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Old 10-15-2002, 07:31 PM   #41
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Chuck,
I forgot to mention that I can see where the probes screw into the tank by opening the rear access door to my trailer. A wire attaches to each probe and the 4 probes are located at different heights in the tank. Probes can be removed in my year trailer, scraped clean and sealant placed on threads when replacing them to prevent leaks.
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Old 10-16-2002, 08:24 AM   #42
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Craig,
your system is a bit different than mine. I don't really have "gauges" on my control panel; they're more like "idiot lights" that are stacked one on top of the next. I think there are 4 for the fresh tank. they are marked "0/0", "2/4", "3/4", and "4/4", or something like that. The lights illuminate progressively, so if the tank is 3/4 full, the bottom 3 lights come on...(but only when the rocker-switch is depressed and held down). You can even see the top most light glow dim to bright if there's any movement in the trailer, as the water sloshes around in the tank. The black tank only has 3 lights; I think its "0", "1/2", and "4/4".

There are no access panels anywhere on my trailer, so getting at either tank would be a *itch.
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Old 10-16-2002, 01:10 PM   #43
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I know the type system you are talking about now. I remember an uncle of a friend of mine who had a 25' or 26' Airstream and I went in and looked around. It was around 1987 and while the outside of the Airstreams had intrigued me, it was at this point I told myself I "had to have one of these." His control panel had the red indicator lights but I can't remember if they were horizontal or vertical on the panel. Maybe someone on the forum has a service manual that will tell you how to access the probes to clean them up. I remember reading on the www.rvchem.com site that Crestline has a product that contains enzymes that eat away at the bad stuff in the grey/blackwater tanks and that includes the gunk that covers the probes.
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Old 10-16-2002, 01:24 PM   #44
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but wouldn't ya know....there is NO grey tank in this trailer, and the black tank indicators work! {sigh}.
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Old 10-16-2002, 01:55 PM   #45
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Well, would you rather have a functional tank gauge for the blackwater or the freshwater if you had the choice? Hmmmm, would like to know how much freshwater I have to drink or take a shower OR the blackwater tank is about full so I need to go dump it. Tough question. You'd rather have both of them I'm sure.

What have you done when cleaning out your freshwater tank? One person suggested cubed ice in addition to chlorox bleach and water solution then drive around to let the ice scrub away at the tank. After the ice melts, just pump it out. It was the same solution for a stubborn grey and blackwater tank but you didn't have to use the chlorox, just any tank cleaner. These are just some of the ideas I have read on the forum in the past that you might think about if you think the probes are just dirty.
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Old 10-16-2002, 02:08 PM   #46
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Craig, I would rather have my fresh water tank guage working. I know that if I still have fresh water my grey and black tanks can't be full even if the guage indicates they are.
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Old 10-16-2002, 02:40 PM   #47
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Well, I don't know that the probes are "dirty"; I don't know what the problem is. LOL! really, its not a big deal. I did rinse it with a mild bleach solution before using it, because I knew that it sat idle for many years. POs didn't use it at all...only went to full-hookup sites. I just put in 1/4 or1/2 cup of bleach, filled up the tank, ran it through the lines, and emptied it out, then rinsed it w/ "clean" water. we use bottled water for cooking/drinking anyhow.

I'd rather the fresh tank indicators work than the black tank, if I had a choice, because I can "see" into the black tank by opening the toilet dump-valve. just shine a flashlight down there, and you can get a pretty good idea of how full it is. can't do that w/ the fresh-tank.
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Old 10-16-2002, 06:29 PM   #48
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Good points to consider. We all use our units differently. Several weeks ago I had access to water but no electricity. When I pull out tomorrow I will have access to neither. Instead of filling the freshwater tank, I will carry a 5 gallon plastic can of water and a 1.5 gal. can with spicket which sits on the counter pointing into the sink. That gives me cooking and PTA bathing capability for a few days. I also keep a gallon of water frozen in the fridge and let it melt for any additional water needs. I'll carry a 12 pkg. of Coke and some Gatorade to quinch my thirst. At some point in time I will start to use the freshwater tank but haven't had the need to yet. It would be another story if my wife and kids were along. I would definately need to figure freshwater vs. grey and black water values.
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Old 11-01-2002, 12:25 PM   #49
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Winterizing !

Now that I feel my seasonal affective disorder kicking in, I thought is would be a good time to fire up the seasonal discussion about winterizing.

The first of many q's and a's im sure:

Why a cup of Kerosene down my drains?

Some cheaper form of anti-freeze?

DMC
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Old 11-01-2002, 01:26 PM   #50
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Kerosene? How about RV antifreeze if you want to keep the traps from freezing. Anything you put down your drain will eventually end up in a dump station and the people who own the dump station will not like that.

John
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Old 11-01-2002, 02:04 PM   #51
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Kerosene Really!

I dont make this stuff up! Page 92 of my manual says Kerosene,
and DO NOT USE anti-freeze. I don't know which is worse...

Kerosene ... Flamable .... BOOM!

Anti-freeze ... Completely TOXIC ... especially to small animals.

See attached:

All insights, experience, and help ... requested and appreciated!

DMC
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Old 11-01-2002, 02:26 PM   #52
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Should have been more specific, RV antifreeze, the pink stuff you use to winterize waterlines, etc. The manual was probably published before this even existed and that was the common thing to use at the time. Kerosene won't really boom like gas, but it sure would smell in the spring.

John
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Old 11-01-2002, 07:44 PM   #53
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Blow the water out?

I think this year I will stick the blowing end of my shop vac into the drains and BLOW the water out of the trap ... If its good enough for thre rest of the lines ... why not the traps??

DMC
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Old 11-01-2002, 08:07 PM   #54
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If they are empty they can't freeze and it doesn't matter how you do that.

John
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Old 11-01-2002, 08:32 PM   #55
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RV antifreeze is non toxic and you can get a type with no odor as well.It worked well for me in Georgia, wher the temps were in the 20's last year, but of course that is stilll mild for many of your home areas.
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Old 11-01-2002, 08:41 PM   #56
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Temps in the 20's

Our temps in Chicagoland run in the 20's for most of our seemingly 6 month long winter also ......... - 20's !! (Minus twenty)

BURRRRR! (It's a wet cold) (Not a dry heat)

DMC
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Old 11-01-2002, 09:03 PM   #57
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From the Camco Manufacturing Website. This product is the only one carried by Camping World. Around 2 bucks a jug.

Freeze Ban -50
#30767 (Gallon)
Non-toxic Freeze Ban -50 Antifreeze for potable water systems. This economy blend protects to -50 degrees F (below zero) (-46 degrees C). Use full strength--no mixing required. All ingredients are listed in the U.S. Federal Register (GRAS). Contains Propylene Glycol. Freeze Ban -50 can be used full strength as winterization medium for winterization of boat engines. USA
Safe - Odorless - Tasteless



WINTER BAN -100
#30787 (Gallon)
Supreme blend non-toxic Winter Ban -100 RV Antifreeze for potable water systems. Protects to -100 degrees F (below zero) (-73 degrees C). Use full strength--no mixing required. (May be diluted with water according to the freeze protection chart provided on the bottle label) All ingredients are listed in the U.S. Federal Register (GRAS). Contains Propylene glycol. USA
Safe - Odorless - Tasteless


-BobbyWright
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Old 11-01-2002, 09:08 PM   #58
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winterizing

Hello DMC
After you blow out the moisture from the lines, the use of RV antifreeze is cheap insurance against frozen water lines. If you can by-pass your water heater, it would only take a couple of gallons. I buy the pink stuff at the local Wally Mart for about $3.00 per gallon.
Unless you are absolutely certain that there are no low places in the water line lines, and that you have removed all of the water, I think that the RV anti-freeze is the the way to go.
As I said, cheap insurance against damage in those wonderful Chicago area winters.
Good Luck
Cliff
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Old 11-01-2002, 09:15 PM   #59
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I am also making this a Sticky Thread for now in the General Repair Forum instead of the Plumbing Forum as it is a very timely and important topic. Perhaps this will keep others from starting the topic over and over through the next couple of weeks.

Regards;
-BobbyWright
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Old 11-02-2002, 08:53 AM   #60
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vermin

I hear one may use mothballs ( just how do you collect them? ) for keeping mice etc at bay as part of winterizing. Where are the most effective sites for spreading them?I have a patient who says all you have to do is spread them under your TT and you're all set.Does this make any sense to you all wise gurus of Airstreamdom?
Brouck
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