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Old 11-01-2002, 09:03 PM   #57
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From the Camco Manufacturing Website. This product is the only one carried by Camping World. Around 2 bucks a jug.

Freeze Ban -50
#30767 (Gallon)
Non-toxic Freeze Ban -50 Antifreeze for potable water systems. This economy blend protects to -50 degrees F (below zero) (-46 degrees C). Use full strength--no mixing required. All ingredients are listed in the U.S. Federal Register (GRAS). Contains Propylene Glycol. Freeze Ban -50 can be used full strength as winterization medium for winterization of boat engines. USA
Safe - Odorless - Tasteless



WINTER BAN -100
#30787 (Gallon)
Supreme blend non-toxic Winter Ban -100 RV Antifreeze for potable water systems. Protects to -100 degrees F (below zero) (-73 degrees C). Use full strength--no mixing required. (May be diluted with water according to the freeze protection chart provided on the bottle label) All ingredients are listed in the U.S. Federal Register (GRAS). Contains Propylene glycol. USA
Safe - Odorless - Tasteless


-BobbyWright
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Old 11-01-2002, 09:08 PM   #58
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winterizing

Hello DMC
After you blow out the moisture from the lines, the use of RV antifreeze is cheap insurance against frozen water lines. If you can by-pass your water heater, it would only take a couple of gallons. I buy the pink stuff at the local Wally Mart for about $3.00 per gallon.
Unless you are absolutely certain that there are no low places in the water line lines, and that you have removed all of the water, I think that the RV anti-freeze is the the way to go.
As I said, cheap insurance against damage in those wonderful Chicago area winters.
Good Luck
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Old 11-01-2002, 09:15 PM   #59
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I am also making this a Sticky Thread for now in the General Repair Forum instead of the Plumbing Forum as it is a very timely and important topic. Perhaps this will keep others from starting the topic over and over through the next couple of weeks.

Regards;
-BobbyWright
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Old 11-02-2002, 08:53 AM   #60
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vermin

I hear one may use mothballs ( just how do you collect them? ) for keeping mice etc at bay as part of winterizing. Where are the most effective sites for spreading them?I have a patient who says all you have to do is spread them under your TT and you're all set.Does this make any sense to you all wise gurus of Airstreamdom?
Brouck
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Old 11-02-2002, 09:00 AM   #61
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That might work. I used to have a mail carrier that would put them in the boxes. She claimed it kept the spiders, wasps, etc. out. I was afraid to ask how she collected them, it was a commercial building and she threatened to go postal a couple of times if we didn't "get it in gear and move the #$&*% box."

John
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Old 11-02-2002, 09:41 AM   #62
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There are hand nets available at www.gemplers.com . Go to the IPM area. After collecting about 50 or so, I use a microscope, (also available from Gemplers) and tweezers to pull them off.

Seriously, I have been keeping a box in the back bumper storage area. This area leads to the rest of the innards of the trailer. I also use mice sticky traps. So far no catches since the balls went in the bumper.
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Old 11-02-2002, 12:05 PM   #63
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Gosh, I hadn't even thought about a mouse invasion in the AS this winter ( our first as AS owners) and have been just trying to think of all the things to do to it. We're in Maine and we already have snow on the ground and the cold air seems permanent this time. We shut off the water last week and opened the valves to drain the lines. Got the anti freeze and am ready to put it in the lines. Am glad I ran across this thread but sorry to say have already discussed the subject elsewhere in the forum - I guess it is impossible not to get some repetition in subjects discussed.

Anyway, I enjoyed your discussion and thanks for the mothball tip.

Overlander71
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Old 11-02-2002, 03:50 PM   #64
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honest to God martha Stewart

I just returned from immersing my AS in the wonderful smell of moth balls.I purchased them at KMart ( I couldn't get a single moth to hold still while I relieved him of his manhood ) and I was blown away by the fact that I was forced to purchase designer mothballs by Martha Stewart. She must have more patience than I!
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Old 11-06-2002, 02:26 PM   #65
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Accumulator

Hello, all:

I've been reading winterizing with great interest as this my first winterizing. Martha Stuart mothballs and all. When I bought the 84 Excella last Feb it had been winterized and had compressed air in the water lines. It looks to me like something called an "accumulator" has been installed in the water line next to the water pump (under triple-door closet). This accumulator has a metal valve stem on it for an air hose. Is this some sort of device that is used in putting air in lines w/air compressor?

Also, what's an easy way to tell if I have a water heater bypass installed? - don't see any special lines from the front of the water heater.

Thanks,

Neal in southern Indiana
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Old 11-06-2002, 04:42 PM   #66
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the accumulator is a device that has an air bladder inside of a chamber. this allows the water pump to have something to fill so it doesn't have to run all of the time.

it also evens out the water pressure so you don't get pulses at the faucet when the pump is running.

the schrader valve is for filling the air bladder inside of the chamber. it has no direct connection to the water supply.

adding air at the valve will just inflate the bladder more.

any one who has a private well for their home has one too, just a whole lot bigger.

if you want to use compressed air to purge your water system you need to find an adaptor for your city water inlet. (or make one) then you can use 40 to 60 psi to blow all of the water out of the lines.

as for the water heater bypass, look for the shut off valves near the heater, there should be a third valve that would allow water to go from the supply line to the hot water outlet line(the one that goes to the faucets). then close the two nearest the heater, and open the third.

you will know if you have it right if you pull the drain out of the heater and still have water at the hot taps when you run the pump.

if it is wrong, water will just run out of the heater drain when you turn the pump on.

john

p.s. davidz71 posted some pic's of his set up a while back
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Old 11-06-2002, 04:47 PM   #67
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oh yeah

i missed the most important part of your question,

the valves are NOT on the outside of the heater, look for them on the inside. (under bathroom cabinets on mine)

the valves should be very near the heater.

john
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Old 11-06-2002, 04:49 PM   #68
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John,
With all that you have told us so far, the question is now how do you purge that tank of water for winterizing. I'm assuming city water doesn't enter it since its inline with the water pump?

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Old 11-06-2002, 05:19 PM   #69
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good question

i've always assumed that the compressed air got to it. since the accumulator is after the tee between the pump and city water. (the water plumbing is all common after the pump check valve)

if i'm wrong then the 6 or 7 gallons of anti freeze that goes through the pump would take care of that.

my trailer has survived many wisconsin winters so i think the compressed air must purge it. it gets filled with anti freeze anyway just to be safe.

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Old 11-06-2002, 05:26 PM   #70
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as a matter of fact

this might answer your question, when i am filling the system with anti freeze the pump turns on and off.

this means the accumulator is being filled with anti freeze.

weather it has been purged before that depends on where it is in the system.

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