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Old 10-31-2005, 08:45 AM   #127
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We pull all food items out and liquids. I give the insides of the trailer a good cleaning. We leave in towels, dish cloths, sheets and blankets. I'll open the doors of the refrigerator and freezer to prevent any moisture buildup. If they don't stay open, I'll use a small dowel rod or curtain rod to keep the doors cracked open. I make sure the gas is turned off, activate the master disconnect and remove the batteries for storage at home. I'll cover the tires and make sure the trailer is level. That prevents any water from sneaking into areas where it could freeze and expand potentially causing future leaks. I close the shades curtains and skylights to keep light out of the inside of the trailer.

One last thought if you are storing your trailer on a concrete pad, try to place something under the tires, cardboard, newspaper, etc. The reason is that the lime compounds in concrete will leach away the compounds used to prevent the tire from UV and cracking. If you have had a vehicle parked on concrete for long periods of time, you will see the black spots where your tires sat. That's the leaching process going on.

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Old 10-31-2005, 09:49 AM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rseagle
Here's what I know:
I had drained the tank of water before starting the winterizing. I even jacked the front up higher to allow water to flow to the outlet at the rear of the tank. The 4 1/2 gallons of anti-freeze represents almost 1/4 of my tank capacity. The inlet to the suction line is low enoungh for me to almost completely drain the tank of water on camping trips. The trailer is level. The spitting started immediately upon switching the pump on and opening the faucet. I believe that I should have gotten full flow as soon as the anti-freeze reached the pump. It didn't! I did last year with 3 1/2 gallons.

What I speculate: It apprears that the check valve or the pump is the problem.
Just a thought ---a you sure you have the water heater bypassed correctly? Is it possable you could be filling the heater ?
Pieman
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Old 10-31-2005, 10:32 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lewis
Just a thought ---a you sure you have the water heater bypassed correctly? Is it possable you could be filling the heater ?
Pieman
Wow, good thought. If you aren't sure about the positioning of the valves, open up that drain plug on the heater. If you get lots of pink stuff pouring out, you've got your answer!

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Old 10-31-2005, 11:03 AM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
One last thought if you are storing your trailer on a concrete pad, try to place something under the tires, cardboard, newspaper, etc. The reason is that the lime compounds in concrete will leach away the compounds used to prevent the tire from UV and cracking. If you have had a vehicle parked on concrete for long periods of time, you will see the black spots where your tires sat. That's the leaching process going on.

Jack
Jack does this hold true for a patio slab??
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Old 10-31-2005, 01:57 PM   #131
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Well if it's like my patio slab, it's concrete. I learned this at a tire seminar that I went to at a local SOB dealer.

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Old 10-31-2005, 03:14 PM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Lewis
Just a thought ---a you sure you have the water heater bypassed correctly? Is it possable you could be filling the heater ?
Pieman
I went out to double-check. It's properly configured to isolate the water heater. No anti-freeze filling up there.

How can I check to see if the check valve is faulty? Other than what I've already done.
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Old 10-31-2005, 05:39 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
Well if it's like my patio slab, it's concrete. I learned this at a tire seminar that I went to at a local SOB dealer.

Jack
Oh silly me what was I thinking - hmmm smooth as opposed to rough - but as you say concrete is concrete.

Guess I will pull her up and then back over some wood.
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Old 11-02-2005, 02:00 AM   #134
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winterizing, Heater bypassing, etc.... Easy!

Hi all-

Since this is my first experience with the Winterizing effort and routine, I have to say that is was actaully kinda fun. Got to play with hoses, compressors, low valves ( 3 actually!) and found it all to be fun.

Now of course, the weather was immaculate here in ALBQ so it adds a bit of pep in to your step, but all in all it went really well. No fittings broke, everything worked. I am out 3 Gallons of the RVfreeZe, but hey.

Now if I have busted lines in the Spring I am going to be pissed!!!!!!!

But today was fun and easy. I recommend that everyone try it.

My 2 cents!

Ciao

Axel
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Old 12-25-2005, 08:36 PM   #135
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For winter I drain the tanks and blow the water lines out with compressed air. I pour RV antifreeaze in the drains and the waste tanks. Keep a electric oil radiator heater going all winter. It keeps the trailer above freezing. The trailer is parked under cover. I keep the battery charged and check the trailer often. Each year I have done this so it is ready to go next season.
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Old 02-02-2006, 10:21 PM   #136
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Question: My RV is in winter storage with batteries pulled out for the winter. Will the interior lights work if I either hook up to my tow vehicle power plug or if I plug in the 110 power cord without the batteries in? Will I see sparks fly?
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Old 02-03-2006, 03:38 AM   #137
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Hookedonclassic,

Your 34' Classic has a converter/charger. It will convert ac to dc without the battery hooked up. You should be able to operate you dc items plugged into shore power. It should also work with dc applied from your truck.
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Old 02-03-2006, 06:48 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rseagle
Hookedonclassic,

Your 34' Classic has a converter/charger. It will convert ac to dc without the battery hooked up. You should be able to operate you dc items plugged into shore power. It should also work with dc applied from your truck.
Thanks for the reply. How about the 1992 29'. Will that be the same?
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Old 02-03-2006, 08:25 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rseagle
Hookedonclassic,

Your 34' Classic has a converter/charger. It will convert ac to dc without the battery hooked up. You should be able to operate you dc items plugged into shore power. It should also work with dc applied from your truck.
At one time Airstream recommended that you not plug into 110 without the batteries present. From what I understand, the reason was that without the battery(ies) to provide a load on the converter, the DC output would be higher than normal which could potentially cause an issue with 12 volt powered items in the trailer.

Unfortunately I don't know if this warning applied to modern trailers or just older ones so use caution.

Jack
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Old 02-03-2006, 08:44 AM   #140
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Just think

Give it another four short weeks and we will all be un-winterizing our coaches
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