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Old 10-09-2009, 09:08 AM   #29
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Some members report the taste takes a long time to go away or never does. Others say it can be quickly purged. I think different brands give different results.

Do not put it in your potable water tank if you can avoid it—put it through the water lines from the water pump using a kit that can be bought at RV stores or online. I have put it in the water tank before I had the kit. After thoroughly flushing in the spring, there was no taste. Buy a name brand RV antifreeze and you stand a better chance of getting a tasteless one.

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Old 10-09-2009, 09:37 AM   #30
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Just heading out on our last trip of the season, and will winterize at the campsite. I have it down pretty good, but I have always wondered about one step that I haven't seen mentioned.

After run antifreeze through everything to get all the water out, do you close of the back end lower value in the boot? or do you let it sit over the winter full of antifreeze or let whatever can empty out (ie drive home with the back valve open.

And, do you completely empty all antifreeze from the graywater tank or let it sit in the tank all winter?
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Old 10-09-2009, 09:53 AM   #31
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Antifreeze is real foamy; even moreso after run through the aerator on a faucet spout. It usually takes a couple spring weekend trips before I see that go away.

Dave - boot? Is that the bumper compartment? I'm not sure how 19-footers are set up for drain valves, etc. Filling the P-traps will push water & antifreeze into the gray tank. I ignore that and leave it in there all winter. No amount of rocking will get the last layer of water out of the gray or fresh tank anyway. Half an inch or so of water along the edge of a tank isn't going to do any damage. Draining antifreeze to the ground is a no-no in most places.
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Old 10-09-2009, 09:59 AM   #32
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Antifreeze is real foamy; even moreso after run through the aerator on a faucet spout. It usually takes a couple spring weekend trips before I see that go away.

Dave - boot? Is that the bumper compartment? I'm not sure how 19-footers are set up for drain valves, etc. Filling the P-traps will push water & antifreeze into the gray tank. I ignore that and leave it in there all winter. No amount of rocking will get the last layer of water out of the gray or fresh tank anyway. Half an inch or so of water along the edge of a tank isn't going to do any damage. Draining antifreeze to the ground is a no-no in most places.
In the Bambi's (recent anyways) the heater bypass drains to a value in the back bumber compartment.

Guess the question could be simplified by saying "as a rule to you fill lines with anti-freeze and leave it there, or leave the values open to drain whatever will drain out. I have in the past raised/lowered the front jack to empty what I can of the remaining antifreeze. I use a pail to capture anything that leaves the trailer (unless it is pure water).
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Old 10-09-2009, 01:48 PM   #33
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I have the Camco bypass valve installed. I individually blow out every faucet and both showers (hot & cold sides). My little compressor does better if I open them one at a time. The last compressor step is blowing down the main drain. Everything is closed up and antifreeze pumped one by one to every outlet in the system (except the HW heater). Without water in the system the antifreeze is diluted very little and I catch it in a pot before it goes down the drain. The captured antifreeze is reused until I've done every spigot. Don't forget the toilet. Then I turn the pump off, open every spigot, and then open the main drain over a bucket until it is reasonably drained. So I haven't felt it necessary to leave the plumbing flooded over the winter. A local garage accepts the used antifreeze for recycling. I usually have 2 gallons of antifreeze standing by and don't quite use it all. I use solid glugs of antifreeze to push the water out of the P-traps -- that is what ends up in my gray tank ... plus the wash-through in spring. Not much way to get rid of that except at a campground dump station.

And I drain the HW heater externally thru its own drain plug.

A good friend has a 2008 23' International Signature Series. The pump is under the small wardrobe. There's not enough room in there to move the pump sideways to install the Camco valve. Though I would probably puzzle through it if it were mine. Not too excited about doing somebody else's surgery in front of them...

Before winterizing be sure to remove any filter cartridge if your kitchen faucet has one. The antifreeze will ruin the activated charcoal. I don't put this back in until after the 2nd or 3rd camping trip in the spring.
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Old 10-11-2009, 07:10 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CanoeStream View Post
I have the Camco bypass valve installed. I individually blow out every faucet and both showers (hot & cold sides). My little compressor does better if I open them one at a time. The last compressor step is blowing down the main drain. Everything is closed up and antifreeze pumped one by one to every outlet in the system (except the HW heater). Without water in the system the antifreeze is diluted very little and I catch it in a pot before it goes down the drain. The captured antifreeze is reused until I've done every spigot. Don't forget the toilet. Then I turn the pump off, open every spigot, and then open the main drain over a bucket until it is reasonably drained. So I haven't felt it necessary to leave the plumbing flooded over the winter. A local garage accepts the used antifreeze for recycling. I usually have 2 gallons of antifreeze standing by and don't quite use it all. I use solid glugs of antifreeze to push the water out of the P-traps -- that is what ends up in my gray tank ... plus the wash-through in spring. Not much way to get rid of that except at a campground dump station.

And I drain the HW heater externally thru its own drain plug.

A good friend has a 2008 23' International Signature Series. The pump is under the small wardrobe. There's not enough room in there to move the pump sideways to install the Camco valve. Though I would probably puzzle through it if it were mine. Not too excited about doing somebody else's surgery in front of them...

Before winterizing be sure to remove any filter cartridge if your kitchen faucet has one. The antifreeze will ruin the activated charcoal. I don't put this back in until after the 2nd or 3rd camping trip in the spring.
Hi Bob,
I sent a PM asking almost these same questions about our particular floor model.

1. WHERE is the pump and how can we access it to put in the bypass valve?

2. What is the "main drain" you open with a bucket under it?

3. What is a P-trap?

I already drained the HW heater today. I've completed one step right?

Thanks,
Teresa
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Old 10-11-2009, 08:05 PM   #35
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Underneath the large wardrobe is a panel with a heat register. It will open. The hinge is on the left. Takes a little work to get it open. The pump is in back of the duct and not particularly easy to access. It's best to move it forward and turn it so you can get to the filter and clean it. You will need to extend the pipes to it and then can install the bypass kit. You may want to have an RV shop do this.

A P trap is under a sink—the drain pipe that looks like a P on its side and holds water to prevent sewer gas from coming into a room.

Main drain: between and behind the wheels on the street side there are 3 drains—one larger one for the fresh water tank and two smaller ones to the left for the pipes. There's also one under and a little forward of the water heater; it is opened with a valve under 3 water heater bypass valves.

Things change from time to time, so things may be a little different. in your '07.

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Old 10-11-2009, 09:09 PM   #36
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P-traps are the U shaped water-filled pipes under any sink. They prevent gray tank or sewer odors from coming up through the sink. There is also one under your shower drain. So... 3 overall for your coach: below the kitchen sink (only one for the 2 sinks), bathroom sink & shower drain.

Get on your knees and open the cabinets under the kitchen & bathroom sinks -- you can see the P-traps directly. Trust me ... there is one under the shower drain too. Guessing about the volume in the trap, I'd guess 2 cups poured in rapidly would force out the water and replace it with antifreeze.
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Old 10-11-2009, 09:17 PM   #37
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Gene - the main drain she was asking me about is the water system drain that empties the pipes out the bottom of the bellywrap. Teresa is posting in a couple areas -- I address the main drain valve question here.

And yes, it's also important to open all drains under the fresh water tank as you mention.
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Old 10-11-2009, 10:50 PM   #38
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The question is can you winterize without blowing out the lines and the answer is YES.

There are several ways one easy way is to buy a kit from a camping store to use your water pump that pulls water straight out of the bottle and pumps the lines full of the pink stuff this method requires easy access to the water pump.

Another way once you have everything required is a piece of cake every year from now on.

Parts required;

1. cheap bilge pump from WalMart or boat supply store.
the pumps that hook up to a garden hose is best but not mandatory.
2. Short garden hose or make up your own about 5 ft.
3. Bucket 3 gal or better.
4. 2 gallons RV anti freeze.
5. 14 gage wire that will reach from battery to city water inlet.

To winterize;

Drain all lines, water heater and fresh water tank, set the hot water tank bypass to bypass.

Turn on RV water pump and hold toilet valve open until no water comes out turn off pump.

Connect the short garden hose to the pump and to the RV city water inlet.

Poor 2 gal of antifreeze into bucket put the pump in the bucket and hook up the pump.

Go inside and open all faucets one at a time hot & cold, flush the toilet then open the shower handle.

Once everything has plenty of pink fluid coming out you are done and you should have antifreeze in the drains.

* Optional...Open all drains and drain antifreeze set water heater bypass back to normal close all drain lines and you are good to go next year by just flushing out the faucets.

Save everything in the bucket for next year.

My water pump in SOB RV was very hard to get to so I came up with the bilge pump idea very fast, very easy.

As for the RV water pump not having antifreeze pumped through it the impeller is made out of rubber and I have never had a problem with a pump bursting with temperatures down to 15 degrees.

OR

Put a few gallons of antifreeze in the fresh water tank and pump it through the system. Flush it out in the spring.
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Old 10-11-2009, 10:56 PM   #39
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Gene - the main drain she was asking me about is the water system drain that empties the pipes out the bottom of the bellywrap. Teresa is posting in a couple areas -- I address the main drain valve question here.

And yes, it's also important to open all drains under the fresh water tank as you mention.
Bob you are a wonderful moderator with mad linking skills! Gene - I knew there was one drain for the fresh water between the wheel well on the roadside. It is white plastic and we turn it to drain that tank. I'll have to shinny under there in the morning to see the pipe drains.

Off to bed. My head is spinning.
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Old 10-12-2009, 01:12 AM   #40
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Here's a few sort of related thoughts: 1) Snowmaking at ski areas: The snowmakers always blow out their snowmaking water lines until no more fog comes out. The lines will look like they are empty, but the water will drain back down and collect in the low spots and freeze and bust their pipes. (Same can happen in our A/S) Still need some type of antifreeze sent through the system in the A/S even if you blow them out.
2) A/S make poor snowboards, unless you get the wheels up. Pink snow doesn't always mean they used antifreeze on the slopes. They do use salt on the ski slopes at certain times.
3) Everyone needs an aircompressor eventually when you have that one annoying tire to pump up before your trip to the slopes, or repressurize your skins after sand burrowing, (Lower tire pressure sometimes can get you through soft sand, snow, or mud), or you want to pressure up the potato gun, or blow out some playa dust. The hardware stores sometimes have a special on those little donut compressors, one works for me.
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Old 10-13-2009, 11:02 PM   #41
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We'll winterized for another season.

Made the same mistake as last year. Had the front value next to the fresh water drain value open and lost some antifreeze before I noticed when I turned on the pump... oops.

I also ended up somehow with raw hands at the end of it all and my hands looked like they were burnt since I spilled some on my hands! I didn't think RV antifreeze was something hazardous to handle.. wasn't in the past.. maybe its the brand I used this year? Polar RV Antifreeze. Found this report... RV ANTIFREEZE

Warning to others! I had not seen or read anything about pink antifreeze being a hazard to handle!
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Old 11-30-2009, 09:36 PM   #42
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It is suppose to go into the mid 20's Saturday night from the upper 40's during the day and return to the upper 40's on Sunday. Will I be safe with an electric heater (Vornado) with the cabinet doors open to expose the water pipes or should I also have the furnace on for the night?
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