city water and electric?

[GypsyKarma]

Has anyone remained hooked up to city water and electric for an extended period of time? What adapters/gadgets do you recommend? Any considerations?

Thanks!

[kb0zke]

Many of us do that all the time.

Use a GOOD power management system, such as the ones from Progressive Industries. These are more than just a cheap surge protector. They will also shut down the electricity if the voltage is too high or too low.

Use a pressure regulator and a good water filter. Change the filter element regularly.

You didn't ask about sewer, but DO NOT leave the sewer hose connected and the valves open. You will end up with a solid mess in the black tank. You can leave the sewer hose connected and the GREY water valve open if you want. Just remember to close it a day or two before you are ready to dump the black tank. Then dump black tank, then grey tank. That will "rinse" the pipes a bit.

[moosetags]

How long do you mean by extended period? When we are at home, Lucy stays hooked to shore power for several months at a time with no apparent damage. We use water from the on-board tank, and refill the tank as necessary. We have been following this routine for over ten years.

Brian

[AWCHIEF]

I have more or less permanent three point hook ups at home. 30 amp line for AC power and normal marine water hose with attached filter. For the sewer dump I use a PVC pipe direct to a county sewer line.

[GypsyKarma]

Thanks guys! It will be months on end. Do you have links to specific gadgets? Sorry I'm a super newby on that and don't even know what to look for...

[AWCHIEF]

Originally Posted by GypsyKarma

Thanks guys! It will be months on end. Do you have links to specific gadgets? Sorry I'm a super newby on that and don't even know what to look for...

No specific gadgets needed in at least my case. If you do decide to install a 30 Amp line call a local licensed electrician and discuss your needs. Water hoses and PVC pipe can be purchased at any big box or hardware store.

[GypsyKarma]

I am using a composting toilet. I won't have black water but I do want to leave the grey water valve open. Thanks for the advice!

[m.hony]

Some people live in them hooked up to city water and electricity for years and years.

[OTRA15]

Good advice so far. Composting toilet makes this easier. Suggest letting grey water fill tank every so often, for the dump valve to stay operable and lubricated. Is winter and freezing pipes an issue? If in Georgia keep this in mind next winter.

Good luck!

Cheers,

Peter

PS welcome to the forum!

[xrvr]

Just curious, what are you gonna do with the gray water? We run ours out to the woods with a garden hose, not exactly legal, but it works.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by avionstream

Just curious, what are you gonna do with the gray water? We run ours out to the woods with a garden hose, not exactly legal, but it works.

Lots of campgrounds permit this, and in rural areas where residential domestic waste goes only into basic cesspools, both the household black and grey water goes right into the ground 4-8' +/- below the surface.

Letting grey water run onto the ground at least separates it out, and can actually water the ground, gardens, etc.. Indeed, during drought conditions, plenty of states encourage the diversion of grey water onto the ground at private residences, except for vegetables and other edible plants.

[GypsyKarma]

Greywater is typically good for the plants and the ground if you use soaps that are biodegradable. We have always dumped our dish water on the plants. The castile soap helps to kill bugs and the food bits actually nourish the soil. I'm guessing I will just need to find the right converter to plug into to use a typical household drop cord.

[OTRA15]

Without having air conditioning?

[GypsyKarma]

For example, is this what I would need?

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-adapter/69611

And those of you that leave it this way, will it run your AC unit?

[OTRA15]

Your electrical needs, if you want to use the air conditioning, can vary on what other uses you have. I am going to post a few links to existing threads on what amperage circuit you need, depending on the size of your A/C. If that Camping World adapter is what you plan to plug into a 15 amp circuit, you will not be able to run your A/C safely IMO.

You also need to pay attention to the length and American Wire Gauge [AWG] size of your extension cord, if any. If the trailer's umbilical cord cannot plug directly into a duplex receptacle ("outlet"), you should probably consider having a #12 AWG extension cord, not longer than 50' or so.

My knowledge is limited in this matter, so other than the links to follow, I will bow out here.

Good luck!

Peter

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...ed-150863.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...rd-153316.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...-a-140491.html

You could also peruse the threads listed in the following sub-forum:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by GypsyKarma

For example, is this what I would need?

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...-adapter/69611

And those of you that leave it this way, will it run your AC unit?

There is no answer that is correct for every situation. You need to know a few things.
1. If you only charge the batteries, nothing else, yes that adapter is perfect.

2. What size is the circuit that you are plugging into? A residential plug that will accept the adapter you linked to can be either 15 or 20 amp 120v alternating current. A 15amp MIGHT start your air conditioner if you turn off everything else, EVERYTHING!! If it starts it might damage the AC in the long run. If you plug in anything else, it will trip the breaker. There possibly could be damage to the AC if it is run with low voltage for extended time. (the AC manufacturer's specifications say "20 amp" circuit is the minimum size power supply and also limits the length of 12 ga wire in the circuit, if memory serves me, to 24 feet)

2. If that adapter is rated 20 amp AND your receptacle is rated 20 amp AND that receptacle is on a 20 amp circuit breaker with the correct ga wire AND the total length of wiring in that circuit is short enough that there is little loss of current, then I would say it will run the AC unit without damaging anything. BUT, if you turn on something like your hair dryer it will begin to overload the circuit.

3. Even if you have a properly installed 30 amp RV circuit you still have to consider every item you plug in. Remember the converter is always plugged in, using 120v power to charge batteries and power all 12 volt items. You may have the refrigerator on 120V. An example: if you run the AC during hot weather or a small electric heater in the winter and at the same time you want to use the electric coffee maker, all is well. But while you are waiting for coffee you decide to turn on your hair drier. Something will trip.

You will learn how to manage loads pretty quickly, because tripping breakers and melting cords will educate you. Replacing an air conditioner gets expensive!

IMO, you will need to have 30 amps if you are living in it full time, or forgo air conditioning and electric space heaters.

[kb0zke]

It sounds like you need to talk to someone who understands electricity and can look at your specific situation. There are quite a few people on this forum who can advise you. IF you are comfortable doing so, you might post your location (city and State) and see if such a knowledgeable Airstreamer is close enough to you to give you some personal advice.

[GypsyKarma]

Ugh! Yes! I need help! I'm going to look at two places sunday and will need to be able to assess the electrical availability. I'm in Atlanta, GA.

My refrigerator and stove etc run on propane. It would just be for ac, heat, and phone charging mostly, maybe a salt lamp. I don't use a lot of power.

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by GypsyKarma

Ugh! Yes! I need help! I'm going to look at two places sunday and will need to be able to assess the electrical availability. I'm in Atlanta, GA.

My refrigerator and stove etc run on propane. It would just be for ac, heat, and phone charging mostly, maybe a salt lamp. I don't use a lot of power.

The air conditioner sets the bar for your electric needs. If you tell us what your A/C is, better advice can be given. You probably need at least a dedicated 20 amp circuit for the trailer, but 30 amps would be best (assuming that you have the 1973 31' Sovereign shown in your sidebar ID).

There are many other variables, as mentioned by A W Warn, but knowing your actual A/C would make for a good start. The distance from the trailer to your plug-in location, and the electrical setup at the new location(s), will also come into play.

Peter