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Old 11-28-2004, 07:41 AM   #99
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Carol, you don't need either anti-freeze or chemical in the black tank. Just drain it. Any remaining small amount of water can freeze in the bottom of the tank without harm. Just give the tank a few good rinsings before you empty it. Nick.
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Old 11-28-2004, 10:05 AM   #100
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I think this is somewhat related to this thread, so I'm asking my question here. When draining the water system for winterizing, we have to open the drain valve located under the trailer, door side, behind the first of the wheels. Impossible! I haven't successfully opened this valve yet, even after laying down flat, hugging the wheel, and twisting my arm back around and up to reach the TINY handle. Someone please explain to me how this is supposed to be opened. Can a larger, more functionable (??)handle replace this miniscule one? Every time I try, I swear I am going to break off the handle, though that would suggest I am actually getting a grasp on it. Advice please. This is going to be a long term problem for me if I don't find a better solution. Thanks in advance! --Georgia
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Old 11-28-2004, 01:08 PM   #101
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Georgia, there is usually another drain plug in the base of the tank, covered by a small aluminium removable hatch. After removing about 8 self-tappers, a hexagon wrench will remove the drain plug. However, this is no easier than the plastic tap you mentioned, although it does drain more water. The easy solution is to drain the tank by running the electric pump until the water flow stops. Then chuck in a tablespoon full of baking soda through the filler opening to keep the water fresh. You might want to drain the tank fully every few years, and pass a little iodine or chlorine to kill any bugs. A few gallons of water left in the tank will have plenty of room to expand if it freezes. Nick.
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Old 11-28-2004, 04:54 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxandgeorgia
Impossible! I haven't successfully opened this valve yet, even after laying down flat, hugging the wheel, and twisting my arm back around and up to reach the TINY handle. Someone please explain to me how this is supposed to be opened. Can a larger, more functionable (??)handle replace this miniscule one?
Georgia, I'm assuming you are dealing with the fresh water tank drain. It is a bear to open since if you are like me, you may only use it infrequently. One of the ways I keep it flexible is with silicone spray. Getting it to move initially is difficult. I sometime wedge a screwdriver between the stop and the handle. Once you can get it away from the stop, you can get your fingers around it. The silicone needs to be done a few times a year. The key is just moving it from the closed and open position several times a year.

I guess you also saw your two low water drains which are nearby. I sometimes need to use a plyers to get those moving also.

Jack
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Old 04-06-2005, 05:11 PM   #103
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I am trying to get a message posted. Where do you go? I just bought my International AS and need a little advice on the septic tank maintence since I do not plan on using it, I also have some condensation inside one of my back tail lights. I would also like to name my new trailer and put a decal on it. I am also curious if I got a good deal, and I'm sure one of ya'll would know. Thanks, Xtina
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Old 04-06-2005, 05:28 PM   #104
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Xtina,

What I do is go to the "forums" tab at the top, find the appropriate category, go to that section and you will find a 'new thread' button. Good luck, and welcome!
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Old 04-06-2005, 08:35 PM   #105
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Question Did you get a good deal?

I'm not prejudiced or anything like that, but ----if you bought an A/S--- I think you got a good deal, but then sometimes my thinking just goes in one direction Welcome to the group. You'll find lots of help & friends here
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Old 10-25-2005, 08:52 AM   #106
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Winter in Albuquerque

I have just bought a house in Albuquerque. My Safari is on order in Texas and I will bring it back to the new house in the beginning of the year. I have a space to park it on the property but wonder how best to keep it from being damaged over the winter. I really don't want to winterize it and can run power to it from the house. Someone who knows how severe the winter can get there can best tell me what I need to do but any advise would be welcome.
(I will build a heated storage area in the spring).
Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-25-2005, 07:13 PM   #107
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Well to be honest you need to run the furnace to keep the areas that have water protected. Your Airstream is not a 4 season trailer so you will potentially need a significant amount of propane, probably an auxilary 100 gallon tank which will minimize the need for fillups. I'm assuming you aren't going to drain your water heater either so you will need to keep that turned on.

Based on the properities of water, damage based on freezing will occur once the water temps drop below 32 degrees. The severity of the weather will dictate how much fuel you will use to keep water temps above 32 degrees.

My advice is if you aren't going to use it, winterize it. Since you are buying new and assuming the dealer is doing a normal test of all systems which would include putting water in the lines, have him winterize it. My dealer had my trailer ready to live in overnight when I picked it up after Thanksgiving. After we tested all systems together, he blew out the lines and pumped in the RV antifreeze at no additional charge. Your dealer should do the same for you.

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Old 10-25-2005, 11:55 PM   #108
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Thanks for the advise. We would like to do some camping on our way from Ft. Worth to Albuquerque to get familiar with things away for the dealer (at least one over night stay there). I plan on a slow go.

Does anyone know the dealer in Albuquerque? I think it would be good to go there for the first winterize.

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Old 10-26-2005, 10:34 AM   #109
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A newbie here. First post. Does anyone have any experience with re-plumbing an Airstream using PEX? PEX is a cross-linked polyethylene system that routes all the water through a manifold, then distributes water to each outlet independently. I.E. each fixture has its own line. PEX-based systems are becoming more common within the housing industry. PEX can expand more than the 9% change in volume that accompanies freezing water without damage.
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Old 10-26-2005, 03:54 PM   #110
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Water Tank Suction Line

I'm in the process of winterizing my 22' CCD. 2nd year of doing it. Pretty much routine: isolated and drained the water heater, blew out water lines with compressed air, put 3 1/2 gallons of RV anti-freeze in the water holding tank to pump though the lines and water pump (same quantity as used last year). However, I'm not getting suction. I've jacked the trailer up and down to try to make suction, but it's not working.
Does anyone know where the suction line is located in the tank, usually? Forward, Center, Rear?
Any ideas what to try next, besides more anti-freeze in the tank? I'll try that tomorrow. The water pump worked the last time we used it, a month ago.
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Old 10-26-2005, 04:57 PM   #111
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I remember on my old SOB took 4 gallons to make sure I got suction and enough quantity to get through all the lines. Do you have access to your pump? If you do you can buy the Camco winterizing kit which includes the valve and the hose. The valve won't fit on my Classic without relocating the pump, due to the wheel well. At this time I use the hose provided in the kit, which screws onto the pump intake side. The other side of the hose goes into the anti-freeze bottle.

The other possiblity is that the pump lost its prime and can't generate enough suction to pull the anti-freeze up from the tank.

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Old 10-26-2005, 05:08 PM   #112
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The water pump in the CCD is real difficult to access. It's behind the back panel of the bottom drawer under the kitchen sink. There are about 8 screws to remove and you need to use a knive to wedge the panel away from the back supports. A real pain. The water pump doesn't have a separate antifreeze supply line and valves. I had that on my Jayco. It made winterizing real easy. I guess I'll try another gallon or two of anti-freeze. If that doesn't work and the pump fails to self prime, then I guess it's back to the dealer for another warranty service.
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