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Old 02-22-2019, 03:02 AM   #21
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2014 20' Flying Cloud
Sag Harbor , New York
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Clovis is fairly close to Amarillo TX where we got blasted by a bad January blizzard [incl very strong winds] in our first cross-country adventure in the 25' AS in the 1990's. A hasty winterization missed a couple of things, so we had some plumbing repairs to do in San Diego.

Here is the monthly data for the recent January for Clovis:

https://www.accuweather.com/en/us/cl...monyr=1/1/2019

At the bottom are the temp High/Low lines. Those overnight lows, plus strong winds, are the weak links in the chain for full-timing in an Airstream in weather like this IMO. You will need not only plenty of propane, but portable electric heaters [on shore power] to direct warmth to remote areas under counters and so forth. You have been doing your homework, so 'nuff said probably, but prepare for the worst . . .

The need for supplemental heat will depend on your AS model and floor plan. Not that familiar with the FC30 FB Bunk. Is the pump buried someplace near the outside skin of the AS, where a cold strong wind could freeze the pump compartment hard? You might want to check the forum for that model for comments about finding/replacing the pump. Maybe buy an extra one ahead of time?

If you are going to be stationary for a while, it may pay to put some hay bales around the perimeter under the AS, with some electric heaters under the trailer as well. Not sure what your parameters will be.

Good luck,

Peter
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Old 02-22-2019, 11:31 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindenwood View Post
Indeed, we are planning to buy in the fall to start gearing it up, and will move in around Jan.

We'll be in Clovis, NM. Average overnight lows are in the mid-20s in January, with occasional dips into the mid-teens. Average daytime highs in the high-40s for Jan, with rare days where it stays below freezing for >24 hours.

I've been reading a lot of threads on the subject and found good info, especially indicating that comfortable winter living is overall pretty sustainable as long as you keep up the supply of propane!
I full time in my '83 motorhome in northern Indiana, i keep a couple space heaters running full time, but for the most part as long as you have the furnace on and the inside temp in the 70s, the nighttime lows listed aren't worrisome.

I haven't noticed freezing up issues until it goes into the single digits, the biggest thing for me is putting a little rv antifreeze down the drain after showering, but you have a belly pan and may not need that. Make sure your water pump stays warm. I fill up the fresh tank daily, but you can probably use a heated hose.

If you want to be extra cozy, install a woodstove, I love mine, but it's not necessary.

The only issue I had was it took about 2 days for all my plumbing to thaw out after the -20 polar vortex, but fortunately no busted fittings

Your plan is 100% doable
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Old 02-22-2019, 11:38 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by OTRA15 View Post
If you are going to be stationary for a while, it may pay to put some hay bales around the perimeter under the AS, with some electric heaters under the trailer as well. Not sure what your parameters will be.
Haybales and electric heaters are both a good idea, independently... but I wouldn't do both at the same time!

I've personally not skirted, and haven't had any desire to do so. I've heard it helps, but also draws mice.
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Old 02-22-2019, 04:00 PM   #24
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I have a 2014 bunk. The pump is behind a small panel near the floor adjacent the stove (or drawers beneath the cooktop). There is a non-insulated heating duct/vent that comes out of that panel so I "think" the compartment wont freeze. But you can always pop the cover off and see what's doing in there.

Keep your hot water heater on. That's in an outside compartment below the full bed in back.

The furnace will supply heat to the tanks. You'll want to keep that on but I'd run a space heater as well to conserve propane. We use an oil filled radiator type and it works well.

In that type of cold I like to fill my fresh tank and run off that rather than city water. Then you dont have to worry about the hose freezing.

Might also want to cut reflectix for the windows.

If that all doesn't work, hook her up and head to warmer climates! Good luck.
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Old 02-23-2019, 02:52 AM   #25
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Thanks for all the replies! Looking at various posts, the one uncertainty left with the plumbing is that the shower head appears to be mounted against the outside wall. This meams the pipes going to the shower head are probably most at risk to freezing, no? The bathroom and kitchen sinks appear to pass sideways through interior cabinetry.

Without seeing one, would you guys expect this shower plumbing is still heated?
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Old 02-23-2019, 04:44 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Lindenwood View Post
. . .
Without seeing one, would you guys expect this shower plumbing is still heated?
Unlikely IMO, nor the plumbing to the exterior shower [ours are back-to-back inside the wall]. You may have to set up a portable electric heater to blow into the shower. Have you checked out your floor plan? [see PS]

You will find the weak links in the chain when you get your full-scale-model out into the "testing laboratory." With your research now, at least you will be prepared to adjust in the field if you have the proper tools ready to go, and stay aware of conditions and actual functioning of things like the exterior shower, pump and so forth.

"Eyes wide open" in other words . . .

Peter

PS -- Owner's manuals and floor plans are available here: https://www.airstream.com/

I think this is what you are getting . . . looks like the shower valves and shower head are on the exterior wall IMO:

https://www.airstream.com/travel-tra...ans/30fb-bunk/
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Old 02-23-2019, 04:59 AM   #27
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Lindenwood has started a new dedicated thread for all these questions -- good move!

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f459...ns-192488.html
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Old 02-23-2019, 05:52 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindenwood View Post
Thanks for all the replies! Looking at various posts, the one uncertainty left with the plumbing is that the shower head appears to be mounted against the outside wall. This meams the pipes going to the shower head are probably most at risk to freezing, no? The bathroom and kitchen sinks appear to pass sideways through interior cabinetry.

Without seeing one, would you guys expect this shower plumbing is still heated?
I haven't seen an Airstream with the shower on an outside wall. Ours is on a bulkhead wall between the shower and bedroom.
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Old 02-23-2019, 06:56 AM   #29
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I haven't seen an Airstream with the shower on an outside wall. Ours is on a bulkhead wall between the shower and bedroom.
Check the floor plan linked in the PS of Post #26. Looks like the shower valves are on that exterior wall IMO, just like ours are, with the exterior shower feeds right behind them.
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Old 02-23-2019, 07:23 AM   #30
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To use only electric to heat in winter,

I would think, if doable, the best thing would be to seal/skirt the trailer with the thickest foamboard insulation possible, sealed tight, or straw bales, then provide a safe source of heat underneath.

Maybe a guy could run an electric heater outside and pipe the warm air in to the space under the trailer.

Same around water bib and inbound hose, along with sewer drain lines.

Be ready for a power outage, otherwise, I say it's doable.
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Old 02-23-2019, 07:53 AM   #31
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Thank you guys again for the responses!

I had found a picture that appeared to have the shower mountee on the outside wall, and the floorplan sketch in the manual shows what I think is the symbol for the shower head against that outside wall. Of course, I have no idea if there is an air gap designed into that space for interior air to circulate around the pipes. Or, if that plumbing is even accessible at all.
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Old 02-23-2019, 08:19 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by Lindenwood View Post
Thank you guys again for the responses!

I had found a picture that appeared to have the shower mountee on the outside wall, and the floorplan sketch in the manual shows what I think is the symbol for the shower head against that outside wall. Of course, I have no idea if there is an air gap designed into that space for interior air to circulate around the pipes. Or, if that plumbing is even accessible at all.
May I suggest that you confine this discussion to your new dedicated thread?

If you click on the multiple quote symbol next to the Quote symbol below here, you can then go to your main thread, and start a reply. When the discussion dialogue box opens up, look below and see the option [in blue as I recall] to bring in the quote from the other thread.

It will make things much easier for everyone.

Peter

PS -- I have posted the two recent messages in that thread.
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Old 02-25-2019, 02:07 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Adventure.AS View Post
I haven't seen an Airstream with the shower on an outside wall. Ours is on a bulkhead wall between the shower and bedroom.
2014 bunk has shower on bulkhead.

There is an outside shower as well. You will have to deal with that.
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Old 08-13-2021, 09:10 PM   #34
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Haybales and electric heaters are both a good idea, independently... but I wouldn't do both at the same time!

I've personally not skirted, and haven't had any desire to do so. I've heard it helps, but also draws mice.
I’m wondering if flashing light in skirting would keep the mice away. They are used under cars parked outside in the desert to keep packrats from nesting
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Old 03-08-2023, 12:05 AM   #35
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An unvented LP heater puts carbon monoxide into the interior of the trailer. Very dangerous.
LP does not have a high carbon monoxide output like nat gas. It does however deplete oxygen like any open flame. Just crack your roof vents or windows a little and you're fine. Most newer catalytic heaters have 02 depletion sensors on them. I heat my 1500 sqft home with 2 of them. Been doing it for 20 plus years. But you have to be mindful of any flammables around them. Fire will get you way faster than carbon monoxide.
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Old 03-08-2023, 12:27 AM   #36
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I watched a video of a couple that got caught in the Texas freeze in their AS. I learned a few things from that. The first thing I learned was don't count on your shore power. They lost power and the battery lasted them most of one night. Generators are great. If you have fuel. They had a Generator, but only a day or two worth of fuel. When they ran out and went to find gas there were two problems. One the gas stations didn't have power. And two, the ones that did soon ran out of gas. They toughed it out for several days but eventually ended up at a friend's house until the power came back, and I think they pulled the trailer to warmer places. But it was very eye opening how fast things can go south when winter camping. I don't like cold, so I don't usually winter camp. But even spring or fall camping things can change fast. There has been some good suggestions so far.
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Old 03-08-2023, 05:44 AM   #37
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We got caught in the Texas winter storm a couple of years ago when we were staying in Galveston. We had a Class B Roadtrek at the time. Afterward I put together a blog post about how preparing our rig for boondocking saved our butts when Texas suddenly had an unexpected winter calamity. Most of the tips would be viable for any rig. The bottom line is that you can't fully rely on any existing system no matter where you are or what time of year it is. -Ari
https://trekers.org/rving-in-the-texas-winter-storm/
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Old 03-08-2023, 06:04 AM   #38
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Deleted post. Off topic. My apologies..
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