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Old 01-14-2015, 06:11 AM   #15
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I ran my 30 amp service myself....about $100 in pieces and parts and about 2 hours.


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Old 01-14-2015, 12:06 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by gcasson View Post
So I am living in my airstream...I'm currently living in an RV park but I have an opportunity to park on a friend's property. She's willing to let me hook into her house. So sewer and water are easy...but what about electric?? Any thoughts or experiences with this? Constantly tripping breakers?

Hi, I think we all agree that an RV 30 amp outlet would be the best, but I wouldn't have it done to a friend's house unless it was a long term situation and/or the home owner wanted to do it anyway. Do it to my own house; That's a complete different story. A 20 amp service worked fine for me.


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Old 01-14-2015, 01:28 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by rmkrum View Post
The parts are cheap, but the knowledge to do it right is what you pay for.

Note: if you hire an electrician be very clear its a 30 amp 115 volt single phase connection. Others on the forum have had major issues when an RV 30 amp outlet was hooked to 220 volt incorrectly. Beware of electricians unfamiliar with what you need.

Me, I know what I'm doing and did it myself...just be careful.

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I can attest to this post. I had an RV plug wired by a licensed electrician in our garage. Specifically in the quote 30AMP 110V. He wired it 220V. I plugged in the AS after he left, it was not there when he did it and a loud pop, tons of smoke and $1,500 later a new converter and new blue ray player installed at the electricians expense plus my travel expenses to the AS dealer. AND the electrician said he knew exactly what he was doing as he had just finished a campground, however, he had done all the boxes not the panel as another electrician from the same company did the panel.

It's well worth it, even now that we have a 50AMP As, I just use and 30AMP adapter and plug her in. Can test each AC one at a time, etc.


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Old 01-14-2015, 03:17 PM   #18
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Smile Plugging into house

We added an RV outlet in our garage so that a long cord will reach from the RV in our more blown fuses!
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:21 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Cochese View Post
You need 30 amp if you plan on using an elec heater or a/c; 20 amp will not support a/c ( it will support one 1500 watt heater).

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My ac will run on a 20 amp circuit. Make sure there is nothing else running in the trailer other than the converter and that there is nothing in the house running off that circuit.
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Old 01-14-2015, 03:56 PM   #20
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Plugging in to a house

My a/c will run on a twenty amp circuit all day long.

A/C and a hair dryer at the same time? That would be no.

With a little common sense, and a good supply cord, a twenty amp circuit will suffice.

Worst case, the breaker trips.

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Old 01-14-2015, 05:29 PM   #21
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I would try it before I did anything,one thing about it you might be able to stay in the house if it gets too cold!!!
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Old 01-14-2015, 09:28 PM   #22
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You can make or have made a adapter to plug into and "Y" off of a existing 220 v outlet either 30 or 50 amp. (Dryer, stove, or A/C) You will draw off of one leg and have 110v. It is how I plug into a variety of places, including my shop to keep the batteries charged or to use as a guest room. This will allow you to make no changes in the house wiring and take the adaptor with you when you leave. Those of us who travel a lot carry many adapters. The only expense is the cost of a variety of plugs, receptacles, and power cable. Good luck. Rolland

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Old 01-14-2015, 10:43 PM   #23
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Rolland would it be possible to articulate this "Y" idea a bit more. I have a 220 plug for my welder in my shop and was in the process of trying to find an electrician who could come to wire me in a plug for the trailer. Now with your comments, I'm wondering if I have to
Where could one get one of these "Y" plugs?



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Old 01-15-2015, 12:19 AM   #24
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Be careful here. 220 volt outlets usually have the two hot legs, and a single safety earth. No neutral. The correct 30 amp trailer plug has a 115 volt hot lead, a neutral, and a safety earth (ground). It's NOT a good idea to use a 220 outlet with only one ground to power an AS. The neutral and safety earth are separate for a good reason-- the safety earth (green ground in US) is there to keep the trailer frame and body safely grounded. It's also an electrical code thing.

Tying trailer neutral and safety earth anywhere besides the house electrical panel (with its ground rod to earth) is a good way to get killed if something goes wrong.

Please do it right, per the NEC (US) or Canada code, or don't do it at all. Your life is not worth the "easy" jury-rigged power outlet connection.

I've worked with power systems all my life, and I can tell you the easiest way to get hurt is fooling with 'big standard' 115 volt circuits. One darn near got me when I had a 480 volt 3-phase monster tagged out. The 115 volt pilot circuit damn near got me.

Be safe, be double careful, and if it isn't to code, you should not and must not do it that way. Life is precious.

And electrical cooking is a bad way to die. 'Nuff said.

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Old 01-15-2015, 05:23 AM   #25
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"So sewer and water are easy."

Are you staying in Colorado????????? The water will freeze before it gets to your trailer
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:14 AM   #26
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Thanks again everyone! this is by far the most useful forum I've been a part of!

Yes I live in Colorado. Right in the heart of the Roaring Fork Valley north of Aspen! The only problem I've had with frozen lines has been when I wasn't there for a few days. I have a heated water hose that works surprisingly well! I don't even have it wrapped in insulation or anything...I'd highly recommend one for winter use!
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Old 01-15-2015, 07:28 AM   #27
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All 240 volt outlets that I am aware of, are wired with a neutral and 2 hot legs as well as a ground. Some (3 prong old work) have the neutral and ground on one lug. The newer outlets are 4 wire. The neutral and ground are on separate prongs.
Your system should be wired to the latter. But only using one of the hot legs along with the neutral and a separate ground.
Your coach is wired for 120 volts. NOT 240.
There are specific receptacles for RV service. They are clearly marked and identify where the hot leg and neutral connect.

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Old 01-15-2015, 08:15 AM   #28
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I ran two separate 50amp panels for my trailer. First one is next to the parking shed (also have water and sewer here). Second panel is in my driveway. I "stage" departures from the driveway and like to park there for a day before a trip as it's closer and easier to load/unload. Will admit that it was a project to wire these two boxes, but once they are done, they are done! Oh, the driveway panel includes separate plug-ins for 50/30/20 amp. Nice if I have company and they only need 30.
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