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Old 10-05-2015, 02:37 PM   #15
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 811
Very Helpful Bill,
I use my 25 Safari to hunt in the fall in Colorado and camp off the grid in temps down to the low teens in my 2004 25 foot Safari.
I have some of the modifications on my trailer that you suggest such as the Olympian heater and solar charger. Like you, we don't use the Olympian heater while sleeping but it keeps the trailer comfortable without electricity when we are awake.
I suggest a few other modifications. I have upgraded to group 27 batteries from group 24. These fit in the stock battery box if you drill out the rivets on lid. You can re rivet after the batteries are installed. The bigger batteries give you quite a bit more battery power to run the furnace all night.
Batteries won't last long with the stock single stage converter charger. I have upgraded to a three state unit which doubles battery life.
I also have a 2000 EU Honda generator. I have only one solar panel on my trailer and a little extra from the generator is necessary to keep my batteries charged particularly on cloudy rainy, snowy days.
We keep our heat on the low setting at night which keeps the temperature about 50 in the back bedroom. We sleep in sleeping backs rather than make up the bed.
On my wish list are l.e.d. lights. The incandescent bulbs take quite a bit of electricity.
Also the next time I change batteries, I will probably use agms and go with 4 batteries. I remodeled my Airstream to take out the couch and put in a dinette and I have a bit if room inside in the front of my trailer for two more batteries. The agms have more charge discharge cycles and are worth it if you do a lot of dry camping.

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Old 10-23-2016, 02:59 PM   #16
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beecher , Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 15
Good information.
We plan to replace the black water tank with a composting toilet and relocate the freshwater tank to the living area so we can add insulation to where they were previously mounted in the frame.
The grey water tank will be staying put since it needs to be lower than any source of grey water and I'm 6'7", so I'm not willing to lose headspace in the shower.

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Old 11-11-2016, 12:41 PM   #17
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Westminster , California
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 10
Thanks for the response. My own experience is much like this. We do an annual mid-september trip to June Lake and our little 1500 watt space heater pretty much runs continuously to keep the trailer above mid-60s. Have also used a Mr. Buddy inside the trailer. It works but goes through propane pretty fast. Don't use it any more. Also carry a 2000 Honda for unanticipated situations.
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Old 02-17-2019, 01:41 PM   #18
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Mary Esther , FL
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 29
In a 2017+ FC30 FB Bunk, what are the minimum steps to ensure the trailer is able to safely withstand NM winters during full-time living? It seems like many of these mods in this thread are about heat retention, but which ones are absolutely required to avoid frozen lines and what-not? For example, how does the now-standard "Enclosed Aluminum Insulated Heated Underbelly" fit in to all of this?

I ask because we are going to start full-timing in January with very little actual RV experience. I just want to make sure I am correctly prioritizing the mods so I am not fiddling with vent covers while my pipes burst in the walls, heh.

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