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Old 11-19-2015, 07:47 AM   #29
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2008 25' Classic
Wichita Falls , Texas
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Winterizing with antifreeze I would think is less time consuming. I've never tried antifreeze but when I use my air compressor and have it attached with the quick connect fitting to the city water connector, I will run air through each faucet and drain valves multiple times just to make sure. With antifreeze I would think it would be a 10 minute operation after the water heater and water tanks are drained.

I would like to put a diverter valve in but the way the PEX is routed up from the water tank to the water pump it would be difficult for me to get PEX tools in there. Never worked on PEX.


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Old 11-19-2015, 08:37 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
Winterizing with antifreeze I would think is less time consuming.
I've done done and won't go back to antifreeze. Blowing out the lines doesn't take long. And with antifreeze you need to count the time it takes to flush it out.

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Old 11-20-2015, 01:44 AM   #31
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Blowing out is adequate IMO if done right, plus antifreeze if you feel the need and can live with the chemical poison/sensitivity/taste (remote) possibilities IMO.

Redundancy rocks . . .

Measure twice, cut once . . .

Belts and braces . . .

No burst pipes in the Spring!

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Old 11-20-2015, 04:47 AM   #32
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That Stihl backpack leave blower makes a great leak tester.

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Old 12-03-2015, 11:49 PM   #33
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I do both - belts and braces. I have a small 12 volt Viair compressor and a 7.5 gal Jegs air tank that I use on the road for tires, Airsafe, etc. but it does not have the capacity to blow out the plumbing. So I bought a Mi-T-M 20 gal compressor (great American-made product!). My engineer son-in-law pointed out that if you use a oiled compressor, you want to install a particulate and a coalescing filter to prevent any minute amounts of motor oil being blown into your drinking water system. So I installed those as well. Being one to over-engineer everything I touch, I also added a cutoff valve before my water pump to siphon antifreeze through the pipes as well, and then pour some more straight down the traps. Overkill? Absolutely, but I have less than $800 invested to protect an $80k trailer - and water inside the trailer is your worst enemy.

My only heartburn is that, in the 27FB model, to actually get to the water pump and siphon cutoff, I have to remove the whole floor of the closet - which is a pain!

But, playing with my toys becomes one of the rites of fall as I blow out all water and and add, anti-freeze, and again in the spring, when I use the compressor to blow out all anti-freeze when I flush the system for the camping season. And, toys are good!

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Old 12-04-2015, 04:34 AM   #34
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Tim - my 27FB is a different year but to get to the pump I just have to pull open the two "cabinet faces" underneath the closet doors. Are they no longer made like that?
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Old 12-04-2015, 05:41 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by 65CV View Post
That Stihl backpack leave blower makes a great leak tester.

See this post

Well, I guess that answers my question - I have a pesky leak someplace up in the lounge area at the front of our trailer that I have not been able to pinpoint, so maybe the next step is my trusty backpack blower - as if I don't already annoy the neighbours enough with it!

I'm curious though about the method.

If I make up some sort of cardboard or plywood panel to close up the door opening and apply the air from my leaf blower through it, is that all I need to do, or are there other major "natural" leakage paths that I need to tape up to make this test will be effective in revealing leaking seams, poor caulking etc?

I'm thinking of possible air escape locations like the large rear storage hatch, maybe the fridge / HW heat vent panels, areas that give access to the water tanks via the closet floor and such.

Unless these are major air leakage routes - or there are just too many such routes - I would think that the leaf blower should still be able to develop enough pressure to reveal seam / caulking leaks in the shell, but don't know.

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Old 12-04-2015, 08:38 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Adiredneck View Post

My only heartburn is that, in the 27FB model, to actually get to the water pump and siphon cutoff, I have to remove the whole floor of the closet - which is a pain!

The cabinet face directly below the coat closet is actually two small doors. Open the coat closet doors the reach down and pull open those doors. This gives direct access to the water pump. To make it even easier you can unclip the European style hinge and total remove the doors. There's no need to remove the closet floor.
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Old 12-21-2015, 04:15 PM   #37
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It's been suggested here on forums. I tried without success

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Old 12-27-2015, 05:51 PM   #38
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Greenwood , Mississippi
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Got an air tank on order-
It's on the way-
I winterized one last time with the bicycle pump-
No big deal-
Drain the water heater-
Bypass the water heater-
Pump, pump, pump-
Kitchen sink till only air-
Pump, pump, pump-
Shower till only air-
Pump, pump, pump-
Bathroom lavatory till only air-
Pump, pump, pump-
Outside shower till only air-
Pump, pump, pump-
Low point drains till only air-
Then antifreeze from the jug with the pump till kitchen sink, shower, lavatory, toilet, outside shower and low point drains run pink-
Probably redundant and overkill, but habit-
Trailer is protected-

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