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Old 10-18-2011, 10:22 AM   #15
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DMT - I remember how sore my neck got the first time I installed the Camco bypass. Yes, use the quick-disconnect & remove the access door. You'll want to disconnect the heating duct and turn it back under the fridge. You will have to move the pump forward to allow space in-line for the bypass valve. Be happy you don't have a 23' International like my buddy -- he had half the space and the back end of the pump is under the fridge -- with no access panel at the bottom of the fridge!

Per john hd's recommendations (and many since) I blew out my lines yesterday before I'll do the antifreeze step in the next day or so. It would really help you if got one of these handy fittings to attach an air compressor to your city water inlet -- Winterize Manufacturing Adapter | Streaming Daemon . Careful though -- be sure & dial down your compressor to 40 psi. Give the compressor enough time as you go back and forth to one outlet at a time -- you can blow out just about all water residuals. Be sure to isolate your water heater before blowing out or pumping in antifreeze -- set the bypass valves to the winter position to do this:
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Originally Posted by masseyfarm View Post
It should not get that cold there by the water?
Ohh, I'd think so -- Statistics: Logy Bay-Middle Cove-Outer Cove, Newfoundland and Labrador - The Weather Network

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Originally Posted by COUNTRYSONG View Post
I agree with the three arm monkey thing--- I do one additional thing -- Maybe not neccessary, but it makes me feel better - I dump at least 2 gallons of antifreeze in each -- the grey and black tank -- plus what ever I have pumped in there while filling the lines --- antifreeze is cheap -- labor and parts in JC is not.
More than anything, make sure that the traps receive a solid enough slug of antifreeze to flush trap contents down to the gray tank.

I drain the HW heater through its drain plug. The HW heater's tank is very strong and can't really be damaged by a quarter or half inch of residual water left after the process. By the same reasoning, the gray & black tanks are quite rugged structures to carry their loads while bumping down the road. Consensus from many members is that an inch+ of water in them won't damage these either.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:55 AM   #16
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Lightbulb A simpler method

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Originally Posted by CanoeStream View Post
DMT - I remember how sore my neck got the first time I installed the Camco bypass. Yes, use the quick-disconnect & remove the access door. You'll want to disconnect the heating duct and turn it back under the fridge. You will have to move the pump forward to allow space in-line for the bypass valve. Be happy you don't have a 23' International like my buddy -- he had half the space and the back end of the pump is under the fridge -- with no access panel at the bottom of the fridge!
Speaking of my buddy... His dealer used a simpler solution with one flexible plumbing hose. They used two short flexible plumbing hoses from Home Depot. Attach one to the house plumbing against the wall behind the pump. Attach the other to the inlet valve on the pump. Pigtail the hoses around and install the brass Camco bypass valve between the two hoses.

Correction: The dealer connected the hose to the house plumbing. They installed the Camco valve on the water pump intake and attached the other end of the hose to the Camco valve. Worth considering at least.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:06 AM   #17
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My Classic 25 had a hinged wardrobe floor that made water pump access easy. My Classic 28 has a fixed floor. Access to the water pump meant removing the small drawer under the wardrobe, laying on my belly on the floor, and reaching blindly with my left hand for the pump filter.

My solution was installing a 12" sailboat deck plate on the wardrobe floor. I now can simply remove the plate for easy visual and manual access to the pump. A bonus is access to wiring and furnace ducts under the wardrobe.

Since I seldom use the trailer when it gets below freezing here in Texas, I keep the furnace duct that dumps hot air into the tank area plugged up with an old T-shirt so that the trailer interior gets all of the furnace output. It is easy to unplug the duct if I ever get a cold night.
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:27 AM   #18
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Not to start a whole debate, but on 5 trailers across several brands, including two AS trailers, I have never added antifreeze to my plumbing. I have only ever drained and bypassed the water heater, and then blown out the plumbing. Maybe I am just lucky but have never had a problem.

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Old 10-18-2011, 12:58 PM   #19
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Just dump the AF in the empty FW tank and suck it thru the pump and all faucets from there....simple.

Bob
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Old 10-18-2011, 04:26 PM   #20
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After the diagram from CanoeStream I have to go back and look at what I did. Don't remember seeing isolation valves at the HW tank. I'll take to heart the comments on removing the flexible duct (really gets in the way) and using the flexible plumbing lines as pigtails when I install the winterizing kit next year.

Bob - I've read of people having trouble getting all the antifreeze out of the fresh water tank in the spring. Have you had any issues? Can you describe the RCM method?

And yes it gets cold here, relatively speaking. Only about -5 C or so, nothing like the interior of the continent. We lived for several years in Houston and I enjoyed the winters there, the mid summer not so much.

You folks should visit here sometime. Very pretty, sparsely populated, virtually no crime. I know of two other Airstreams in the whole province (500k population) - one a 70's or 80's Classic and the other a late model International 23. I can't go anywhere without everybody knowing and commenting - the trailer stands out. People come up to me at gas stations for heavens sake, and a half the time I'm giving tours at campsites. One guy even knocked on my door because he saw it in the driveway. (he was a lawyer by the way - strange breed) AS should compensate me come to think of it. There's a WBCCI caravan here about every two years - The Viking Trail. Check it out.

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Old 10-18-2011, 04:57 PM   #21
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So this is what I have. The yellow valve is the "bypass" valve. It only isolates cold water supply to the hot water tank. The silver valve with no handle is obviously a three-way pilot operated valve. When sensing pressure from the tank hot water outlet it shuttles to allow hot water to flow out to the hot water lines. If there is no hot water pressure (like when the "bypass" valve is closed) it allows cold water to flow from the supply to the hot water lines, effectively bypassing the hot water tank.

This valve probably cost 4x as much as two isolation valves, but half the labour to install. Wonder if they saved any money. Wonder if will last as long.
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Old 10-18-2011, 09:54 PM   #22
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DMT, now that is a different look! I was going on the assumption that there was access through a storage compartment just forward of the HWH like it is on 25' FB units. Checking 27' FB International & Flying Cloud pics at Colonial Airstream, I stand corrected. I'd better leave specific settings to someone who owns this type of HWH setup. You still want to isolate it before you blow out and certainly before you attempt to fill it up with 6 gallons of RV antifreeze.

Don't forget to treat the low point drain as another faucet as you go through your sequence of blowing out each area. This year I'm pretty close to jdalrymple's method of blowing out only -- but you have to be patient going between hot & cold at each faucet/shower/toilet outlet until you don't even blow out any mist. My compressor was attached to the city water intake for 30-45 minutes as I got the plumbing progressively cleared out.

If your kitchen faucet has a filter, be sure to remove it before using any RV antifreeze. Antifreeze will ruin the activated carbon filter element. Reinstall it next spring after your system is completely purged with fresh water.

Viscous RV antifreeze is difficult to rinse out of fresh water tanks in my opinion. Even with it only in the PEX tubing, I find that it'll be the 2nd or 3rd spring trip before water from the taps stops foaming. (I carry gallons of drinking water anyway)

An unrelated point -- draining RV antifreeze to the ground is probably illegal in most areas. A small quantity made its way to the edge of my driveway once. Boy, did that kill grass!
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Old 10-21-2011, 04:53 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMT View Post
After the diagram from CanoeStream I have to go back and look at what I did. Don't remember seeing isolation valves at the HW tank. I'll take to heart the comments on removing the flexible duct (really gets in the way) and using the flexible plumbing lines as pigtails when I install the winterizing kit next year.

Bob - I've read of people having trouble getting all the antifreeze out of the fresh water tank in the spring. Have you had any issues? Can you describe the RCM method?

And yes it gets cold here, relatively speaking. Only about -5 C or so, nothing like the interior of the continent. We lived for several years in Houston and I enjoyed the winters there, the mid summer not so much.

You folks should visit here sometime. Very pretty, sparsely populated, virtually no crime. I know of two other Airstreams in the whole province (500k population) - one a 70's or 80's Classic and the other a late model International 23. I can't go anywhere without everybody knowing and commenting - the trailer stands out. People come up to me at gas stations for heavens sake, and a half the time I'm giving tours at campsites. One guy even knocked on my door because he saw it in the driveway. (he was a lawyer by the way - strange breed) AS should compensate me come to think of it. There's a WBCCI caravan here about every two years - The Viking Trail. Check it out.

Don
Don,

Been away for a few daze...

Here is is a link to a really good Winterizing thread...(my procedure), along with some good tips from others.

It do take some extra flushing time come Spring, but for me well worth the effort.
DW does not appreciate how I have re-packed the wardrobe in the past.

Bob
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:05 AM   #24
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DMT,
The little trap door in the wardrobe floor for access is in my opinion just for turning off and on the valve for the outside shower and is good for little else.
To gain better access to the pump and all that is under the wardrobe I took the bottom out and made a large trap door in the floor in addition to the small one AS installed and put the floor back in place.
Bluto- Do you have any pictures of the trap door you built?
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Old 10-26-2011, 11:55 AM   #25
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No, I don't have a picture. It looks just like the original small trap door that Airstream put in the floor of the wardrobe only several times it's size and located over the pump area.
I'll be at my trailer either this evening or Thursday and will get you a couple of pictures and will post them soon.
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:41 PM   #26
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winterizing 27fb

My 09 27fb is equipped with a Moen faucet in the galley that has a filtered drinking water feature. Do not forget to pull the filter (in cabinet under sink) and winterize the connecting tubing. Voice of experience.
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Old 10-29-2011, 05:21 PM   #27
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No, I don't have a picture. It looks just like the original small trap door that Airstream put in the floor of the wardrobe only several times it's size and located over the pump area.
I'll be at my trailer either this evening or Thursday and will get you a couple of pictures and will post them soon.

Woosch,

I tried to send those pix out today thru this site but I couldn't do it. I guess I'm not computer savy enough.
I'll PM you my email address and if you like I'll send them via email instead. That's only if you want the pictures to come via your email address.
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Old 11-17-2011, 04:56 PM   #28
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Valve for outside shower

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DMT,
The little trap door in the wardrobe floor for access is in my opinion just for turning off and on the valve for the outside shower and is good for little else.
To gain better access to the pump and all that is under the wardrobe I took the bottom out and made a large trap door in the floor in addition to the small one AS installed and put the floor back in place.
Checking the pump, or doing any work under there now is a breeze.
I cannot find the valve (2007 Classic 27') for the outside shower. I removed the wardrobe floor and cannot see any valves. Any ideas?
Thanks
Morgan Guy
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