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Old 12-24-2009, 04:35 PM   #1
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2007 28' International CCD
Apalachicola , Florida
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 8
Unhappy Winterizing in the Texas Hill Country

Hello and Happy Holidays to all:

I am new to this winterizing thing and I have a 2007 28' International and I need a little clarification with the procedure. The weather calls for freezing temps for the next couple of nights and I'm getting nervous. I have read the Airstream manual section on winterizing and I'm a little confused. The tanks are drained, but what about the water heater? I know I need to unscrew the nylon plug on the water heater, but what is all this jazz about the water heater by-pass valves?

Also, to I really need to disconnect the my deep cycle batteries? How about removing the "outlet hose from the water pump"? "Disconnect the water pump inlet connection" (this looks complicated)?

Do I need to blow compressed air into the lines if I'm going to put anti-freeze in the freshwater, grey water, and black water lines?

HELP! Thanks y'all!
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Old 12-24-2009, 05:40 PM   #2
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2008 20' Safari SE
Thumb Area , Michigan
Join Date: Dec 2005
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You do not what to put RV antifreeze in the fresh water tank. I would suggest that you have a RV Pump Converter Winterizing Kit installed so that you can suction RV antifreeze directly into the water pump. Read the instruction in your Airstream manual to find the hot water by pass valves. You may want to make a detailed checklist because forgetting to do it right can cost a lot of money. I include my checklist for the 20” Safari SE as an example:
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2007 GMC 1/2 ton Sierra ARE Cap
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Old 12-24-2009, 08:53 PM   #3
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2018 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Austin (Hays County) , Texas
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Not too hard to do

I'm just 40 miles from you and here's what I have been doing for the last 10 years. My trailer is in storage east of Dripping Springs.

I open the 3 bottom drains and let the lines and the fresh tank drain. In the mean time, I pull the plug on the water heater and let it drain. Then I replace the plug, close the bottom drains, and blow out the lines by opening one faucet at a time. Don't forget the shower. In Classics, open the outside faucet, as well.

When all lines are clear, pour a generous amount of the pink RV antifreeze in each sink trap and in the shower trap. The shower trap is the most critical since it would be a bear to replace if it cracked.

I disconnect the input to the water pump and shake the water out of the filter. Then I run the pump for a few seconds. To disconnect the input, press in and turn. There are plastic "wings" to make it easy to grasp the input. You should clean and inspect the filter once in a while, anyway, so this accomplishes that.

I don't disconnect my batteries, but I would recharge them periodically. If you can't recharge them once in a while, then remove them and store them in a warmer place.

All this takes me less than 1/2 hour. I have never had a freeze problem. My trailer has AC power in storage . I leave the heat pump on and set to 40 degrees in my Classic but power could always go off in an ice storm.
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