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Old 11-28-2004, 01:08 PM   #101
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Georgia, there is usually another drain plug in the base of the tank, covered by a small aluminium removable hatch. After removing about 8 self-tappers, a hexagon wrench will remove the drain plug. However, this is no easier than the plastic tap you mentioned, although it does drain more water. The easy solution is to drain the tank by running the electric pump until the water flow stops. Then chuck in a tablespoon full of baking soda through the filler opening to keep the water fresh. You might want to drain the tank fully every few years, and pass a little iodine or chlorine to kill any bugs. A few gallons of water left in the tank will have plenty of room to expand if it freezes. Nick.
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Old 11-28-2004, 04:54 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxandgeorgia
Impossible! I haven't successfully opened this valve yet, even after laying down flat, hugging the wheel, and twisting my arm back around and up to reach the TINY handle. Someone please explain to me how this is supposed to be opened. Can a larger, more functionable (??)handle replace this miniscule one?
Georgia, I'm assuming you are dealing with the fresh water tank drain. It is a bear to open since if you are like me, you may only use it infrequently. One of the ways I keep it flexible is with silicone spray. Getting it to move initially is difficult. I sometime wedge a screwdriver between the stop and the handle. Once you can get it away from the stop, you can get your fingers around it. The silicone needs to be done a few times a year. The key is just moving it from the closed and open position several times a year.

I guess you also saw your two low water drains which are nearby. I sometimes need to use a plyers to get those moving also.

Jack
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Old 04-06-2005, 05:11 PM   #103
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I am trying to get a message posted. Where do you go? I just bought my International AS and need a little advice on the septic tank maintence since I do not plan on using it, I also have some condensation inside one of my back tail lights. I would also like to name my new trailer and put a decal on it. I am also curious if I got a good deal, and I'm sure one of ya'll would know. Thanks, Xtina
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Old 04-06-2005, 05:28 PM   #104
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Xtina,

What I do is go to the "forums" tab at the top, find the appropriate category, go to that section and you will find a 'new thread' button. Good luck, and welcome!
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Old 04-06-2005, 08:35 PM   #105
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Question Did you get a good deal?

I'm not prejudiced or anything like that, but ----if you bought an A/S--- I think you got a good deal, but then sometimes my thinking just goes in one direction Welcome to the group. You'll find lots of help & friends here
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Old 10-25-2005, 08:52 AM   #106
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Winter in Albuquerque

I have just bought a house in Albuquerque. My Safari is on order in Texas and I will bring it back to the new house in the beginning of the year. I have a space to park it on the property but wonder how best to keep it from being damaged over the winter. I really don't want to winterize it and can run power to it from the house. Someone who knows how severe the winter can get there can best tell me what I need to do but any advise would be welcome.
(I will build a heated storage area in the spring).
Thanks in advance.
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Old 10-25-2005, 07:13 PM   #107
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Well to be honest you need to run the furnace to keep the areas that have water protected. Your Airstream is not a 4 season trailer so you will potentially need a significant amount of propane, probably an auxilary 100 gallon tank which will minimize the need for fillups. I'm assuming you aren't going to drain your water heater either so you will need to keep that turned on.

Based on the properities of water, damage based on freezing will occur once the water temps drop below 32 degrees. The severity of the weather will dictate how much fuel you will use to keep water temps above 32 degrees.

My advice is if you aren't going to use it, winterize it. Since you are buying new and assuming the dealer is doing a normal test of all systems which would include putting water in the lines, have him winterize it. My dealer had my trailer ready to live in overnight when I picked it up after Thanksgiving. After we tested all systems together, he blew out the lines and pumped in the RV antifreeze at no additional charge. Your dealer should do the same for you.

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Old 10-25-2005, 11:55 PM   #108
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Thanks for the advise. We would like to do some camping on our way from Ft. Worth to Albuquerque to get familiar with things away for the dealer (at least one over night stay there). I plan on a slow go.

Does anyone know the dealer in Albuquerque? I think it would be good to go there for the first winterize.

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Old 10-26-2005, 10:34 AM   #109
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A newbie here. First post. Does anyone have any experience with re-plumbing an Airstream using PEX? PEX is a cross-linked polyethylene system that routes all the water through a manifold, then distributes water to each outlet independently. I.E. each fixture has its own line. PEX-based systems are becoming more common within the housing industry. PEX can expand more than the 9% change in volume that accompanies freezing water without damage.
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Old 10-26-2005, 03:54 PM   #110
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Water Tank Suction Line

I'm in the process of winterizing my 22' CCD. 2nd year of doing it. Pretty much routine: isolated and drained the water heater, blew out water lines with compressed air, put 3 1/2 gallons of RV anti-freeze in the water holding tank to pump though the lines and water pump (same quantity as used last year). However, I'm not getting suction. I've jacked the trailer up and down to try to make suction, but it's not working.
Does anyone know where the suction line is located in the tank, usually? Forward, Center, Rear?
Any ideas what to try next, besides more anti-freeze in the tank? I'll try that tomorrow. The water pump worked the last time we used it, a month ago.
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Old 10-26-2005, 04:57 PM   #111
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I remember on my old SOB took 4 gallons to make sure I got suction and enough quantity to get through all the lines. Do you have access to your pump? If you do you can buy the Camco winterizing kit which includes the valve and the hose. The valve won't fit on my Classic without relocating the pump, due to the wheel well. At this time I use the hose provided in the kit, which screws onto the pump intake side. The other side of the hose goes into the anti-freeze bottle.

The other possiblity is that the pump lost its prime and can't generate enough suction to pull the anti-freeze up from the tank.

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Old 10-26-2005, 05:08 PM   #112
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The water pump in the CCD is real difficult to access. It's behind the back panel of the bottom drawer under the kitchen sink. There are about 8 screws to remove and you need to use a knive to wedge the panel away from the back supports. A real pain. The water pump doesn't have a separate antifreeze supply line and valves. I had that on my Jayco. It made winterizing real easy. I guess I'll try another gallon or two of anti-freeze. If that doesn't work and the pump fails to self prime, then I guess it's back to the dealer for another warranty service.
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Old 10-26-2005, 06:00 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rseagle
The water pump in the CCD is real difficult to access.
I can appreciate that. My Safari was the same way in that I would have had to cut molding trim to allow a panel to be removed. I figured it would not look to good so I used the fresh water tank route like you do today.

I had to get a warranty pump replacement early this year on the Classic. The pump had a faulty check valve which was allowing the fresh water tank to slowly fill whenever I was connected to city water. Last fall I had a heck of a time even getting the pump to pull the anti-freeze from the bottle when the line contained nothing but air. I ended up pouring some anti-freeze into the tubing then shoving the tube into the bottle. I figured it was a lost prime situation.

The new pump had no problems this year. I'm just thinking out loud here but I wonder if your pump is sucking from the city side? Is your city inlet cap closed and tight at this point? If it's not, try to close it and see if the pump can pull the anti-freeze now. It's a long shot guess but it if it works it saves a purchase and then adds a question as to whether you do have a pump issue.

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Old 10-26-2005, 07:15 PM   #114
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I installed the Camco bypass valve Sunday...

... per john hd's thread (http://www.airforums.com/forums/winterizing/7222-getting-ready-the-freeze.html). My 25' Safari FB has all wet appliances fairly close together. I blew everything out first. Then it took only 2 gallons to fill all tubing, faucet controller valves & my traps. The water heater was drained of course. This bypass method is so much easier than trying to dilute and flush antifreeze out of the main water tank in the spring.

John's photo of the water pump sitting all by itself has got to be doctored! There just isn't that much room in the nether parts!! On my Safari FB SE this is located under the fridge and a wardrobe. Two heat ducts are moved away to get access. The white ringed hose is the water fill tube routing toward the freshwater tank below the floor to the left.

Photo key:
1. The brass Camco 3-way bypass valve; the alternate inlet opening is facing away. You thread the Camco hose on that other opening, throw the lever crossways, stick the Camco hose in your gallons of RV antifreeze and turn on your pump. The grey body to the right of the brass valve is an adapter included in the Camco kit. Like john hd also did, you see some teflon tape in spite of the o-rings in the connectors. The water pump is black and just going out of picture on the right. Instructions with the Camco kit are quite complete -- but the job is nearly as simple as attaching a garden hose to a faucet. I bought the Camco kit at our local fleet store; it's inexpensive -- currently $13.49 on sale at CW.
2. Screwholes for the original location of my water pump. The valve and adapter are almost 3" long, thus the water pump had to be moved. I had to get a little creative with repositioning the 'pulsation dampener' hose loop coming off the pump outlet.
3. The strainer is just to the left of mid-picture. I would probably have liked the bypass valve in area "3" to protect the strainer but don't have the PEX tools and would have needed more parts than in the Camco kit. I used my air compressor to blow from right to left (back into the tank) to prove the strainer was empty before installing the valve kit.
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Old 10-26-2005, 07:33 PM   #115
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Getting ready for the freeze.pdf

I created a .pdf document out of John HD's thread (John gave permission). If anyone wants a copy, just pm me with an e-mail address. Or if anyone cares to host it, feel free.

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Old 10-26-2005, 07:56 PM   #116
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Quote:
John's photo of the water pump sitting all by itself has got to be doctored!
i think not!

that is one of the great features of the classic model from the early '90's.. the factory provided ample room for the water pump under a false floor in the wardrobe.

glad to see you guys making use of an old post!

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Old 10-26-2005, 08:06 PM   #117
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hi iver and others

congrats on the new unit....if it's coming to the dealer in late fall or winter, it will come from the factory already winterized....that means lines blown, gycol in the lines, tank empty, gycol in the traps and filters out....

so the dealer will need to 'unwinterize' it for you at delivery...unless you tell them other wise....

if you're only going to use it 1-2 days on the way home and then not again till spring, it might be better to just leave it winterized from the factory. you could still use it on the way home...except for water, toilet and tanks...

if you really want to use the water lines for just a few days and then rewinterize it, i'd suggest asking the dealer to wait until you arrive, accept delivery and do the run through of all systems. then you could be there when the tech unwinterizes it and watch. now you'd have first hand experience with the lines, valves, pump, tanks, filters, and so on....

since winterizing the newer trailers is so easy, having seen the tech undo it, you will now feel confident enough to do it yourself....it takes very little time.

just a suggestion.

cheers
2air'


someone mentioned pex...well that's what the new units have and while it does expand and tolerate freezing water somewhat, the factory still suggests winterization. the valves, pump, filter, faucets, joints and so on can still be damaged from freezing....and so can the pex....it's just more tolerant than pervious pipe materials.
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Old 10-27-2005, 03:41 AM   #118
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Jack,

The city water cap was tight, as I had just removed the compressed air nipple. I'll try another gallon of anti-freeze. If that doesn't work, I'd expect it to be a problem with the pump.
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Old 10-27-2005, 08:53 AM   #119
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Thanks much for the help. Talked with the dealer and he is going to install the valve ($50) necessary to make the process of winterizing very easy after they show me what to do upon arrival in Albuquerque. As I said, we are moving from Southern California so will need a break ... packing up, selling a house, moving, buying a new house and business in Albuquerque. This trip to get the trailer will be a time to rest and concentrate on the new streamer. For those who don't know, I am told that my 28' Safari SE was through the assembly line right behind the one they built for the New Orleans RV show. We badly wanted the pano windows on both ends so we got the second trailer, of this size, made with those. Our unit will either have all the flaws later units will have corrected or will be perfect because they have paid attention, finally, to fit and finish. I will be sure to report in either case.

Regards to everyone. This site has been wonderful in getting me as ready as I can be for this adventure into the cult of Airstream.

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Old 10-29-2005, 02:27 AM   #120
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Full Pano windows - Really!!?

Hey welcome to the ALBQ area !!!! Firstly!

Now secondly, let me ask you about the full panos that you had installed - F+R Right?? Sorry to sound so odd but I have F+R Panos on my unit and have seen it on no other unit I can recall - anywhere!

Would really love to see another unit with the "Full Panorama" view that I have on SilverToy. Since this is my first unit I was unaware of the rarity of this feature. Seemingly lots of things constrain and disqualify a unit from having it even as an option, then people don't want to spend the $ to get it. Their loss, MY gain!

Anyway, nice to see reference to the Pano windows. Love em like I do!

Cioa

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