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Old 10-15-2010, 10:40 PM   #1
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2010 28' International
HiGhlands Ranch , Rockies
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Winterizing Help

I am a newbie and I need some help. Can you tell me how to pump in the RV antifreeze. I have seen several different posts, but no clear direction on how it is done. I am assuming that I need to go the RV store to get a pump?

Also, does anyone have a picture of what a Camco water heater bypass looks like. Are they easy to install. Does anyone have a link to instructions on how to install a HW heater bypass?

Finally, do I need to pump in enough antifreeze so that it comes out the faucets even if I blow out the lines with air compressor?

Thank you very much for the help!
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Old 10-16-2010, 02:51 AM   #2
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Coloradoair your trailer already has a water pump. Use the water pump to pump in the antifreeze. Your trailer may already have a hose connected to the water pump which is inserted into the bottle of antifreeze. If not disconnect the input line from the water pump and attach a long enough piece to put into the antifreeze jug.
1) drain the fresh water tank
2) drain the water heater.
3)drain and rinse all waste tanks(grey and black water)
4) install water heater bypass kit or if already installed close valves at input and output points to water heater. Open bypass valve allowing antifreeze to pass from the cold lines to the hot lines.
5) connect line to input of water pump and insert into antifreeze jug
6)turn on water pump. open one tap at a time until antifeeze flows out and close. continue to do this at each tap both hot and cold. (kitchen sink, bathroom sink,shower and toilet, if your toilet has the spray wand clear it as well.You may also have low point drain valves do these as well.
7) open each valve at input and output of water heater briefly to clear each valve of water.
8) lastly you need to clear the city water connection of any water. This requires two people to do. turn off water pump and open any tap to release the pressure in the lines. One person goes outside to the city water connection. Remove the little screen washer. You will see a small stem in there. Gently push in on this stem. This will open the check or one way valve. While you hold open this check valve have the second person turn on the water pump. Once antifreeze is seen coming out(2 seconds) turn off the pump. Then release the check valve and reinsert the small screen washer. It is important that you do not open or close the check valve with pressure in the lines. If you do so a small o ring inside that valve will come off and the connection will leak when using the water pump and not city water.
9) drain waste tanks again to remove any water now there. Close waste valves
10) disconnect the line installed at the water pump for antifreeze or close valve already installed(if equipped) and pour antifreeze down all sink and shower drains.
11) Make sure there is sufficient antifreeze in waste tanks to keep waste valves wet with antifreeze and leave a little antifreeze in toilet to keep it protected as well.
12) use an old towel to dry up any antifreeze in sinks and shower. It will stain plastic if allowed to sit and evaporate.
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:43 PM   #3
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Thanks Wasagachris for the help. I am struggling with trying to determine with the intake for the water pump so that I can pump the RV antifreeze in. Can you you help me identify this by the attached picture. My manuals are no help here at all.
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Old 10-16-2010, 09:54 PM   #4
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hi Coloradoair. That's a pretty tight fit in there. The input line is the one at the rear of the picture. It has the inline filter on it. You should see that line coming from the fresh water tank. It looks like you do not already have a winterizing hose and valve attached to the punp. You will have to remove the input line and attach your own hose to insert into the antifreeze bottle. Go to an RV outlet and buy a fitting like the one attached to the pump and a section of hose(2-3ft) and make your own hose.
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:10 PM   #5
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Wasagachris - You are correct. I don't have anything attached to the pump and there is alot going on down there. I could not remove the floor from the closet, which created minimal space. Can you tell me what inline filter looks like?

One other question. Can you point me to the direction of the hot water heater bypass. The manual suggests that it is rough the same location. Picture from the manual is attached.
Thank you very much for the help!!
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Old 10-16-2010, 10:19 PM   #6
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Pic of Hot Water Line

Here is the picture of the manual and where it suggests that the hot water heater bypass is located.
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Old 10-17-2010, 12:47 AM   #7
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The inline filter is that black Tee shaped thing with the clear plastic dome on top.
I don't know where the water heater is in your unit. The bypass valves are located on the back of the water heater itself. You must be able to locate the access door of the water heater on the outside of the trailer. This will tell you where the heater is located in your trailer. Look inside at the same location and there must be an interior access point inside a closet or under a bed or some place similar. To winterize close valves A & C and open valve B. Valves A & C are the ones I mentioned in steps #4 & 7.
By the way when you find the exterior access door of the water heater open in and look at the bottom of the heater and you will find the drain plug for the heater. Before unscrewing it to drain locate the pressure relief valve in the middle of the heater. There is a small handle which is lifted up to release the pressure in the tank. Lift it first before unscrewing the drain plug. This releases the pressure in the tank and the water will start to drain more slowly once you unscrew the drain plug. Once the plug is removed you can open the pressure relief valve again to allow air into the heater and the water will drain out much quicker.
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:23 AM   #8
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Is antifreeze necessary if you do a thorough job blowing the system out?
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Old 10-17-2010, 07:47 AM   #9
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I have never trusted using air to blow out a trailer. If the air pressure is to high you can damage your water system and sometimes using air you just push the water somewhere in the system which will freeze and damage the system. How do you intend to blow the water out backwards through the water pump. It can't be done. If you spend 15 mins. installing a TEE valve and extra winterizing line at the water pump and have a bypass kit on the water heater you can properly winterize your trailer in another 15 mins. One dealership I worked at rented motorhomes and I used to winterize 650 M/H's every year with no problems. I would take about one month to do them all averaging 30 per day on an eight hour day.
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Old 10-17-2010, 09:21 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coloradoair View Post
Wasagachris - You are correct. I don't have anything attached to the pump and there is alot going on down there. I could not remove the floor from the closet, which created minimal space. Can you tell me what inline filter looks like?

One other question. Can you point me to the direction of the hot water heater bypass. The manual suggests that it is rough the same location. Picture from the manual is attached.
Thank you very much for the help!!
Hi - I am not sure about your specific model but on my 08 23 fb se, the water heater bypass was in the small cabinet under the closet by the full bed.

I watched my dealer winterized my unit and before they hooked up antifreeze to the water pump inlet, they ran the pump on each faucet to draw water out of the lines since my fw tank was empty.

Good luck!

Sandy
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