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Old 11-20-2007, 03:36 PM   #15
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Huntsville , Alabama
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Low cost option

I made an adapter out of an old garden hose end.

Since the regulator pressure is set at 40 psi, the electrical tape used to make up the difference between the airline fitting and the hose has proven, over the last four years, to work well.

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1967 Airstream Overlander International
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Old 11-20-2007, 03:58 PM   #16
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2007 27' Classic FB
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You should be able to buy the air chuck at any NAPA auto parts or similar.
Also instead of the tire chuck setup you can buy a brass hose fitting and screw a regular air fitting into it. Available at Home Depot or Lowes

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Old 11-20-2007, 05:03 PM   #17
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The first time I winterized with compressed air a small piece of teflon tape got caught in the commode valve. It was some excess left in the water lines during manufacturing.
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Old 11-20-2007, 06:06 PM   #18
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Blow out the lines with air , fill the traps with antifreeze , run a 1/2 cup antifreeze thru the pump , diconeect the shower hose . This has been good for me for 12 years , we see -20 several times a winter . I also remove the water filter and leave the rear drain valves and HW drain open.

FWIW I like to attach the air to the kitchen faucet so everything goes out the back .
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Old 11-20-2007, 07:01 PM   #19
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another tool????

oh great, another tool I need. Looks like it does a great job,BUT WAIT! I've got a wife bought and paid for and she does a great job holding the thingie on the blow out plug.........
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Old 11-21-2007, 06:34 AM   #20
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Northern Tool and Equipment has them for $5.99.

Of course the price goes up a bit because of shipping. But, if you live in a remote area, this may be the way to go for You.

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Old 11-21-2007, 06:46 AM   #21
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here is mine about 5 or 6 bucks. the hose adaptor is from ace hardware and the air fitting is just common stuff from ace too.

you call them ferrets, i call them weasels.
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Old 11-21-2007, 08:10 AM   #22
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My manual says that 60psi is about right.

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Old 11-21-2007, 08:15 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by john hd
here is mine about 5 or 6 bucks. the hose adaptor is from ace hardware and the air fitting is just common stuff from ace too.

My fitting is like this one. I put it together with parts from Home Depot.
2006 30' Safari - "Changes in Latitudes"
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Old 11-21-2007, 08:27 AM   #24
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I've used "air only method" for the past 8 yrs, with this addition, RV antifreeze in the drain traps. I like the setup shown, and it should make any future winterizing efforts so much easier. (Beats walking back and forth.) Thanks
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:49 AM   #25
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1956 22' Caravanner
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Montpelier , Vermont
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Don't forget toilet valves

John, I love your plug. You can now buy those preassembled as a single forged unit.

Important note about air: If you have a Sealand toilet, you need to use antifreeze or remove and drain the valve from the toilet. Air cannot get the water out of the valve and it busts the valve. We've seen it several times when owners don't read their Sealand manuals. We recommend antifreeze in the system for these hidden areas.
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:57 AM   #26
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Air Pressure

Be careful of the air pressure when using a tight fitting. I just use the air gun with a rag to seal the hose inlet. Continuous short blasts with open valves will do the trick.
I always pump RV antifreeze after the air out. Better safe than sorry.
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:03 AM   #27
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I too do the air method followed by running anti-freeze to the high point in the trailer -- the shower head (about a gallon) followed by a couple of cups in all of the traps and some in the toilet bowl to keep the seal lubricated.
Tom & Lori

2013 27 FB Classic Limited
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:05 AM   #28
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air pressure

The air pressure really doesn't matter, as long as the trailer still has it's water pressure regulator, as it also regulates the air pressure.


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