Winterizing Tips - Page 2

Charles Q Treichel · 09-15-2002, 09:22 PM

After suffering some broken copper lines, I replaced mine with semirigid red plastic tubing and CPI plastic fitting. I have a feeling that at least the tubing would sustain freezing. Does anybody know?
Is is possible to purge the system of water by blowing it all back through the drain valve of the water heater starting perhaps at the pump?

Antique Pedaler · 09-15-2002, 09:31 PM

Can't say much for other's winterizing methods, but a steady stream of compressed air has worked for me on our '99 Safari 27. Called the factory first and they said blowing out the system with compressed air was all I needed to do. So I've done that the past two winters with no problems. I do drop a cup of antifreeze down the drainsl, however.

JW84345 · 09-15-2002, 09:43 PM

Howdy,

I do not know what the red tubing is, but I would not rely on any type of tubing to resist cracking or other damage due to freezing. It is best to winterize and doing so with air pressure is fine. It is important to get all the water out. I use about a gallon of antifreeze through the pump and down the traps. I then blow out the lines, taking time to make sure no water comes out of any of the faucetts. I leave valves and faucetts open while in storage. I have no problems through Michigan winters for the past 7 years. See the thread "Forums > Airstream Restoration, Repair & Parts Forums > General Repair Forum > Air pressure for winterizing" and search on winterize to get more info.

Jim

**jcanavera** · 09-15-2002, 10:26 PM

My local dealer had a seminar on winterizing at a rally last year. They state that blowing out the lines is sufficient....provided that you do it with enough air pressure to really blow it out. They advised that 12 volt compressors will not generate enough force to really blow out the system. In this case they advised following up with RV antifreeze.

I've done the blow out with my 12 volt compressor followed by pumping antifreeze through the system. It works for me and I've had no frozen lines in over 25 years of winterizing. One thing to remember is to take care of the drain traps. I normally reverse my shop vac to blow out the traps. Then I add some antifreeze to boot.

Jack

Antique Pedaler · 09-16-2002, 07:13 PM

Oh yes......all the lines are plastic.

davidz71 · 09-17-2002, 10:51 AM

Jack,
I normally just poor antifreeze in the traps but I never thought about blowing the traps out with the shop vac. Great idea. Thanks.

**jcanavera** · 09-17-2002, 11:11 AM

David,
Antifreeze in the traps should displace the water, but the question always in my mind was it enough. To play it safe I just blew out the traps. Had to wrap someting around the hose to seal it off in the shower and kitchen sink drains since their diameters are larger than my shop vac hose.

Jack

davidz71 · 09-17-2002, 02:12 PM

My thought exactly, did I get the right amount? I'd rather overdo than not.

niftypkg · 09-20-2002, 07:16 PM

Just did my first winterizing!! First, tilted the trailer to drain it. Second, pressurized the system with my 12v inflator [truck sized]. Not much additional water came out through the faucets or toilet. The inflator worked fine but I didn't allow it to exceed 30psi. Then added anti freeze using the pump and opened all faucets and drains one at a time. I will next blow out the drains and fill both holding tanks with anti freeze. { just kidding}Most info came from these threads. Question : although I blue out the lines, what about the line from the hose to the pressure reg. and from the reg. to the cold water line. That is from the HP city water connection. I opened that line and nothing came out-- blocked by the pressure reg. Be nice. Tom

davidz71 · 09-20-2002, 09:49 PM

I have a water hose on a reel next to my power cord reel. I blew this line out, poured antifreeze into the outstretched hose and pushed it through with more air pressure. I then filled the hose again, capped it off with a male plug with tiny holes drilled in it and let the reel roll the hose up. Yes, some of the antifreeze spilled out but that was OK.

James Schmidt · 09-21-2002, 05:01 AM

All these comments for blowing out the lines and traps are good. Just don't forget to pay attention to the holding tanks and drain fittings on the outlet side of these tanks. They will freeze and break if any water is left in them and they freeze. I know from first hand experience! I have found that a good way to take care of them is to pour some antifreeze down into both tanks. Use enough so that some of it will run out the drain valves when they are opened.

JW84345 · 09-21-2002, 08:46 AM

Quote:

I have a water hose on a reel next to my power cord reel

My motorhome had a hose on the reel. I put the air fitting on the end of the hose and blew the water out of everything. It took longer than my trailer and I was surprised how much water came out. I had to drive back over to the dump. I also agree, antifreeze down the drains and a little down the toilet. I also leave antifreeze in the toilet bowl. I read somewhere it keeps the seal from drying out.

Quote:

what about the line from the hose to the pressure reg. and from the reg. to the cold water line. That is from the HP city water connection

The antifreeze I run through the pump to protects the inlet hose from the tank through the pump, accumulator tank and the check valve. I put the air fitting on the city water hook-up, so all fresh water lines are cleared. I used a tire inflator one year and it took for ever, I could get the pressure out of it, but not the volume (CFM). Since then I use a 2 horse power compressor. I think I set the max pressure at 40psi (thoughts anyone: too high for copper tubing?). Last year was great, I did everything on both rigs at the storage yard using the generator on the motorhome to power the compressor. With the coach sold, I'll drag the trailer home, but the good news is I'll only have to winterize one rig.

Jim

davidz71 · 09-23-2002, 06:11 PM

I also have the hose reel on my Excella 500 and this was the first and only fitting location I had to replace after towing it from AZ to TN first week in May '01. The white waterhose connects to a fitting on the reel and water goes to a center hub and out through a fitting at the top on the outside of the reel facing the front of the trailer. The PEX tubing with 90 degree fitting heads down at around a 30 degree angle then takes a 90 degree turn toward the rear of the trailer. Since this fitting is at the lowest point, water was trapped here and it split the fitting. The PEX hose then goes 12" approximately, makes another 90 degree turn toward the outside skin then a 90 degree toward the back of the trailer toward the water heater. After replacing the fitting with a Quest fitting, I eliminated the next 90 degree fitting by gradually bending the new white tubing. It worked fine.

All of these fittings were under the wardrobe closet on the road side so I had to drill out a bunch of rivets. The plastic wheelwell had been cut before so this was not the first time it was done. It is not something I want to do again so I added insulation to this water line.

davidz71 · 09-23-2002, 06:22 PM

83Excella (John),
I don't know how I missed your post last month but I have 2 city water connections. One on the hose reel and one toward the end of the trailer. Yes, the electrical reel is right next to the waterhose reel and it is a standard 30 amp cord that is appx. 25' in length. It sure is handy in that I do not have to fold it up and put it in the back bumper. All I do is pull it out a little further and let the reel pull it back in.