Winterizing On The Road

[OTRA15]

Yes I understand the process of winterizing a trailer. My point, which I did not make clear, is that if you let your compressor reach full pressure, with its valve to the trailer's plumbing open, and you accidentally close all the faucets, low point drains, water heater drain and pressure relief valve, etc..
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you will quickly burst a pipe somewhere in the trailer, as the pipes are only rated for 30-40 PSI +/-.

Experienced users with small compressors like this are likely aware of this risk, but inexperienced newcomers will probably not be aware of this risk IMO. For instance if a phone call comes in during the process, and the owner is distracted by this or something else, these little compressors can do real damage left unattended for even a couple of minutes.

A friend was using one to blow up a spare tire in his garage, heard the phone ring, went inside to take the call, and forgot about the tire inflating in the garage. Ten minutes later when the tire exploded, he remembered what he had been doing!





Fortunately there were no injuries or damage other than the tire.

Thus advice to use an unregulated compressor -- reaching 100 PSI plus -- should be very careful to make the risk clear, again in my opiniion.

That's all . . .

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

My point, which I did not make clear, is that if you let your compressor reach full pressure, with its valve to the trailer's plumbing open, and you accidentally close all the taps ... you will quickly burst a pipe somewhere in the trailer, as the pipes are only rated for 30-40 PSI +/-.

Experienced users with small compressors like this are likely aware of this risk, but inexperienced newcomers will probably not be aware of this risk IMO. ... these little compressors can do real damage left unattended for even a couple of minutes.

Thus advice to use an unregulated compressor -- reaching 100 PSI plus -- should be very careful to make the risk clear, again in my opiniion.

If you reread my post, or the documentation for the 450P, you will see that one has to press the trigger on the air chuck to release air into the water system. It would be impossible, with this compressor, to accidentally pressurize the system.

If you are that concerned you can add an air pressure regulator to the system for about $25.

[SteveSueMac]

(On edit - this was meant to be directed to AdventureAS - and - I neglected to thank OTRA for the caution that with other compressors or a fully closed system, this would be too much...)


I have the 450p as well (and appreciate your IM exchange). Your description of the straw is perfect. I use the 450p to (among other things) blow out my city water hose at the end of a trip so water isn't sitting in it for the next week before my next trip. I have the same fitting that would connect to the city water fitting on the trailer and so long as something's open, I can't see how you could over pressurize the system.

When I use it on the hose, it starts with 100PSI blowing the column of water out the other end of the hose and, because the other end is open, it quickly gets down to 20PSI.

And as you stated, you have to pull the trigger to move air through the compressor. The way you describe your process sounds spot on for this particular compressor. Thanks!

[OTRA15]

Thanks for the clarifications. Seems like the risks have been properly vetted.

Happy Trails . . .

Peter

[AIRHEDS]

Originally Posted by Adventure.AS

You have to realize that when winterizing with air from a compressor like the VIAR 450P you aren't trying to pressurize the water system, but just pushing the water out of an open tap. Think of it as if you were blowing water out of a straw with a puff of your breath.

Close the low point drains and bypass the hot water heater after it has been drained. The compressor is attached to the city water inlet with a Shraeder valve adapter and turned on. The pressure builds up in the compressor hose, not the water system because the air chuck trigger is off. When the compressor line is pressurized the compressor shuts off.

You can winterize alone, going in and out of the trailer to operate the taps, but it is easier if two people are doing the job. The inside person can open each tap in the trailer, one at a time, and then the air is released from the compressor into the system by the outside person using the trigger on the air chuck. This puff of air will push the water out the open tap.

Attachment 271570
Photo shows the air chuck with trigger from VIAR 450P Automatic

Once all of the water is out of the line I let the compressor continue to run with the tap open until only a few fine drops of water mist are coming out. With the tap open there is no way the pressure in the water line is going to get anywhere close to 40 PSI. (One tap that is often overlooked when winterizing is the outside shower.)

It is not necessary, but it would be more convenient if you had a compressor regulated to 40 PSI and then you could do the job quickly by yourself by letting the system pressurize and opening one tap at a time without having to go back and forth outside. However, with the 450P automatic it is an easy and fast job and only takes about 5 minutes to blow out the lines even if working alone.

The only things I want to run a bit of RV polypropylene antifreeze through is drain traps and the 12V water pump because the compressor at the city water inlet will not blow air through the pump. I have a winterizing PEX line, with a valve, plumbed into the line between the pump inlet hose and the fresh water tank. I add about a half cup of antifreeze as the pump is running with a hot water tap open. I avoid putting any antifreeze in the fresh water tank as it is hard to flush it all out in the spring.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Thank you sir! I just ordered a 450P-RV! I had this on my list of things to buy, but I opted to go for it now in lieu of waiting. Thanks again!

[AIRHEDS]

Change that ... 450P - Thanks Airstream.AS! The -RV is for dually wheels and I don't need that! Dohhht

[Cispook]

Adventure.AS

Do you run the compressor off your TV battery vs AS batteries?


2017 27FB FC

[NoResults]

Question on why the Viair compressor and the need for the 450P for winterizing or filling tires etc. It seems way over priced compared to say the 300P for half the price or even Harbor freight for an item that is seldom used.

I may indeed buy one but need some convincing.

Thanks

Dave

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by Cispook

Adventure.AS

Do you run the compressor off your TV battery vs AS batteries?
2017 27FB FC

I use the AS house battery most times.

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by NoResults

Question on why the Viair compressor and the need for the 450P for winterizing or filling tires etc. It seems way over priced compared to say the 300P for half the price or even Harbor freight for an item that is seldom used.

I may indeed buy one but need some convincing.

Thanks
Dave

I would say it isn't overpriced for the quality and performance of the compressor. One or two winterizing jobs and it will pay for itself.

In fact today I was glad I had it with me. As I was checking the trailer tires I found one where the valve stem was loose and the tire went down to 25 PSI before I could get my valve tool out to tighten the valve. I would recommend everyone add a complete tire repair kit to their tool box.

The main feature I prefer for both winterizing and tire inflation is the automatic shut off.

You can build up pressure in the long hose so that you can leave a tap open and then press the trigger to release a strong puff of air to push the water out of the line, whereas a smaller, non-automatic unit may not have enough airflow to blow out the line.

When inflating tires you can move from tire to tire without having to go back and shut of the compressor between tires. It also has an air pressure gauge on the chuck to see how much air is in the tire.

The VIAR 450P has a 100% duty cycle which means it can run continuously. I need this for airing up my Jeep tires after they have been aired down to 12-18 PSI for off roading. (BTW, I am going on the dunes at Silver Lake SP this week.)

[OTRA15]

Well said. If one compares the specs for the two different models, the 450's price pays for itself over time IMO. The 100% duty cycle on its own is worth it (but limited to 40 minutes total "on" time I believe, before a rest is needed).

[Cispook]

I have to say "I've consumed the kook-aide". Ordered one today.


2017 27FB FC

[CamanoIsland]

I am going to buy a compressor for this purpose. Is there a model that runs automatically at 40 psi as you suggest for winterizing by yourself?

[kdickinson]

To sustain air pressure for the time required to properly winterize you need a 33 gallon compressor. That size is still relatively easy to move around and can be used for other projects like painting and using air powered tools. The brand is probably less important than the capacity and price.

[Rich W]

Originally Posted by CamanoIsland

I am going to buy a compressor for this purpose. Is there a model that runs automatically at 40 psi as you suggest for winterizing by yourself?

Are you asking about a portable, take-along unit or something for the house? For portable, there's been many recommendations for the VIAIR pumps or the Harbor Freight version.

I've been using my 3-gallon Sears compressor for winterizing. I open one spigot at a time, hot, then cold, pumping air into the city water inlet Shrader valve. (drain low points and water heater first, then close low points and switch the water heater bypass) When I come back from Florida early I've just pumped the pink stuff in after just draining and haven't had any problems. I store mine outside and we've had single digit temps.

I think if you don't want to use the pink stuff, just have dry pipes, you'll need a large tank.

[OTRA15]

For "Winterizing on the Road" -- the topic here -- the Viarr 450 seems like the best bet, albeit expensive, as it has many features and runs on 12 volt electricity. A 100% duty cycle is huge, and the automatic shut-off is great, but as discussed an inline regulator would be a good addition IMO, as the unit's >100 PSI air pressure will burst pipes if one is not careful. [See Post #39 and following posts]

[JCWDCW]

I just finished winterizing with my 5 gallon AC. I set it to 50 psi, connected using an air adapter on the water inlet. The adapter only has a 1/16 inch hole to prevent ripping the piping and rubber seats on the taps with excess air volumes. I bypassed the water heater, drained it and opened low point drains. I previously drained the water tank. Using the air I blew out the low points and then closed them and blew out taps, shower and toilet (remember the spray head). Set the water pump to draw air from the antifreeze connection, made sure the filter was drained and ran the pump for a few seconds til I could be sure it wasn't pushing any water. Then I opened the low points and blew them out again. Left all the taps and low points open. ...done in less than 30 minutes including running hose from the basement where the AC is located.
Last thing was to pour a cup of antifreeze into each trap and about a quart into the Black Water tank via the toilet.

The trick as noted many times above is to let the pressure build up then open a tap on Hot; repeat on Cold. 50 psi was plenty. I have actually done this using a 12V compressor in the past...just takes a litter longer.
JCW

[Moflash]

I have been using portable jumpbox air compressor combo purchased at Sams Club ($55) for the last 6 years and it works great.Its small,lightweight and goes with us on every trip.


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