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Old 10-25-2009, 05:59 PM   #1
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2009 25' FB Flying Cloud
Dade City , Florida
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Winterizing Flying Cloud

We have a 2009 FB Flying Cloud. I started to winterize and found he positioning of the water pump very difficult for pumping anti-freeze into the system as I have done on our "69 Globe Trotter. The manual says to blow the system out with air pressure. Can I get enough air pressure with a rented air compressor? Do I need to worry about too much? What type of adaptor do I need to purchase to go into the street water connection from the compressor? If I am able to do this and then put some anti-freeze into the traps as indicated in the manual, will I be okay for a Maine Winter or do I need to do both? Appreciate any help on this. Thank you.
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Old 10-25-2009, 07:27 PM   #2
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2008 20' Safari SE
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Winterizing

Quote:
Originally Posted by dbaur View Post
We have a 2009 FB Flying Cloud. I started to winterize and found he positioning of the water pump very difficult for pumping anti-freeze into the system as I have done on our "69 Globe Trotter. The manual says to blow the system out with air pressure. Can I get enough air pressure with a rented air compressor? Do I need to worry about too much? What type of adaptor do I need to purchase to go into the street water connection from the compressor? If I am able to do this and then put some anti-freeze into the traps as indicated in the manual, will I be okay for a Maine Winter or do I need to do both? Appreciate any help on this. Thank you.
I use a combination of compressed air and RV anti-freeze to be sure I prevent damage to the plumbing in the cold weather we experience in Michigan. You have two choices for hooking up the air compressor to your city water filler on the trailer. Both screw into the city water filler valve. The one on the left requires DW or someone else to hold the tire inflater tool on the compressor hose onto the fitting, while you do the winterizing. The other one, on the right, allows you to attach the air hose to the coupler and set the pressure on the compresser at 45 psi and go about winterizing by yourself.

You use a standard coupler and an adaptor to fasten the coupler to the brass fitting which has standard male hose threads at both ends and one end is threaded on the inside. I bought it at a big Do It Best hardware store in their hose parts section. They may have to look it up in their book and special order it for you as not all hardware stores keep it in stock.
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Old 10-25-2009, 08:39 PM   #3
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2007 25' Safari FB SE
North/East , New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbaur View Post
We have a 2009 FB Flying Cloud. I started to winterize and found he positioning of the water pump very difficult for pumping anti-freeze into the system as I have done on our "69 Globe Trotter. The manual says to blow the system out with air pressure. Can I get enough air pressure with a rented air compressor? Do I need to worry about too much? What type of adaptor do I need to purchase to go into the street water connection from the compressor? If I am able to do this and then put some anti-freeze into the traps as indicated in the manual, will I be okay for a Maine Winter or do I need to do both? Appreciate any help on this. Thank you.
dbauar...I drain my water heater, put a 1/2 gallon of antifreeze into it and then close the bypass valves. I use a small Sears compressor ($100) to blow out the fresh water from the system and I then pump RV antifreeze through the fresh water system via a tee fitting I put in the feed line to the water pump. I then blow out the antifreeze as I'm concerned that it will freeze if left in the system. If you look at the labeling of the typical -50F pink RV/Boat antifreeze you will see that it freezes between +12F to +16F. The -50F rating is for "burst" protection for cooper pipe, the "burst" protection for PVC pipe is -10F. To get good "freeze" protection (-58F to -63F) you have to use the -100F rated antifreez which costs $10.00 gallon. I'm going to use the -100F in all of my sink traps. When blowing out the system with air I would limit my pressure to 40-45 psi so you don't damage your system. Good luck.
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Old 10-25-2009, 09:21 PM   #4
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For years Airstream has put the water pump is a nearly inaccessible place in many models. Ours is under the wardrobe. It was originally mounted so the filter was in the back and impossible to clean out. I had the pump moved to the front of the compartment and turned around with a bypass kit included. I bought the kit, but I complained so much the pump was moved for free. That was 1 1/2 years ago, but the factory still puts it in the same dumb place.

If you move the pump, or have someone else do it, have it mounted on a rubber mat to reduce the noise. If you use the pump bypass kit, you can pump antifreeze through the system without getting it in the potable water tank.

Be sure to blow out the toilet feed and the sink sprayer and get some antifreeze through it. Easy to miss (as is the outside shower) and they break easy.

2da', didn't know about two grades of RV antifreeze. What's the burst temp for the Pex plumbing?

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Old 10-25-2009, 09:43 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by CrawfordGene View Post
For years Airstream has put the water pump is a nearly inaccessible place in many models. Ours is under the wardrobe. It was originally mounted so the filter was in the back and impossible to clean out. I had the pump moved to the front of the compartment and turned around with a bypass kit included. I bought the kit, but I complained so much the pump was moved for free. That was 1 1/2 years ago, but the factory still puts it in the same dumb place.

If you move the pump, or have someone else do it, have it mounted on a rubber mat to reduce the noise. If you use the pump bypass kit, you can pump antifreeze through the system without getting it in the potable water tank.

Be sure to blow out the toilet feed and the sink sprayer and get some antifreeze through it. Easy to miss (as is the outside shower) and they break easy.

2da', didn't know about two grades of RV antifreeze. What's the burst temp for the Pex plumbing?

Gene
Gene

I've never seen a "burst" temp for the Pex fittings on any of the antifreeze containers. Many of the brands don't provide you with any details other than the burst protection for copper pipe. That's why I always blow the antifreeze out of the system. West Marine has another antifreeze rated at -60F. It offers freeze protection to +7 to +10F, copper pipe burst protection to -60F and PVC burst protection to -26F. It's hard to understand how they can market this stuff to boat owners and rate it for copper pipe as most boats for the past 26+ years have been using Pex or a similar plastic piping for their fresh water systems.
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Old 11-10-2010, 06:44 PM   #6
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2009 19' Flying Cloud
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Noodling around in my local RV store I came across a kit that allows for pumping of anti-freeze into your fresh water tank and then all you do is turn on the pump and run thru the system as opposed to hooking up the line to the pump which can be problematic. The kit was $20 and simply put a line into the gallon of anti freeze and you had a plunger type pump. Simply quick and easy. I come from many other RV types and have always added the line to the intake side of the pump, but sometimes it seemed to create a loud pump for then on.

JMTCents Rando
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