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rseagle · 10-30-2005, 03:50 PM

I added another gallon of anti-freeze to the water holding tank (4 1/2 gallons total). As soon as I turned on the water pump switch, the pump started running. Normal when the system isn't pressurized. However, when I opened the faucet, it only spit some anti-freeze and never went to a steady flow. The pump continued to run (working hard), even after I closed the faucet. This indicates that there is a problem with the pump or something on the suction side preventing the pressure to hold.

Has anyone had a similar problem with their water pump?

CanoeStream · 10-30-2005, 05:41 PM

... but I'm going to pose one more thought. If the latest gallon just got the level to where it'd draw, what if pumping some of that gallon up into your pipes pulled it down to where it was drawing air again? (thus the spitting)

I don't have the best notion of whether the intake out of your fresh tank is in the middle or on either side. If it is the latter you might see what happens if you alternate running either the right or left tires up onto a 2x6 -- or two. Then is it either fore or aft in the tank, thus affected by tongue height (hadn't we gone there already?).

It takes a little tinkering but installing the Camco 3-way winterizing valve let me winterize with only two gallons! Amounts may vary. My access was very difficult but my Argosy experience helps me take things apart -- maybe a little too well. I have a couple herniated disks in my neck and had a very tough week at work because of last Sunday's valve installation. I wish the neck had as workable a solution.

Anybody else have suggestions on accessing 22' CCD pumps?

**jcanavera** · 10-30-2005, 09:17 PM

Bob, have you ever drained the fresh water tank after the pump has pretty much gone dry? Has it drained for a while? If so then you pretty much have answered your question and your pickup in the fresh water tank isn't low enough to really drain the tank. This is the danger when using the tank method to winterize. When undrained, or pumped water left in the tank will dilute the antifreeze.

Jack

CanoeStream · 10-30-2005, 09:46 PM

I was directing attention back to rseagle or 'Bauxite Bungalow' Bob. I feel he still has an issue from about 3 posts back where he asks for help from those with similar problems. I also think 22' CCD owners with experience accessing their water pump could help. Any ideas out there?

And I prefer to read Jack's last post as being directed at helping rseagle -- Jack always seems to have "been there, done that." Know I don't pass up many of his posts!

rseagle · 10-31-2005, 02:45 AM

Here's what I know:
I had drained the tank of water before starting the winterizing. I even jacked the front up higher to allow water to flow to the outlet at the rear of the tank. The 4 1/2 gallons of anti-freeze represents almost 1/4 of my tank capacity. The inlet to the suction line is low enoungh for me to almost completely drain the tank of water on camping trips. The trailer is level. The spitting started immediately upon switching the pump on and opening the faucet. I believe that I should have gotten full flow as soon as the anti-freeze reached the pump. It didn't! I did last year with 3 1/2 gallons.

What I speculate: It apprears that the check valve or the pump is the problem.

05ModPod · 10-31-2005, 07:20 AM

I have read several pages of this thread but not all - hoping to find other tips on winterizing than "antifreeze" and pipes.

I know that taking out all the food is a really good idea

- but what else do we really have to take out?

2 hours N/E of Toronto - so we get a nice cold winter. So it is a no brainer that anything that can freeze and damage is a given for warmer storage....However is it really necessary to take out all the cushions? and if they go - do the curtains have to come out too. Is there really that bad of a chance of getting mold if the trailer stays brrrrcold???

Any insight would be appreciated - from a similar climate. Thanks

**jcanavera** · 10-31-2005, 07:45 AM

We pull all food items out and liquids. I give the insides of the trailer a good cleaning. We leave in towels, dish cloths, sheets and blankets. I'll open the doors of the refrigerator and freezer to prevent any moisture buildup. If they don't stay open, I'll use a small dowel rod or curtain rod to keep the doors cracked open. I make sure the gas is turned off, activate the master disconnect and remove the batteries for storage at home. I'll cover the tires and make sure the trailer is level. That prevents any water from sneaking into areas where it could freeze and expand potentially causing future leaks. I close the shades curtains and skylights to keep light out of the inside of the trailer.

One last thought if you are storing your trailer on a concrete pad, try to place something under the tires, cardboard, newspaper, etc. The reason is that the lime compounds in concrete will leach away the compounds used to prevent the tire from UV and cracking. If you have had a vehicle parked on concrete for long periods of time, you will see the black spots where your tires sat. That's the leaching process going on.

Jack

Mike Lewis · 10-31-2005, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rseagle

Here's what I know:
I had drained the tank of water before starting the winterizing. I even jacked the front up higher to allow water to flow to the outlet at the rear of the tank. The 4 1/2 gallons of anti-freeze represents almost 1/4 of my tank capacity. The inlet to the suction line is low enoungh for me to almost completely drain the tank of water on camping trips. The trailer is level. The spitting started immediately upon switching the pump on and opening the faucet. I believe that I should have gotten full flow as soon as the anti-freeze reached the pump. It didn't! I did last year with 3 1/2 gallons.

What I speculate: It apprears that the check valve or the pump is the problem.

Just a thought ---a you sure you have the water heater bypassed correctly? Is it possable you could be filling the heater ?
Pieman

**jcanavera** · 10-31-2005, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

Just a thought ---a you sure you have the water heater bypassed correctly? Is it possable you could be filling the heater ?
Pieman

Wow, good thought. If you aren't sure about the positioning of the valves, open up that drain plug on the heater. If you get lots of pink stuff pouring out, you've got your answer!

Jack

05ModPod · 10-31-2005, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcanavera

One last thought if you are storing your trailer on a concrete pad, try to place something under the tires, cardboard, newspaper, etc. The reason is that the lime compounds in concrete will leach away the compounds used to prevent the tire from UV and cracking. If you have had a vehicle parked on concrete for long periods of time, you will see the black spots where your tires sat. That's the leaching process going on.

Jack

Jack does this hold true for a patio slab??

**jcanavera** · 10-31-2005, 12:57 PM

Well if it's like my patio slab, it's concrete. I learned this at a tire seminar that I went to at a local SOB dealer.

Jack

rseagle · 10-31-2005, 02:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike Lewis

Just a thought ---a you sure you have the water heater bypassed correctly? Is it possable you could be filling the heater ?
Pieman

I went out to double-check. It's properly configured to isolate the water heater. No anti-freeze filling up there.

How can I check to see if the check valve is faulty? Other than what I've already done.

05ModPod · 10-31-2005, 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcanavera

Well if it's like my patio slab, it's concrete. I learned this at a tire seminar that I went to at a local SOB dealer.

Jack

Oh silly me what was I thinking - hmmm smooth as opposed to rough - but as you say concrete is concrete.

Guess I will pull her up and then back over some wood.

SilverToy · 11-02-2005, 01:00 AM

Hi all-

Since this is my first experience with the Winterizing effort and routine, I have to say that is was actaully kinda fun. Got to play with hoses, compressors, low valves ( 3 actually!) and found it all to be fun.

Now of course, the weather was immaculate here in ALBQ so it adds a bit of pep in to your step, but all in all it went really well. No fittings broke, everything worked. I am out 3 Gallons of the RVfreeZe, but hey.

Now if I have busted lines in the Spring I am going to be pissed!!!!!!!

But today was fun and easy. I recommend that everyone try it.

My 2 cents!

Ciao

Axel

Hippo · 12-25-2005, 07:36 PM

For winter I drain the tanks and blow the water lines out with compressed air. I pour RV antifreeaze in the drains and the waste tanks. Keep a electric oil radiator heater going all winter. It keeps the trailer above freezing. The trailer is parked under cover. I keep the battery charged and check the trailer often. Each year I have done this so it is ready to go next season.

hookedonclassic · 02-02-2006, 09:21 PM

Question: My RV is in winter storage with batteries pulled out for the winter. Will the interior lights work if I either hook up to my tow vehicle power plug or if I plug in the 110 power cord without the batteries in? Will I see sparks fly?

rseagle · 02-03-2006, 02:38 AM

Hookedonclassic,

Your 34' Classic has a converter/charger. It will convert ac to dc without the battery hooked up. You should be able to operate you dc items plugged into shore power. It should also work with dc applied from your truck.

hookedonclassic · 02-03-2006, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rseagle

Hookedonclassic,

Your 34' Classic has a converter/charger. It will convert ac to dc without the battery hooked up. You should be able to operate you dc items plugged into shore power. It should also work with dc applied from your truck.

Thanks for the reply. How about the 1992 29'. Will that be the same?

**jcanavera** · 02-03-2006, 07:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rseagle

Hookedonclassic,

Your 34' Classic has a converter/charger. It will convert ac to dc without the battery hooked up. You should be able to operate you dc items plugged into shore power. It should also work with dc applied from your truck.

At one time Airstream recommended that you not plug into 110 without the batteries present. From what I understand, the reason was that without the battery(ies) to provide a load on the converter, the DC output would be higher than normal which could potentially cause an issue with 12 volt powered items in the trailer.

Unfortunately I don't know if this warning applied to modern trailers or just older ones so use caution.

Jack