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Old 11-19-2018, 09:11 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Joyman View Post
We are living in our trailer this winter also. I skirted my bottom with foam board insulation sheet s we went from 23 one morning outside with the under side of trailer was 58 with my Wi-Fi thermometer read. 33 hours later the air temp out side was 60 and sunny. Big sweat down under trailer. So I cut 6 holes in my insulation sheets to breath the trailer and dry this out. And cut additional sheets to patch over the holes when it goes back cold again. Here in a few weeks. Moisture ='s mold. Keep air flowing when we can. Good luck on your winterize. I will hold patches up with cinder blocks.when we drop back under freezing
Put some polyethylene sheet on the ground beneath the trailer. That will help a lot with moisture beneath the trailer.
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Old 11-20-2018, 12:09 AM   #16
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I have camped for months in the winter in my 35' SOD. It is a matter of planning ahead and using some pre-winter weather checklists. Almost everything is already mentioned above. One long 6 months winter stay in Omaha, NE, I contracted for a propane dealer to bring 2 100# bottles out, plumb them and keep them full all winter. It worked great. Also, get to know someone who has has experience with RV appliances and does mobile service. If your trailer has already experienced freezing temps there may not be that much damage. Some susceptible items, if that has already happened, could be the fresh water pump; the water strainer leading into it; the city water inlet; the outside faucet next to the city water inlet; faucet; shower fixtures; sink plumbing; spray handles; and the water heater. Obviously, those are the things you want to winterize before leaving an unheated trailer with freezing conditions on the way. If you didn't winterize, hook up some water or compressed air to the city water inlet, and go looking or listening. Then you will know what needs fixing. If this is sound like too much, you get a mobile RV tech to come help you.
Happy trailering.
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Old 11-20-2018, 09:37 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by sstanley1975 View Post
Thank you so much all of you! Lots of great suggestions. I am going to get a generator at Loweís and an extra propane tank to keep full and a dehumidifier. For starters. I am going to skirt the bottom of the trailer once I figure out if I am staying here for the winter or going to be near my daughter in Kentucky and also going to look into the boot camps and the DVDís as well as the groups of women who rv and read the forums. Since I am tiny house living and do not have another home, got to make this work. Again thank you so much! The onesies are a great idea! Haha! I think I have a lot of learning to do and also a great deal of reading! I donít have my own tow vehicle just rent from enterprise whenever I have to move the trailer but for now, itís staying warm and keeping the pipes from freezing.
Hi

What Lowes or Home Depot are most likely to sell you is a "construction generator". Their main attraction is the low price. If you are going to be anywhere near people (including yourself), you want something that is not as noisy and that (hopefully) is more reliable. Yes, you will spend a little more money ...

Living in an AS in an area that goes below freezing and then may stay there for weeks is tough. It also is not cheap. You will burn a *lot* of propane or use a *ton* of electricity to heat the trailer to a livable temperature. A bottle of propane every couple days is not at all uncommon.

Getting water into and out of a trailer when it really gets cold is a challenge. Both the input and outflow lines likely need insulation and heaters. That gets complicated to rig up and the electric bill goes up .... There are a number of ways to do this or that.

Yes, I know what this all sounds like. It's not my intention to freak you out. However you *do* need to dig into this stuff. Setting up for winter living is a chore and it needs to be done right. It takes time and planning. There are lots of resources to help once you get going.

Facing up to the budget is never ever fun, but that's part of living. Assuming you are parking for free, heading to someplace that is even $15 a day (but warm) may not make any sense. This part is very much between you and your bank account.

Lots of fun !!!

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Old 11-27-2018, 02:44 PM   #18
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Ok so I went and got a Briggs and Stratton 3500 watt gasoline powered generator from Loweís tho I have not picked it up yet and I did get a dehumidifier. One thing that puzzles me is that one of my propane tanks wonít empty and Iíve read that this might be a regulator issue? The one of the two propane tanks on the airstream works just fine but once itís out, the other does not give propane out and I have it full. So..... suggestions? Does that generator sound ok? And last of all, two things actually. My lp detector keeps malfunctioning and needing me to hit test to reset it back and stop giving the alert that goes off and turns it orange. Iím assuming Iím going to have to get a new one. And the norcold fridge works on auto (elec and gas) and propane only but will not work on electric only. Iíve read some threads about a fuse on the back of it that may be out. Iím guessing you get to that from the door on the side of the trailer where the fridge sits??? Thank you all for the winter suggestions. Iím fumbling my way through this. I want to get another propane tank if this one wonít work that came on the front but it appears the aluminum 30 lb propane tanks that fit on the front are more pricey than others??? Suggestions? Thanks a heap in advance. Not sure where Iím going to end up for the winter long term until next month so insulation under it until I move again in the next couple of weeks seems like it should wait. Oh and one other thing, Iím not sure I understand why the heat pump isnít kicking on to auxiliary heat using the furnace when it gets below a certain temperature. It did that one night and then never again but the heat pump works and so does the furnace. I guess I donít quite understand what is supposed to happen with that auxiliary setting. Have a great holidays!!!
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Old 11-27-2018, 02:57 PM   #19
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The propane tank might have a stuck part inside the tank. This can happen when a tank is laid on its side. This mechanism keeps the fuel from discharging if a hose bursts. It is a safety device.

Take the tank off of the trailer. Lift it vertically about 8" off of the dirt, then drop it on the bottom, being careful to not drip it on a stone or sharp object. Do this a half dozen times before reinstalling it. If that frees up the mechanism the fuel should flow.

Regarding the B&S Generator; without a model number there is no way for us to tell you. But coming from Lowes, I doubt it is a pure sine wave converter generator.
If you start it up, then try to talk (not yelling) to someone standing near you and they can't hear you, then it is not one that will make neighbors happy, and probably not the correct type that is safe for the trailer's appliances.

If this is it, it is not one I would suggest.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Briggs-Stra...ine/1000258387
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Old 11-28-2018, 06:15 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
The propane tank might have a stuck part inside the tank. This can happen when a tank is laid on its side. This mechanism keeps the fuel from discharging if a hose bursts. It is a safety device.

Take the tank off of the trailer. Lift it vertically about 8" off of the dirt, then drop it on the bottom, being careful to not drip it on a stone or sharp object. Do this a half dozen times before reinstalling it. If that frees up the mechanism the fuel should flow.

Regarding the B&S Generator; without a model number there is no way for us to tell you. But coming from Lowes, I doubt it is a pure sine wave converter generator.
If you start it up, then try to talk (not yelling) to someone standing near you and they can't hear you, then it is not one that will make neighbors happy, and probably not the correct type that is safe for the trailer's appliances.

If this is it, it is not one I would suggest.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Briggs-Stra...ine/1000258387
Generator you mention from Lowes is likely a newer B&S model, and should be fine for sinewave issues. Should be quiet enough. For the propane, not sure about the dropping suggestions. Was it ever working off that tank? You say it is full; if so, try swapping to the other tanks input valve..you can either swap the tanks and leave the plumbing alone, or if it will stretch over, just unscrew the one on empty tank and try on your other tank. Don't forget to turn the tanks off first, and make sure you turn it back on. If there is a problem with something plugging the valve inside the tank, I would talk with your propane dealer about blowing it out somehow. Perhaps someone else here knows better solution.
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Old 11-28-2018, 07:09 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by gypsydad View Post
<<snip>> For the propane, not sure about the dropping suggestions. <<Snip>> .
When I had a similar problem as the OP, I read on this forum (advise from another forum member) several years ago . I did what was advised, it worked. I do not know that this is the problem that the OP's tank has. But it costs nothing to try and only takes a few minutes effort. Why not try it?

This is how/why it works:
First, look at a photo of an Overfill Protection Devise, commonly called an OPD valve. The bottom piece of the valve is a float. Example> https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...d=S3SH22H367O6
As the tank is filled the float moves toward an upward position until that inlet valve is closed. This prevents additional propane from being put into the tank beyond the full level. After it is filled, if the tank is transported in an upright position the float is normally ok. If the tank is transported in a horizontal position, and/or rolled around horizontally as it is being reinstalled, the float can become hung up on the rods that connect the float to the valve, keeping propane outward flow blocked when it should not. Physically jarring a hung float can dislodge the tangle and set the float free. IF that is the problem propane flow might be restored.

Re the generator: I read the specs for the unit I noted in my post above, before I made that post. The spec does not say anything about the sine wave pattern. I think if it had a good, or even improved, wave pattern it would be part of their advertising and specs.
PS:
Before I made my prior post I looked at both Lowes' and B&S's websites. When I looked, I found B&S has their generators are listed in two catagories, "portable" and "inverter". Lowes website only has portable generators listed. I am hopeful that an inverter generator is what the OP purchased, but I have not found a 3500 watt B&S inverter generator
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Old 11-29-2018, 01:47 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
When I had a similar problem as the OP, I read on this forum (advise from another forum member) several years ago . I did what was advised, it worked. I do not know that this is the problem that the OP's tank has. But it costs nothing to try and only takes a few minutes effort. Why not try it?

This is how/why it works:
First, look at a photo of an Overfill Protection Devise, commonly called an OPD valve. The bottom piece of the valve is a float. Example> https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_s...d=S3SH22H367O6
As the tank is filled the float moves toward an upward position until that inlet valve is closed. This prevents additional propane from being put into the tank beyond the full level. After it is filled, if the tank is transported in an upright position the float is normally ok. If the tank is transported in a horizontal position, and/or rolled around horizontally as it is being reinstalled, the float can become hung up on the rods that connect the float to the valve, keeping propane outward flow blocked when it should not. Physically jarring a hung float can dislodge the tangle and set the float free. IF that is the problem propane flow might be restored.

Re the generator: I read the specs for the unit I noted in my post above, before I made that post. The spec does not say anything about the sine wave pattern. I think if it had a good, or even improved, wave pattern it would be part of their advertising and specs.
PS:
Before I made my prior post I looked at both Lowes' and B&S's websites. When I looked, I found B&S has their generators are listed in two catagories, "portable" and "inverter". Lowes website only has portable generators listed. I am hopeful that an inverter generator is what the OP purchased, but I have not found a 3500 watt B&S inverter generator
I believe your correct on Lowes and the B&S generator not being the quiet 3000 series! I thought Lowes had the portable generator from B&S 3000 series with sinewave rated at 59db...if its the industrial unit, I agree; take it back before using...Lows also sells the Champion 3100 Item # 719454 Model # 100261 with remote start for around $1000 which I would suggest looking at. You can find it for $800 on Amazon... also the DualFuel (propane) model for $850, which she could use with her larger propane bottles...my choice...but I have one of these and love it.
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