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Old 12-27-2012, 01:01 PM   #15
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1966 22' Safari
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Saline , Michigan
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I built a garage for our Safari this fall but instead of roll up roof and the added height needed for clearance of the door tracking, I installed bi-fold doors. Simple to build and way cheaper to make, like $1500.00 cheaper.
Works great and you also have the added benefit of only opening one door. Of course not needed for a carport, but it does give you the option of installing one later, if it becomes enclosed..

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Old 12-27-2012, 04:05 PM   #16
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I also put hinged doors on my AS cover, they work quite good and I don't open them that much anyway. Maybe the photo attached, still learning. I have a lot of painting & trim to do, electrical & plumbing.
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Old 12-27-2012, 07:46 PM   #17
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Great Ideas!

Thanks to each of you for these suggestions. All of which I never gave any consideration but these suggestions will definitely will be on the list of must haves. As this develops in the coming months I'll post some photos.
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Old 12-27-2012, 09:52 PM   #18
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Use of metal roof perlings requires bird proofing. There are great manufactured beams of resin and woods now being used for load bearing beams in modern construction.
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Old 12-28-2012, 03:50 AM   #19

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Thumbs up

Originally Posted by DryFly View Post
A 4" thick slab with re-mesh or re-bar, assuming it's poured on a good rock base, should very easily hold a 25' AS and a whole lot more. The base is the most important - excavate down to undisturbed soil, fill with gravel or crushed rock for drainage and then add concrete. You might want to consider a slight (1/8"/ft) slope in case you or someone wants to enclose the structure at some point. Also, you should use the "thickened" slab perimeter method.
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
The "thickened slab" method is known as a "monolithic" slab. In lieu of wire mesh or rebar, there is a newer technology that uses glass fibers.
You might consider an epoxy paint finish to prevent staining of the slab.



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Old 12-29-2012, 05:49 PM   #20
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You can be really creative with a "barn".....
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:24 PM   #21
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In South Texas (most of Texas) wind load. And, protection from flying debris. Tiedowns per INLAND/Andy's suggestions (might be combined with anti-theft).

And, with the heat, all predatory types (birds, spiders, etc) will love the new roost you've provided. I'd do what I could via construction to keep this problem down.

Don't forget sun orientation changes through the seasons!!
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Old 12-29-2012, 07:36 PM   #22
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Wish List for Airstream "Carport"

I haven't gotten to the stage of actually having it built, but I have been considering a pole barn/carport type of storage for my Airstream and Argosy -- side by side with additional length such that the Suburban can be parked in front of the Argosy and the Cadillac parked in front of the Airstream. At the top of my "wish list" are two very large exhaust fans (with variable speed controls mounted on a sidewall of the building) mounted in each of the gable ends (the largest that can be accommodated and permanently mounted in the gables) to insure airflow on those days when I want to work on either the Airstreams or the tow vehicles. I can't stand heat and humidity so air movement is a requirement for my storage shelter.

Kevin D. Allen
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:13 PM   #23
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If you build something with both ends open, and it gets windy, especially if you have walls or partial walls on the sides, you'll need braces at the front and back corners. These can be 2x4's or 2x6's attached down the side and to the beam across the top. These will make barriers for the trailer sides if the roof is too low. A high wind and no braces and the whole structure can fall over.

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Old 12-30-2012, 03:42 PM   #24
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Even if it is Texas and wide open spaces, make sure you don't include a turn close to entrance and exit. Those side wall suggestions are good but make sure you have vents near high points.
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Old 04-14-2013, 07:09 PM   #25
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Spanish Fort , Alabama
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Just completing our trailerport

Saw your post and thought I would pass along photos of the "trailerport" we are completing in our back yard for our 25" Safari. I had an existing pad which allowed us to build our main structure 30' long by 14' wide by 12' high. Were I starting from scratch, I would have made the pad a bit wider, but it is what it is. We opted for a metal roof with plywood underneath to protect from hail or falling limbs (we live in a hurricane prone area of the Gulf Coast). I also build a 12x30 lean-to off the side which has sufficient height to park my pickup and have workbench/cooking areas which will have pavers for flooring. 30 amp service installed with water available. Lighting is a work in progress. I think this will work for us nicely as our main consideration is protection from sun damage.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:00 PM   #26
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Now for the roof. That is coming.
Peace and Blessings..
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:33 PM   #27
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I didn't reall ALL the posts, but I'd say if you can make the roof supports such that you can put planking in the bottom chords of the roof trusses so you can work on the top of the trailer, that would be awesome. I'd suggest also drainage for washing it under the cover, out of the sun? And, would you want a sewer/water hookup so you could use it where it is? I think the idea of the screening around the sides is cool, some way of protecting it from blowing debris. Where I am, I'd want to enclose the carport- I'm an architect and am always thinking of ways to house an Airstream in a simple but very cool building, using the AS as a utility module- bath/cooking/sleeping
Wherever you go, there you are
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Old 04-22-2013, 06:48 PM   #28
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Thank you for the recent thread postings and suggestions. Funny thing is that I thought planning this Airstream parking/covered storage space was going to be the most challenging thing. But now it's turning out that finding a home builder that doesn't want to gouge us with the oil & gas boom is the bigger challenge. But all the suggestions so far are great and have opened my eyes to many things I would have never thought to consider.

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