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Old 10-08-2012, 06:11 PM   #15
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2004 30' Classic Slideout
Fenton , Missouri
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I find that once we hit the 30's, the heat pump is hard pressed to provide the level of comfort that the furnace can. Once the run time is long enough to start triggering the auto defrost, you now lose the heat function while that cycle runs. Unless you are under the covers, it may get uncomfortable. The other factor is in my case if we are running long enough to hit defrost, that means we didn't hit the set point. So now as defrost is occurring, the temp inside drops. It then becomes obvious that you can't keep up and you decide to flip to furnace.


Jack Canavera
AIR #56
'04 Classic 30' S.O.,'03 GMC Savana 2500,'14 Honda CTX 700
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:47 AM   #16
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Evergreen , Colorado
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Well for my 2 cents, I spent a good part of last winter in Breckenridge in my 23D International (2008 model) and was extremely comfortable. I was hooked up at a year-round RV park there, so I had full hook ups (electrical, heated water spicket, sewer, cable). I made the following preparations:

* Skirted with foil backed roll insulation, fixed to the side of the trailer with duct tape (note DO NOT use duct tape. Find gaffers tape instead. It took me a week to get this stuff off my trailer in the spring)
* Homemade insulated water line hose, using heat tape and pipe insulation
* I insulated the sewer lines, and kept the flexi line very short, mostly under the skirting, and insulated where it was exposed to the outside
* Stuffed insulation in the outdoor shower compartment
* small electric space heater under the trailer, surrounded by chicken wire to make sure nothing blew into the heater and started a fire (also used a very safe heater with tip over/overload protection)
* small space heater inside the trailer in the cabinet, directing heat along the passenger side of the trailer to keep water lines from freezing on that side

I also bought some moisture absorbing buckets for the interior to keep condensation under control. Finally, I bought 2 cheap electronic outdoor thermometers, and placed the probes in two spots under the trailer so I could monitor the outdoor temps at night, and the humidity and temp inside as well.

I kept the water on all winter, with two exceptions when I winterized because it was going to be well below zero. Many nights it was around zero, but I should note that it was an odd winter where it was warmer than usual in breckenrige so that helped. I have a large (100 gallon) propane tank on site so I'm not limited by that.

The results? Comfortable the whole time I was up there. The furnace ran quite a lot, but I didn't really care because even spending the money on propane it was incredibly cheap staying there compared to renting anything else in breck, and I had a great little ski lodge to come back to after a day on the slopes. Had my family with me often, a friend up once - and we all loved it.

You just have to take precautions. And I would think boondocking without electrical would be nearly impossible in these conditions. With good hook ups its great!

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Old 10-15-2012, 06:58 PM   #17
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1979 31' Sovereign
Northeastern , Kentucky
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Any pics of the skirting?
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Old 10-15-2012, 10:56 PM   #18
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Evergreen , Colorado
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Unfortunately I don't. But I wouldn't recommend my skirting method anyway. It looked a little white trash if you ask me Plus after the winter I had to throw out all that roll insulation as it was torn taking it off, so it was bad for the environment.

This year I'm going with 2" rigid foil backed panels. I bought 4 4x8 sheets which I will cut in half along the length. I'll tape them together, use some 2x4's for bottom bracing (under the trailer out of sight behind the panels) for heavy winds, and I'll build an access panel to get to the heater.

Also - I stack snow up around the perimeter when it's available (not a problem in Breckenridge) as it's just one more layer of insulation and wind protection.

I'll take some pictures when it's done.
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Old 10-17-2012, 10:29 AM   #19
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1983 34' Limited
Wheat Ridge , Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2012
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I would love to see what you do. Wintering in our 34ft here in Wheat Ridge this winter and would love to see what you are doing! We have full electric hook up and was pretty sure we will have a 100lb tank on site as well. Found a great place to get one from that we can rent for next to nothing. Just have to pay to fill it and then we use the 2 30lbs for back ups. We don't have a sewer hook up but have a portable for now. Figure if we can't use the bathroom on cold times no biggie.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:44 PM   #20
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2005 25' International CCD
Everywhere , North America
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comfortable in cold

We are full-timing in our 2005 25' with shiny interior. We've spent nine days with nights to 19F. Daytime we used our catalytic heater (permanent install, hinged mount) with proper ventilation both for moisture AND replacing 02. Nighttime we set the propane furnace on 45F, the low limit on this after-market digital t-stat.

It runs some, a good thing, but not too much. The ducting includes sink bases and under pantry (plumbing lives there) and under-floor tanks/plumbing.

This past October we were crossing from Bend OR to Boise UT and stayed overnight in the high plains. Low temp we recorded was 11F. Same scenario with furnace set on 45F -- and yes, it ran more. We had zero problems with plumbing, all the faucets and piping worked fine (we were NOT hooked up to exterior water supply).

The keys, as some posters stated above, are to keep enough propane on hand, have enough battery or shore power, and be sure to let the furnace do its job. The furnace will run heat to the plumbing places.

If I was stationary awhile, I think I would adopt skirting and keep one or two 60 watt light bulbs heating the newly enclosed space. Just conjecture . . .

Living the Dream

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