead. The rod's height allows the curtain's top edge to be equal to the top edge of the original accordion thing.

With ordinary, sensible use, the rod alone with its triangulated points of attachment, suffices. I worried that if Godzilla, while merrily bathing, loses her balance and grabs the rod to break her fall, it may fail, so I added a 43.5” tall midway pole support that will not interfere with the '67/'68 “dressing seat” that hides the toilet.

Additional findings,
Turns out, I love having the pole there to assist take-off and landing on the can. “Hook” style roller curtain rings glide over the “T”. We use the pole as a Safety Bar enter/exiting the tub. Clothes Line, Towel Bar, Chinning Bar (it supports my 175# with ease), and Bike Rack (now I can join the fray of “how to carry bikes with Airstream”). It's inspired Pamela Anderson Stripper Pole poses, so entertainment has been added to its list of features...

All told, this project was not difficult, multi-functions admirably, and cost less than a C-note…
Hi Aluminuminum,

You have been a treasured resource for us in the recent past as we have endeavored to bring our 1968 30' Sovereign up to usable standards! Your primer (and respond to our post) on how to take apart/fix the windows of our 1968 trailer windows was invaluable! We read your instructions to us word by word (multiple times) as we successfully replaced the glass bedding in the glass of our curved 1968 Corning windows! Thank you for that info!!

We are at the point that we are about to put back together the washroom of our rear bath 1968 washroom after pulling everything out and replacing the original floor due to that infamous rot that occurred there with the design flaw in that rear hatch area (managed to fix that flaw too!). Although we will redo the vanity area to upgrade the washroom, and we will put in a Nature's Head composting toilet to give us a grey tank in lieu of the badly cracked black water tank we found and removed, we opted to keep the original bath/shower combination (could not fine a modern one that was as large and fit as well!). That bath was in good condition. A trip with it to our closest automotive body shop got them to reinforce some of the fiberglass in the lower floor areas and then put a phenomimal white automotive paint job worthy of any car out out there on the entire tub and the lower surround!

Of course, we are at the point of considering how to attach a shower curtain and that's how we came across this post from you earlier this year. Again, your solution looks to prove itself as the most elegant as well as the most functional. We have opted to go with your solution.

Would you please share where you purchased the SS fittings as well as well you were able to source the SS tube that you used for the actual shower curtain? I am being met with blank stares here in our local countrified area. Additionally, if you have the actual part numbers on each piece - I'm sure they would be a great help! And lastly, what did you do/use on the street-side wall where you do not show any curtain hanging at all? Did you at some point "enclose" that area too - or - was that left open for towels,etc? I am looking at potentially enclosing that area with the shower curtain also - so please let me know what - if any - additonal SS parts I would need to do that with in your estimation.

We also had to replace the wall between the shower and the sliding pocket door. We opted to replace that wall with 22 gauge Stainless Steel backed with the original plywood/hardboard that was there. It added a little more weight - but gave us an impervious surface in that area. If you have ever done work in the area where your tub meets the wall, what did you use - or what would you recommend - to seal the point where the tub is riveted into the wall - as well as perhaps "hiding" the meeting of the two? We still have the original trim that was there, but it really looks shoddy after doing all this work. Your input would be much appreciated!

Thank you again for your insight. For your information, you reply to me regarding the windows a year ago gave us us the determination to get them done! Much Appreciated!!

Thank you again!
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Old 07-01-2016, 04:04 PM   #20

1968 20' Globetrotter
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 451
Hi There,

The '67/'68 Airstreams were the design culmination of the “twinkie” bodyshell. Albeit, they suffered suffered from poor workmanship and the cost cuts of a foundering company, they were still pretty smart trailers. I'd say that they are comparatively easy to rebuild, although the '68 in particular, is plagued with the most moronic electrical system in Airstream history...

I don't recall the exact name of the seller on eBay that I got my mount hardware from, but there is a boatload of marine accessory sellers on eBay. Essenbay Marine appears to be well stocked with boat rail mounts. They're on eBay, they take PayPal. The rail tube is pretty common SS that a welding shop can get. Around here there is a metal store called ALRO, they're on line…

Covering the join where the curved streetside interior endcap meets the tub, airstream pop-riveted a metal that no one can find today. Looks kinda like a toolbox socket rail. The metal was covered by a flat “c” shaped plastic extrusion, then calked.. That belt-line takes a panoramic sweep around the bathroom, under the rear window, and terminates at the sink.. Outwater plastic, a great resource, does not have it. They might have something better.

For those wanting the original look, it's a junkyard item. What you can do will be unique to your modification. Look at counter-top laminate metals, search Outwater.

The images below are of my 1968 bath transition moldings which are original and undisturbed. The sloppy calking is also the original jackson center work.

Regarding the streetside shell wall above the tub, mine is the original interior fiberglass end-cap, and all original bath plastics everywhere, which requires no curtain. Any errant spray along the fiberglass bulkhead is collected by the parcel shelf behind the toiletwhich drains into the tub. Airstream describes that storage space behind the toilet as a "hamper".

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Old 07-01-2016, 10:00 PM   #21
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1968 30' Sovereign
New Richmond , Wisconsin
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Thank you for the information! I'll start the hunt for those parts as we really like what you ended up doing for the shower curtain! We appreciate your time!
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Old 07-29-2017, 08:22 AM   #22
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Great idea! Thanks! I will see what i can do. Lol! Your description of the original is spot on.
It's the rivets!!!!!
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Old 08-16-2017, 03:28 PM   #23
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Haha! I just asked you about this curtain rod replacement. Funny thing is, this is now the second time i've seen it! nice job! I'm just not sure i can do it. I was hoping there was a track i could attach to the ceiling. Do you know if they make them for t his year?
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Old 02-07-2018, 09:53 AM   #24
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1964 26' Overlander
Warner Robins , Georgia
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This is how I ended up creating a shower curtain rod for our ‘64 Overlander.
Caroyl & Tim
1964 Overlander "Gracie"
WBCCI # 31088
2009 F-150 "Big Red"
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Old 02-07-2018, 02:03 PM   #25
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1966 24' Tradewind
Kansas City , Missouri
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Originally Posted by eubank View Post
Much nicer looking than the curtain rod that i built from a long piece of spare MGB brake line!

Good to hear that British Leyland made something that you found useful. Too bad one can't say the same for their cars.

- Fond Former Owner of a '67 and a '77 MGB.
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Old 02-07-2018, 06:39 PM   #26
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Very nice curtain rod & end cap.

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1967, 1968

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