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10-17-2018, 07:23 AM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1959 28' Ambassador
Summerville
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 77
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1959 interior aluminum removal
I originally posted questions regarding this project in the model appropriate place and haven't had much luck with replies so I just recreated the post here in hopes that someone might have some timely answers and advice. I'm not one to just start drilling and pulling so I have some things I've run in to with our trailer. I also plan to re-use as much as possible. I'll be painting the interior once it's cleaned up and back in. The interior is out and I've removed some panels from the rear end cap to verify placement and condition of structure for removing the shell.
The interior has been painted (poorly) and partially wallpapered so I hadn't paid real close attention to the rivets in the ceiling. I now know that there is a row of buck rivets on each side of the center panel and around the door. Everything else appears to be pop rivets.
Was the ceiling assembled prior to installation?
That would be my guess, but it's just a guess.
I'm planning to start drilling pop rivets at the lowest point on each side and work my way up both sides. The buck rivets around the door will be drilled out also.
Then, as many have said I'll roll the ceiling (all three panels still buck riveted together) and remove it through the front or rear window. Is this the appropriate method?
Please pardon my lack of confidence. Having never done this before I'm not keen on destroying a '59 ambassador.
James
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10-17-2018, 09:03 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,931
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James, any bucking on the interior skins were done prior to installing the panels. I would think the center ceiling panel was bucked for shear strength due to the few stringers in the ceiling area. I added stringers on each side of the center panel and tied them into the ribs. Some of my center strip was badly corroded due to a leaky Hehr vent, so I drilled out one side of the bucked rivets for ease of replacement. All the pop and buck rivets were 1/8”. I drilled them out and went back with 5/32” dome head pop rivets from Hanson. Once I spray the Zolatone next week, I don’t think anyone will notice the difference in the chucked and popped. Good luck and ask the questions if needed, I do. Bubba
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10-17-2018, 09:43 AM
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#3
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2 Rivet Member
1959 28' Ambassador
Summerville
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 77
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Thanks Bubba,
It does look like the buck rivets around the door have to come out in order to remove the ceiling panel. The end of the rivet that gets "flattened" is accessible around the door jamb.
I'm really wondering about rolling the ceiling and passing it through the window opening. That seems awfully tight. I've pretty well made up my mind that's what I'm going to have to do though.
I really don't want to mess this up.
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10-17-2018, 10:10 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,931
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The only way you could mess it up is to create a bad kink while rolling it. I’ve also seen some roll it up like a taco shell and feed it out the door. Either way it’s cumbersome. Good luck, Bubba
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10-17-2018, 11:02 AM
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#5
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2 Rivet Member
1959 28' Ambassador
Summerville
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 77
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The "taco" method makes more sense to me. Once the ceiling is down I'll have a better idea what I'm dealing with, but one gentle bend vs. rolling it in to an 18 or 20 inch pipe sounds easier and less risky.
Thanks again Bubba.
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10-17-2018, 01:25 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1991 34' Excella
1963 26' Overlander
1961 26' Overlander
Central
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 5,919
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1959 interior aluminum removal
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10-17-2018, 01:59 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member
1959 28' Ambassador
Summerville
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 77
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"Taco", "Burrito"... I'm back on the fence again.
Rolling would make storage and transport much easier, especially if it has to be moved around much before it goes back in.
Anyway, it's down and I went ahead and pulled the insulation. I really should have had someone else in there with me, but didn't want to expose anyone to the fiberglass or "the funk of forty thousand years". Now that it's off I'm much less scared of bending it up or otherwise damaging it. It seemed like two thirds of the rivets were already broke which led to some surprises. The big piece up front nearly ripped off before I got all the good rivets drilled out.
I'll let you know what I decide on removal. Thanks for the picture HiHo.
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10-17-2018, 04:44 PM
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#8
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2 Rivet Member
1959 28' Ambassador
Summerville
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 77
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OK, It came out through the window. The short piece that was in the back made it out the door before any of my help arrived though.
Thanks Bubba and Hi Ho Silver for your advice and encouragement. I'm excited to move forward with a little less anxiety. Again, I really don't want to mess this up.
James
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10-17-2018, 06:07 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1966 22' Safari
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Fredericksburg
, Texas
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 2,931
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See, a piece of cake. You may as well accept the fact that you’re going to make a mistake at some point in time. It’s either how you correct it or blend it in where it goes unnoticed. You’re well on your way and I’ll be watching to learn some new tricks of the trade. Good luck, Bubba
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