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Old 01-15-2015, 10:39 PM   #29
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A adaptor is easy to make. You use a male 220 plug that fits your welder or whatever outlet. You need at least a couple feet of electrical wire, preferably 10/2 w/ground. (3 wire) Use a female receptacle that your trailer plugs into. The welding plug uses 4 wires, usually. The two flat male blades side by side are each 110 v hot. You only use one of them, don't connect the other to your adaptor cable. By doing this you can only have 110 v. Connect this wire to one of the flat female connections in your 110 v receptacle. The second wire is a neutral wire, that will be the other male flat or angled blade on the plug. Connect this to the other flat female connection in the receptacle. The last male blade on the plug connects to the 3rd wire and is a ground wire. Connect this to the round female connector in the 110v receptacle. After connecting everything, plug it into the welder receptacle and use a voltmeter to test before plugging your trailer to it. It should have 110v between the two flat blade holes. You will also have 110v between the round hole and one of the flat holes, and no reading between the round hole and the other flat hole. This is really not very complicated, and if you need help or more information, just send me a private message. Rolland


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Old 01-15-2015, 10:55 PM   #30
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Thanks for your articulation here Rolland!


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Old 01-15-2015, 11:02 PM   #31
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20 amp is fine. Just don't exceed 20 amps, even for just a second when the heater or AC kicks on. I might even be running on 15 amp currently but I'm not living in it. Question though... how is sewer "easy?"
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:37 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by chaseav View Post
20 amp is fine. Just don't exceed 20 amps, even for just a second when the heater or AC kicks on. I might even be running on 15 amp currently but I'm not living in it. Question though... how is sewer "easy?"
Hi, some houses have a sewer clean-out; You can connect your sewer hose to these. At a friends house, recently, I was able to do this, but needed fifty feet of sewer hose.


(1.) Sewer hose connected to trailer.

(2.) Sewer hose supported by a board.

(3.) Sewer hose running along planter and a board to cross the porch steps.

(4.) Sewer hose connected to house clean out with a potted plant holding the hose connection in place of non-threaded sewer pipe.
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Old 01-15-2015, 11:51 PM   #33
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Have you considered since this is a friend's property, spending the $500+ for a dedicated 30 amp line ... just buy a generator for when your amperage needs approach 30 ...otherwise a 15 or 20 is good for most of the rest of the time ...
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Old 01-16-2015, 09:33 AM   #34
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Unfortunately, my clean-out is in the basement. Perhaps after I get my planned pad poured this spring, I will have to get a macerator and run the hose through the basement window???? I do plan to use the AS for guest quarters occasionally.
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Old 01-17-2015, 05:08 AM   #35
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So the sewer clean out is not a pressurized thing? Cause I swear if open mine up and I wear it!!!! I assume I should make sure the wife isn't home to "accidentally" flush a toilet when this is happening. Mine is in my front yard but I'm not sure I could elevate enough to keep the flow going.
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Old 01-17-2015, 08:50 AM   #36
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So the sewer clean out is not a pressurized thing? Cause I swear if open mine up and I wear it!!!! I assume I should make sure the wife isn't home to "accidentally" flush a toilet when this is happening. Mine is in my front yard but I'm not sure I could elevate enough to keep the flow going.
Sewers are all gravity, so even if there is a flush, the cleanout should be higher and water generally does not travel uphill.

I also put in an RV receptacle for the trailer after keeping it on a 20amp outlet for a couple of years. The little adapter plugs that you can buy in Walmart will keep things running, but eventually will develop some resistance and may start to burn on one of the legs and further reduce the current and raise the voltage drop. Maybe making one up yourself from a very HD 110v cord going into a box with the correct RV receptacle would be a better long term solution short of wiring in a 30amp RV outlet. But you would be spending about the same on parts but not spending the money or time to hardwire something in your friends house.
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Old 01-17-2015, 08:57 AM   #37
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The parts are cheap, but the knowledge to do it right is what you pay for.

Note: if you hire an electrician be very clear its a 30 amp 115 volt single phase connection. Others on the forum have had major issues when an RV 30 amp outlet was hooked to 220 volt incorrectly. Beware of electricians unfamiliar with what you need.

Me, I know what I'm doing and did it myself...just be careful.


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Some times I have to question their knowledge. When we had our house built I told the electrician we needed a 30 amp 110 RV outlet to plug in our trailer. When we moved in I looked the breaker box for the 30 amp 110 breaker and could only find a 30 amp 220 breaker. The electrician returned an made it a 110v outlet but they did not check the polarity of the outlet. When we got the airstream we had an energized body and 11ov outlets with all the breakers turned off. I checked the wires at the outlet, you got it, black wire on silver screw, white wire on gold screw.
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Old 01-17-2015, 09:02 AM   #38
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Posted our mishap previously with a licensed electrician wiring in a 30AMP box in our garage. This was a campground style box with a campground style female 30AMP end. BUT, he wired it 220 instead of 110. The local AS dealer did all the repairs and when I started to tell him about having it done, he interrupted and said that he wired it 220. He did, and also as stated fixed all.
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Old 01-17-2015, 09:05 AM   #39
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Just because an electrician is licensed. It doesn't mean they know what they are doing when it comes to wiring an RV service pole or outlet.



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Old 01-17-2015, 09:17 AM   #40
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Sewers are all gravity, so even if there is a flush, the cleanout should be higher and water generally does not travel uphill.

I have a three story house with three bathrooms on the third level. That's not possible in my case. I'm not at all familiar with this system so it may take a while to work up the courage to unscrew that cap!
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Old 01-17-2015, 09:53 AM   #41
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If you decide to use a 20 amp outlet, be sure to check your 20 to 30 amp adapter. I've been wanting to purchase a new one for a couple of years now. The only adapters I can find are rated for 15 amps only. The packages will use the standard "20 to 30 amp adapter" part name but the adapter itself will be stamped 15 amps. Using 18 amps in the AS will cause the adapter to overheat without tripping the breaker. Anyone who has bought one recently should check the ratings on their adapter.

Check out post 3 of this thread for an idea to protect your water source in cold weather. We used to full time till mama wanted a bath tub again.

Ricky
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Old 01-17-2015, 10:01 AM   #42
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Not only electricians make mistakes as I no a lic. plumber that hooked all cold water to hot side and hot to cold side on friend of mine house, his retort I don't make mistakes. No longer a plumber also he put hand under running trencher no more fingers
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