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Old 11-21-2007, 06:46 AM   #21
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here is mine about 5 or 6 bucks. the hose adaptor is from ace hardware and the air fitting is just common stuff from ace too.



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Old 11-21-2007, 08:10 AM   #22
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My manual says that 60psi is about right.

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Old 11-21-2007, 08:15 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
here is mine about 5 or 6 bucks. the hose adaptor is from ace hardware and the air fitting is just common stuff from ace too.



john
My fitting is like this one. I put it together with parts from Home Depot.
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Old 11-21-2007, 08:27 AM   #24
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I've used "air only method" for the past 8 yrs, with this addition, RV antifreeze in the drain traps. I like the setup shown, and it should make any future winterizing efforts so much easier. (Beats walking back and forth.) Thanks
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:49 AM   #25
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Don't forget toilet valves

John, I love your plug. You can now buy those preassembled as a single forged unit.

Important note about air: If you have a Sealand toilet, you need to use antifreeze or remove and drain the valve from the toilet. Air cannot get the water out of the valve and it busts the valve. We've seen it several times when owners don't read their Sealand manuals. We recommend antifreeze in the system for these hidden areas.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:57 AM   #26
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Air Pressure

Be careful of the air pressure when using a tight fitting. I just use the air gun with a rag to seal the hose inlet. Continuous short blasts with open valves will do the trick.
I always pump RV antifreeze after the air out. Better safe than sorry.
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:03 AM   #27
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I too do the air method followed by running anti-freeze to the high point in the trailer -- the shower head (about a gallon) followed by a couple of cups in all of the traps and some in the toilet bowl to keep the seal lubricated.
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:05 AM   #28
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air pressure

The air pressure really doesn't matter, as long as the trailer still has it's water pressure regulator, as it also regulates the air pressure.

Andy
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:18 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomW View Post
I made an adapter out of an old garden hose end.

Since the regulator pressure is set at 40 psi, the electrical tape used to make up the difference between the airline fitting and the hose has proven, over the last four years, to work well.

Tom
That is exactly how I do it. I start with all the faucets open and go in the trailer and alterenatly open/close until all water is out. Sal.
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:49 AM   #30
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Air Pressure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
The air pressure really doesn't matter, as long as the trailer still has it's water pressure regulator, as it also regulates the air pressure.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post

Andy
Andy, you may be right on a trailer with no hose reel. I would not do that on a motorhome with 75' of expensive hose on the reel.
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:53 AM   #31
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Quote:
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Andy, you may be right on a trailer with no hose reel. I would not do that on a motorhome with 75' of expensive hose on the reel.
Dave
I agree, but some trailers back then also had a hose reel too.

So, if your "COACH" has a hose reel, limit the air pressure input to 45 PSI.

Andy
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